About three years ago, the transmission fluid line broke. It's attached with metal clips with a plastic fitting between the clip and the pipe. The plastic had been shook loose and the metal clasp had worn away the pipe and made a hole in it. I had the pipe replaced with a new one ordered from Germany. This weekend it happened again!!!

Unless I'm the unluckiest AFT-line owner around, the metal clasp system with the plastic insert must be a faulty design. I can post pictures if anyone would like to take a look.

This time I repaired the line myself with some plumbing tape and a couple of hose clamps. I'll find a better repair later on and put in a more solid plastic or rubber insert between the clasp and the pipe.

Anyone else prone to this design fault?

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1988 560 SEL
1984 190D 2.2 (Sold)

That's funny, I had the same failure on my 300D last week (345K miles). Apparently the little rubber/plastic grommet deteriorated and the tube rubbed on the clamp. I should have noticed it sooner and replaced the grommet, but I'm an idiot. As a temporary fix, I cut out the bad piece of tubing and installed a length of fuel line with clamps. That's been working fine for a week. I have the replacement line ordered, it will be installed this week. I'm not sure if I'm getting a new clamp or not, if not I will make a grommet from a small piece of the fuel line and reuse the clamp.

It did last 345K miles, and I suspect it failed due to getting oil on it (the PO wasn't very diligent about fixing leaks), so I hesitate to call it a design flaw. I guess I'll have to take another look when it gets to 700K miles.

The old engine in my 83 300CD used to shake pretty bad. the left side line broke through first, it was removed, welded thicker in the spot it broke and put back in. a few months later, the right side broke. due to the fact the engine was out of a different car i suppose, I couldnt for the life of me get the lie out, short of unbolting the engine and lifting it, so I cut a section of hose, wrapped it around the break and used hose claps to secure it. Held for over a year untill the engine finally blew up.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Did you replace the clamps when you replaced the tranny cooling line? If not, then the problem is still there.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Exactly my situation. And it's still holding. I have a used line from the junkyard. I guess I should pop it in soon... However as preventitive maintenence on the other line, I cut a piece of 3/8" ( i think) fuel line and replaced the crumbling plastic grommet with that. I probably will never have to worry about it again.

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1984 Astral Grey 300TDT - The French Fry
1979 Yellow 300SD - The Pomme - SOLD
1985 Light Ivory 300DT - Fritz
1987 Anthracite Grey 300SDL - ?

Hopefully my new line will show up early this week, like it's supposed to. I need to drive about 4000 miles next week, and I want to get rid of this temporary fix before I leave. I may end up doing the same thing with the grommet, there's no reason that it wouldn't last indefinitely.

I've had the same thing happen to me on both my SD and SWMBO's D.

The line on the D was a pain in the behind to get a replacement. The books give one partnumber, but that part doesn't work at the transmission connection. Then I got the right part number from Carson357 and my dealer ordered and delivered...this one's going to work....

Until I get that replaced, I cut the line, used a 3" piece of tranny hose from O'Reilly to splice the two halves together....working great!

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

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Well, I got a call this morning telling me the part was in for my 300D, hopefully it's the correct part. If not I'll also be asking for the correct part number. The sooner I get rid of this patch job, the happier I'll be.

I had the same kind of leak. I took the piece of line after I cut it to a hydraulic shop and for under $10 they sold me a 10,000psi compression splice that fit perfectly. I was sure to re-line the clamps so that I end up with 9 or 10 splices.

-Tad

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1995 G320
2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe
2005 ML500
2007 ML350

Well, I just installed my new tranny cooling line on the 300D. It's only a moderate PITA, but if you have oil leaks it won't be pleasant. The line (right/pasenger side) is held in place by three clamps with grommets. One on the lower oil pan, one near the starter, and one near the exhaust down-comer pipe. After wasting about 10 minutes, I figured out you need to loosen the first exhaust support to snake the line out/in or it gets jammed. You definitely need a 5mm allen socket and a universal joint to remove the clamps. The line is connected to the tranny with a big banjo bolt, easy to get to (19 mm wrench). I reused the clamps, but installed new grommets. The whole thing should take around an hour if you don't have any problems. You will lose a few ounces of fluid, maybe a cup. The left side looks like it would be easier.

The part number for the line is A 123 270 40 96, and the grommets are A 112 997 02 81. All the parts cost less than $90.

for the suggestions - my temporary fix has held so far, but I'll do an upgrade on the work today by cutting off the offending section of the metal line and replacing with a flexible tube held in place with hose clamps.

SD Blue: Yes they did put in new clamps when they replaced the line. It seemed however, that some sort of tool was used to tighten the metal band around the plastic piece - sort of pinching it in place. I think if the pinching had not been so tight it might have caused less stress on the plastic piece not causing it to break so easily.

If I have time, I'll also replace the other plastic inserts (I believe there are about 4 or 5 of them altogether) with rubber ones by loosening the clamps and sliding on a piece of rubber hose.

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1988 560 SEL
1984 190D 2.2 (Sold)