My money pit (240D) doors will not lock at all. I can lock the driver door only. When I do the other knobs barely move. But I cannot manually push them down. Does that seem normal that you can't manually lock the doors?

Try pulling up on them slightly, wiggling, then pushing down. That works on my one door that has that problem. Something is catching in the vacuum mechanism that needs to be freed up before manually closing on mine.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Thanks Kerry edwards, It worked but I must have a terrible vac. leak in the lines. I was done playing (with the car running) then went to shut it down and it took a while to build vacuum to shut down. Now I'm off to find that thread about taking the panels off without breaking the plastic map pocket on the door.

AAaaarrrgghh. Drove it around and door locks work manually if your in the car. Once you get out, you have to lock driver door with key then walk around to each door and open then lock manually then shut the door. Better than nothing so far. Funny thing is, all the doors unlock automatically with key in driver door. Very slowly. Driver rear, then pass. rear, then pass. front. I need to get a mity vac I guess. More into the Money pit.

I'm owned by a 300SD so this may not apply to 240Ds.
Do you have a three line vacuum 'switch' in the driver's door? Two lines to the pass. door? If so could a pair of these lines be bassackwards?
Did this system ever work for you?
Have you done a mini-vac test on the lines from inside the eng. compartment?

Just so you feel better, the 380 SEL I'm being trained by had a PO remove the vacuum lines from the drivers door, rear left door and had a bad vacuum pump filp flop 'switch' in the trunk. I did the normal testing the three way under the pass floor mat ... good. Pump ran fine. Drivers door would lock and the electrical switch in the drivers door would operate the pump which would work in one direction. After a few new words and promises to drive back to TX, I tested the pump, and then pulled the drivers floor mat and ... PO struck again! Do POs ever die or do they show up while I'm doing something non MB related (work, women) and tinker?

ive removed my door panel without braking the map pocket.. just unbolt all the bolts you can see and it should pop off

Ha, I love the way you put it "I'm owned by a 300SD." I know the feeling. Yes it has a 3 way vac swith up by the mechanism on the drivers door. I am going to have to get a mini-vac so I can test these things. Kinda pricy item I've heard. But owning more than 1 benz, it might be worth the expense. Just don't have the extra $$ right now. Seems every other week I'm buying something for 1 of them. I have a 300D that was supposed to be sold and the guy keeps hem hawing around about. The locks work perfect on that one so I'm officially turning that one into a parts donor.

I did too. My map pocket was broken when I got the car.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

You need to slide the map pocket upward, at least at the front to disengage it from a slot.
The plastic line can break where it enters thr driver's door in the rubber boot since it is subject to a lot of flexing at that point.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Does anyone have a fix for the vacuum and electrical line door flex rubbers?
While everything inside is fine they look a bit trashy.