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#1
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brake bleeding problems! - 1987 300D
First posting - please bear with me - i'm freaking here...
A 1987 300D, antilock braking, soft brake pedal, spongy - felt like bubbles. Figured to try to purge (edited out:bleed) the system (seemed the first thing to try - fluid a little low). Looked at all brakes yesterday - no leaks/wetness anywhere. Today: suctioned-out the old fluid from the reservoir, looked a bit dark, filled it with new DOT4. Pedal felt a little better with the engine running. Hooked a Mityvac to the left front caliper to start purging the lines, pulled about 10" of vacuum, cracked the valve and withdrew a bit of fluid with several bubbles in it. Did it twice more - more fluid & some bubbles. Maybe pulled out just under 2oz. of fluid total. THEN realized it could be leaking air around the threads. Got someone to help me to play 'pump & hold the pedal, burp the valve". NOW the pedal goes all the way to the floor, hardly any fluid coming out of the tube (what comes out doesn't look as clear as the new I put in) and have tried it 15-20 times with NO improvement. When the pedal is pumped and held I can still spin the rotor. Haven't checked the other wheels or moved the vehicle yet - left front is still jacked & wheel-off. HELP! ![]() (desperate) Thanks! Last edited by solitas; 07-29-2006 at 11:28 PM. |
#2
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Answer:
All the data you need.
![]() ShopForum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > DIY Links by Parts Category Brake: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142411 Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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I have the same problem happened to me today, what did you do to have fluid out there (rear right wheel). I tried pumping with my foot with a helper for about 1 hour and no solution only air coming out.
please help thanks |
#4
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You have emptied the master res.
There are two res ,seperated by a wall,, the fluid has to go over the seperating wall to get to the other res.. you have to fill the res to the top for this to happen. |
#5
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Hi,
I filled the reservoir to almost the top.there is no fluid moving out of it to the other res. I assumed both filled. Can you tell from outside the res. if the back one is filled. is the back one so narrow that you confuse it with the body of the res. It is so redicules from MRBZ to design the res. this way. I heard about this 10 times already and stil confused. Sometimes there is something in the design that only the designer can see, it seems stubid to the others. may be I missing something else. I will check again tommorow, thanks |
#6
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You have to look at both res.
The only way to fill the back one is to over-flow the front.. this is a dual braking system and requires the 2 res. If you do not have them both full, you are wating your time .. and only making things worse by pumping air into the entire system.. |
#7
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the system is designed this way for your safety.
if you blow a seal or line on the rear brakes (or the front) and empty the mc of fluid you can only empty the side that is feeding the failed part of the system. the other side is there for you and you can stop the car. you dont want it to have no fence. trust me. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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With ABS, it's best to pump the brakes 50 to 60 times to purge the accumulators, then prodceed with bleeding. Forget the Mighty Vac, get a pressure operated bleeded, such as this one:
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1595&NodeID=5088&RootID=629 which will also work on MB's. I know, I've used it on Volvos and MBs.
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#9
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Problem fixed!
It was again the back reserviour. It was all empty that is why I could not see any oil level, i thought it was all full. I just cannot understand why it is not larger than that and more visible. I read in this forum that many people encountered thjis problem. My car 1s 1987, hopefuly in the new designs MRBZ fixed this. For anybody with this problem, you need to check the back, the container is then (1/2 inch thick) looks like the back wall of the reserviour. there is a mark (not very visible) says MIN. the oil level could go easily passed this mark down while bleeding before you notice. To fill the back, you need to add the fluid untill the little hole in the neck of the res. also, the level of the car is important. You need to pump the brake pedal gently until the fluid migrates to the back. it needs patience!!! Thank you all for help. |
#10
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Power Bleeder
Brake bleeder recommendation
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=455818 Power Bleeder or what? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=707359 Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=117258 Industry Adopts Brake Fluid Replacement Guidelines By Bill Williams, Technical Contributor http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=96852&page=1&pp=15 Why should I flush my brake fluid every year, you ask? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=220599 |
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