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#16
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I don't know how it is on your car, but on mine the pink pod was accessible once I had the climate control system out. It's way back in there towards the upper right. I am sure there are other pods that were bad, but for some reason that single pod's vacuum had a significant effect on the shifting of the tranny.
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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head |
#17
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What has me puzzled is that, when in stock configuration I had that weird behaviour I mentioned above. I could attach some pictures, but actually, that was the time I discovered a bb in my line to the transmission. I have since fixed that (made shifts so much better). So I will go test the setup I have now and make sure it behaves like you guys say at idle and under throttle. Thanks
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Jackson 1984 300d 223k 1994 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L 88k "She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've added some special modifications myself." -- Han Solo "Would it help if I got out and pushed?" -- Princess Leia |
#18
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Where did you get all those different orifices? The dealer? Thanks and good write-up.
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Seth 1984 300D 225K 1985 300D Donor body 1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!! 1980 300SD 311K My New Baby. 1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo |
#19
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Thanks for providing the part numbers for the various orifices. I typically just swap them out until I get the shift I want.
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Jim |
#20
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Yeah, none of my vents open or close at all... I bet this is the heart of my woes. And probably the fact that the little bushing that are in the black box on the engine head are worn to nubs.
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'90 300SE --- 173k miles --- (Odometer just stopped working!) '85 Cali 300D --- 193500 miles --- (Second one) Sold Nov '10 '82 300TDT --- 236,xxx miles --- (My first one) Sold July '09 |
#21
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Quote:
It applies to you.......as well. |
#22
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critical transmission vacumn adjustment
I thought I might add my experience to this tale. Three years ago I had a remanufactured engine installed in my '82 240D @ 375,000 miles by an independent shop in Madison, WI. The engine was from an MB dealer, and had been shipped from Berlin. I spent a bundle when all was done. But this car was originally for CA with no rust and original paint in good condition, etc. The transmission had been replaced @ 200,000 miles. When I got my car back, the transmission "flared" between gears and the kickdown switch didn't work (as it turned out, a good thing initially for engine break-in). I took the car back to the shop where I had been having it serviced for ten years, and they said I needed a new transmission and that there were no adjustments possible on the transmission. They had already had trouble getting the transmission to shift, didn't know what to do (called me up and asked if I had any manuals!) but finally compared the internal hook-ups in the "black box" to another 240D that came into the garage, getting it to work. But no resolution on the shift flaring. Funny, because it had worked fine with the old engine. I drove it for 5,000 miles manually shifting between gears to avoid the flaring, while trying to decide what to do, and looking for further information.
Thanks to this forum, I read the Brotherton article and others, and called that business in Florida. I was directed to an independent MB mechanic in Des Moines, Iowa. I live in the Madison, WI area, but did not have confidence in the Madison MB dealer, where I previously had a disappointing service experience. I called the mechanic in Des Moines, explained the problem, and he said "I can fix it - I trained on the 240D 20 years ago!" I drove to Des Moines and the mechanic lost no time in quickly fixing it - checking over the vacumn lines and basically adjusting the modulator on the transmission (which I didn't know existed at the time). Cost: $120. I drove home with the transmission shifting better than it had before. Good thing I got a second opinion. The shop in Madison wanted to sell me a rebuilt trans for over $2,000, and I'll never know whether they were aware of the adjustment of the trans or not. I don't go there anymore. I now have 396,000 miles on the car, the engine requires no oil between changes (maybe because of my careful break-in), and the transmission is still working just fine. I still have a problem with confidence in mechanics. I had the engine's first valve adjustment at the Madison MB dealer @ 15,000 miles. The service advisor assured me he had two mechanices qualified for my car. The mechanic was a young man who replaced the old valve cover gasket (none in stock) which now permits a faint oil leak around the cover base; lost the plastic retainer on the throttle for the idle adjustment cable, and left the breather hose from the valve cover disconnected. Maybe I will have to go back to Des Moines for further service...
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DHB |
#23
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I'm back... with a few responses !
"dhbecker" - It sounds to me like by now you should be motivated to roll up your sleeves and do some of this stuff yourself!
"sailor15015" - Yes, the dealer... at least those that I did not have. Your simple "Thanks..." means a lot ! "miner" - If you haven't invested in a " Mighty Vac " yet, do so... for a simple vacuum gage is limited where the hand vacuum pump is so useful testing devices with diaphrams and when looking for leaks in lines you have plugged at the other end. I have raised a few eyebrows driving around with my Mighty Vac wedged between my wipers and windshield! Back on what to look for with your tranny vacuum. First, use a "T" to hook your Mighty Vac to the line just where it leaves the engine compartment and dives down to the tranny OR if you have extra rigid vacuum line sections and connectors, you could even "T-off" and measure the vacuum right were the line enters the vacuum modulator on the tranny. I read this somewhere! What you want to see on your gage is a smooth transition from the first vacuum reading....... all the way down to or at least nearly to "zero". Again, if it does not go down that far, then this is an indication that you need to either: (a) reduce the vacuum back towards the vacuum pump with a smaller orifice [my recommendation] OR (b) increase the "bleeding" effect by adjusting the Vacuum Control Valve [VCV] that sits on your Injection Pump [IP]. I've looked at the inside of three of these and NOT all are adjustible. The PeterSchmid.Com WebSite has 8 pages of instructions on the procedures and special equipment for performing this task! Let us know what your test reveals about how the vacuum fluctuates downward. "scoodidabop " - The last thing you should feel from participating in this FORUM/THREAD is "stupid". The only bad question is the one you fail to ask! I for one will give you all the help I can... either ON the THREAD or OFF if that is warranted! Did you understand Brian's reference to " See post #8 " ? ========================================== You know when I see terms like "pink pod" when talking about what is affectionately referred to as the "Environmental" system... this makes me cring when thinking about tackling this "broken" system on my Son's 300D. But everything in it's own time. At least he has heat and defog/defrost for the front window! Chou, Sam Last edited by Samuel M. Ross; 03-17-2009 at 02:27 AM. |
#24
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ok, so my 80 300SD doesn't have any special doodads that control EGR or ANY emissions control devices, all I have is that little green dashpot on my VCV....
the car was shipped sans emissions control stuff......
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RIP: 80 300SD RIP: 79 450SEL 2002 E430 4matic (212,000km) 2002 ML500 'sport' ____________________________ FACEBOOK: PANZER450 |
#25
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So " Got_The_Benz ", do you have a question?.............
It's a nice photo of your engine compartment. Is that green thingy there your "DashPOT"... aka " Surge Damper " aka " Vacuum Damper "? These are all the different names I have seen used for this vacuum component, and I'm a relative "newbie"!
This brings up a point that has stuck with me as I have had the bad experience of these tranny vacuum control SYSTEMS... namely that there are so many different names being used for the same parts. It's no wonder we often get confused. Thus my strong preference to ask people to first identify the specific diagram or "schematic" from the 30+ different ones at the PeterSchmid.Com WebSite. Do you want to see one that I would not even wish on Brian!? Take a look at this "SCHEMATIC": http://www.peterschmid.com/vacuum/1977_1985/617_95/1985_cal.jpg Yes, this baby is a 1985 model fr#&*!@ing "California" car. Thank God my Father-in-Law's 85 is from Oregon! This vacuum SYSTEM not only has a "DashPot"... it has two of them... and a "SwitchOver Valve, Vacuum Transducer" and OH yes just for giggles, a "SwitchOver Valve, Boost Pressure Aneroid". And what the heck is this foreboding thing they call the " Control Unit ". Is that synonymous with "computer"? The "Deutch" engineers must have just been in the midst of their first crack cocaine party when they designed this “SYSTEM”. I wonder if any of these are still out there and “functioning properly”. Serioiusly, it's no wonder they have gone away from such systems in favor of two and three computers! I challenge anyone to come up with a reference that logically explains what all of these “gizmos” does in the grand scheme of telling the tranny how to shift! I enjoy a good challenge just as many of you do but for a daily driving vehicle my preference a simple non-turbo 240D! Sorry about that "Got_The-Benz"... you deserved better... do you have a question?, Sam Last edited by Samuel M. Ross; 03-17-2009 at 02:27 AM. |
#26
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Uhhh.. not really, just a little curious what the different colored "dashpots" would do for my car...but yeah, we have an 85 SD at my shop, and it also has (or had) two of those green things...
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RIP: 80 300SD RIP: 79 450SEL 2002 E430 4matic (212,000km) 2002 ML500 'sport' ____________________________ FACEBOOK: PANZER450 |
#27
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Actually I like the simplicity of the ' ol dashPots '...
for it's my understanding that they serve much the same purpose as shock absorbers do for our suspension systems... they [dashpost] keep the VCV from bleeding off the "tranny control system's" vacuum too quickly.
Before I experienced my MBZ vacuum system " Epiphany " I was even thinking of putting one under my 240D's hood. But now I've been "reborn"... it's the simple life for me. I'm putting "bebes" [sp?] in any and all vacuum lines I see... and some day I want to see the clean lines of my 616 engine's valve cover with nothing perched on its head ! I'm getting silly... time for me to go ! Sam Last edited by Samuel M. Ross; 03-17-2009 at 02:28 AM. |
#28
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Quote:
Other than a leak in my climate control system, though, I believe mine is functioning properly. It's clearly taken some maintenance, though. Most of the vac parts are new and the car was regularly serviced by the dealer from '92 to about '03. I hope to figure out exactly what all those gizmos do one day. I'll have to know so I can figure out what's wrong when things start breaking down. I'm thinking I might have to write a letter to an old MB engineer, though - if any of them survived their alleged crack addiction, that is. I never thought much about the 'control unit.' Looking at the diagram I'm not sure exactly where it is under the hood. Now I'm curious...research time... P.S., thanks for the info. Jmana!
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Ralph 1985 300D Turbo, CA model 248,650 miles and counting... |
#29
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Sure, anytime! Just let me know if it helps your shifting problem as much as it did mine. I don't know why the climate system vacuum would be interconnected to the transmission vacuum, but I know for a fact that it is somehow. If you would have driven my car before I plugged that line, you'd think the rear end was going to fall off when the car shifted, and it acted like it had no idea at what rpm to shift at. Now it's smoother than most cars that I have driven. And the only thing I did was plug that one line. On my 87 I went to the vacuum manifold for it's climate system, tested all the hoses going into the manifold with a mitivac, and found a leaky pod, so I just took a piece of plastic wrap and put it over the nipple, and plugged the hose back in, so that's another way to do it without having to access the pod itself.
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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head |
#30
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Transmission vacumn adjustment
Quote:
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DHB Last edited by Brian Carlton; 07-12-2006 at 10:39 PM. |
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