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#1
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winmutt...yes it is. remove the pass side kick panel, find the vac line to the center pod and plug it. use a long screw driver inserted thru the center vent to operate that flap while looking at the side of the air box from the pass side. You will see a white "button" looking thing that is the flap pivot point...study it while operating the flap with the fan on and you'll see what and where to super glue....just be sure you KNOW where the flap is when you glue because that is where that flap will stay from now on!
I also did a vacumm line mod that closes the fresh air door when the A/C is on....that helped a lot too...no longer cooling 20% outside air all the time, which is tough in 100+ days.
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Mark 1983 300TD Wagon Even a broken watch is right twice a day |
#2
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here's the link to the fresh air door mod
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=155706&highlight=a%2Fc+mod
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Mark 1983 300TD Wagon Even a broken watch is right twice a day |
#3
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Thanks for all the replies. I have done the following: cleaned the evaporator (kind of) checked all of the pods operation, the center air supply flap seems to cycle as expected, system vacuum checks, replaced blower, checked air supply grids and what I could see into the plenum. It sure seems like the blower is running normally but just not moving any air. I will try your suggestions. Thanks.
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#4
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Still no air flow.
If the main air door was failed closed would this not allow the blower to move much air ? Does the air flow go through the evaporator at all times with cooling only when compressor is selected with CCU ? Sure wish that I could find a visual of the air flow through the system on a 123.
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#5
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#6
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Mine was blowing a lot of air out of the defroster vents. The pod that controls the opening or closing of the defroster vent on my 83 300CD is in the drivers leg room area just in front of the console area. It is the one that sits vertical. Mine would just barely move when I pressed the defrost button. I closed it completely and zip tied it closed until I can fix it correctly. It sure made a big difference on the air flow.
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2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes) 1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car) 1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine) 1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine) 1984 190D (sold and glad I did) 1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't) |
#7
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Whoa -
Left side panel covering tunnel (drivers side kick panel) - remove it.
And the hush panel below the dash/steering column. Pod that has two vacuum hoses and is vertical right above gas pedal area. Linkage comes out the top. With car running and fan at full reach up in there and pull that linkage down and close that flap. If your vacuum pod is broken like mine was than your forceful dash air was blowing out the defroster vent. Like Hit Man X asked. If you can pull it down and the dash starts to blow hard..... then replace that pod. No dash removal necessary. Although I did this with a strange variety of tools and patience it was done without removing instrument cluster. If I ever do it again I will remove the instrument cluster to get at the pod connectors which face up. Good Luck. It worked for me and I now have a nice strong dash air flow. I also took the time to remove the glovebox and reach into the center pod and used a paper clip like wire (made from music/piano wire) to wire that center flap open. This gives me a stronger flow out of center on vent setting and lets me control it with the control knobs on the vents.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#8
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Quote:
I used a zip tie to hold that one down (under driver side) and I get PLENTY of air flow. Also, I had issues with the BLower motor, I bought Kent's guide to replacing the brushes, which made the blower worse actually, so I bought a new Blower motor and now, theres PLENTY of breeze going thru there!
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91 350SD 14 F150 Eco 19 Fusion Hybrid 11 GT500 |
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