Hello, my 1984 300TD recently developed a 4 inch crack in the top of the radiator (the cheapo plastic tank). The radiator is a Behr, I have no idea how old it is. It looks like I wont be able to JB Weld this one, and I need to replace this thing soon, but I dont want to go and buy a radiator that has cheap plastic parts. This crack obviously developed due to material fatigue because the car runs at a comfortable 90°C and I have never let it overheat. Does anyone know if there is or ever was a radiator made that fits this car (or more importantly the 617 engine) that has metal tanks (like the oil cooler)? Or alternatively, does anyone know of a radiator that is about the right size from another vehicle that would work? I am willing to be creative in order to avoid spending more time and money later. Let me know what you know.

Jesse

All the radiators build for the turbo model 123 were plastic tanked.
They dont last forever just like a metal tanked radiator. Just get another one and motor on for another 10 years.

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1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair

Get an all aluminum radiator from these guys and never worry about plastic tanks again.

http://www.wizardcooling.com/

A bit more costly than the Behr.......but........you get what you pay for.

The plastic ones last 10-20 years, what more can one expect. Heck thats the lifespan of most cars.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Oh well... so now that I have resigned to spending money on a fisher-price plastic P.O.S, is there anything else I should replace or look at in the cooling system while I'm at it? I have noticed recently that the aux. fan has not been turning on. What could be a cause of this? I was actually planning on putting it on a manual switch to avoid the hassle of troubleshooting it, but if its an easy fix I'll just do it right. How often should radiator hoses be replaced? Thermostat seems fine so I'll just leave that one alone for now... or should I? How do I go about checking the main fan clutch for proper operation on this model? When I look under the hood it seems to spin, but I dont really notice a definitive kick when it turns on... again, pulling hills with a trailer in 90°F across Montana, Idaho, and Washington and didnt notice any cooling problems, but I just like to be thorough. Thanks for any input.

also, which brand radiator is the one to get? I noticed in the parts store there is a Behr one and a Nissens one. Nissens is cheaper by a bit. Another idea, could a radiator shop recore my radiator and give me new tanks?

Jesse

Why?

Well there it is, the question that is. I think it would be a great place to JB weld it, unless it is on the underside of the top tank and you can't get at it. But if there is any way to get at it, I would rough up the plastic with a sander on my dremel tool and pack it in. Then if it doesn't hold go the "expensive" route.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

My car's original radiator lasted 23 years, I only replaced it because it was caked with crud and wasn't cooling enough anymore. No cracks, no leaks, no issues at all. I got a new behr radiator about 4 months ago, temps are normal (85-88C) no matter how hard I push the car or what the outside temps are. The old one wasn't even clogged inside at all...I probably could have cleaned it and motored on, but I opted to just put a new one in.

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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

So a Behr radiator & new upper/lower hoses costs you @ $375-400 through Fastlane - Then let's say that it lasts you 10 years... At the upper end, that's going to cost you $40/year averaged - plastic vs metal tanks is not the question here; it's your pocketbook that comes into question.

When you decide to drive a 20+ year-old car as a daily-driver, you've got to expect that a certain amount of upkeep & expense will be involved. The plastic tanks are not a problem -

Because on their website the only mercedes model they listed was for a 240D. Do they make other models? Also, the price difference is substaintial and people claim the plastic ones last 10 years, which isnt bad.

They are custom builders, they will make anything you want.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Actually the plastic tanks are the problem. If the radiator didnt have plastic tanks, the tank wouldnt have cracked, and I wouldnt have to replace my radiator, I could simply have it re-cored once it started acting up. Simply put, if the thing was built right from the start I wouldnt be in the position I'm in, but it wasn't, and thats that.

Also, to answer junqueyardjim as to why I can't JB weld it, the nipple for the small hose that goes from the expansion tank to the top of the radiator broke about a year ago and I JB welded it, now the glue is soft and flaky, especially when hot, I imagine due to an intolerance to antifreeze. Also, I have a suspicion that putting a paste of JB weld over the crack wont do it because it will lift off in a fairly short time, also, what is to keep the crack from getting bigger, even if i do cover it in glue? I could drill the ends and plug the holes with JB Weld, but I am about to embark on (another) 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip towing a trailer and I would like to avoid the possiblity of breaking down as much as possible.

Ummm, Greasy B... the plastic tanks aren't a bad design - They, like all car parts, have a limited lifespan, PERIOD. You are the unfortunate recipient of a cracked header tank; if the radiator is the original, factory-installed part, it lasted 22 years! And if it lasted 22 years, then explain how using plastic is a bad idea?
The majority of cars on the road today use a combination plastic/aluminum radiator; and I realize that some cars are an exception to this statement.

My '84 300D Turbo is on it's original, 22 year-old factory-installed radiator; if it dies tomorrow, then it did it's job well, for 22 years, plastic header tanks included... And it would get replaced with another plastic tanked Behr radiator.

Good luck in your choice of replacement radiator - and welcome to the world of Benz ownership!

The all aluminum radiator was recommended to you because you didn't want a radiator with cheap plastic parts.

If a plastic radiator that lasts 10 years is satisfactory for you, then buy the cheapest radiator that you can find.........all of them will last 10 years if you change the coolant every two years.

A Nissens for $195.94 or a Behr for $285.90 @ ***************? They have excellent customer service I highly recommend them.

It will last the life of your car...

PKK