How would one go about disabling the ARV? I am having my EGR disabled as we speak via the blocking plate method, but if I coul dhave more boost without the ARV, I would like to disable that as well... Can anyone give directions on how to do so???

I dont have a turbo, but a soda can seems a mite thin with all the heat in the vicinity, how long have you been running with it?

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

BB's have been known to some how get lodged in the vacuum line that connects to the ARV on the turbo.

__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

Oh, I see... the old 'errant BB' scam... I hear ya! Let's see... you can buy BB's at Wal-Mart, right???

Here's some photos of a little nicer solution... another forum member (Brian Carlton?) sells a block-off plate to cover the hole left by the EGR. My EGR valve was leaking externally, so the BB trick wasn't cutting it anymore.

More photos here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_intake/

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Removing the EGR will increase the cylinder temp, give you better fuel mileage and more power and increase NoX. Letting the EGR do its thing will lower NoX but raise Co, soot up your engine, reduce fuel mileage and lower cylinder temps, and reduce power slightly.

Its up to you whether you do it or not, I hate the EGR. That is all I will say as big brother (EPA) monitors this site for violators.

__________________
1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair

I ran the Soda can for about 2 years, and then about 3 weeks ago i made my own block off plate like the one pictured above.

The BB is the real trick, it keeps the vaccum from opening the valve.

and its was a little thicker then an average soda can because i used an Arazona Tea can

__________________

Here's a few past threads regarding removal of the EGR:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=140290&highlight=EGR

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=136433&highlight=EGR

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=143334&highlight=EGR

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=114610

That's a pretty clean looking setup. I bought a piece of sheet metal from Lowes and cut it to the shape of the OE gasket. It wasn't nearly as pretty as this setup but I guess it's doing the job.
I then removed the EGR and slipped the new plate inbetween with new gaskets on each side, then reattached the EGR. It's difficult to see the metal plate blocking the EGR valve plus we don't have emmisions inspections in the San Antonio area. I think I'm seeing an increase in performace.

I love my '92 300D 2.5T.

__________________
San Antonio, TX.
1983 300D

I'm glad this thread is back - I was wondering why it was suddenly closed and then disappeared!

If you disable the EGR on almost any MB diesel from 1990-93, you will lose power, because the wastegate is computer controlled (unlike the 1989 and older models). The computer senses the lack of exhaust gasses, and then cuts the boost. To properly disable the EGR on these cars - without power loss - takes a lot more work. Test your 1990-93 300D 2.5T from 0-60 on a flat road with a stopwatch... it should be 13 seconds, approx. If it's much slower than that (say, 15+ seconds) your engine is not delivering normal power. Just an FYI... there are a couple of threads on this subject elsewhere in this forum, from a year or two ago.