I've had my 85 300D for about 4 or 5 years now and have done a bunch of the usual things like banjo bolt cleaning, alda, valve adjustment and such. Lately I've been trying to get the 0-60 back in spec, it seems to be around 15 seconds last i checked. So i figured I'd think about the IP timing which is something I've been avoiding. Is this something I could easily do, say if I've done basic things like valve adjustments, shock absorber R&R, primer pump R&R (gotta love those new bosch units), dummy stuff like that? BTW the primer pump was a horrible, horrible pain in the ass, I couldn't find a 24MM wrench in town, and even if I did i dont see how it would fit in there. I even tried one of those nutty basin wrenches but it couldn't do jack. So i just used vice grips and every ounce of muscle I had. Of course I knocked one of the fuel lines, those clear plastic ones and it sprung a leak so I was running around a couple days waiting for the dealer to get it in stock. By my calculations i dribbled 8 gallons of fuel onto the ground... :|

How much are those drain tube units you are supposed to screw into the injection pump "element?" Or should I just leave this to a good shop, how much would they charge? I mean the engine starts right up in the mornings and idles real smooth with no nailing or anything, but I don't know if that means the timing is good. MPG in town is 20 mpg which kind of sucks. Kind of wish i had a 420SEL or somethin. I do punch it every once in a while.

Also is there another cause for the squealing sound I hear when driving besides stuck calipers? 'Cause I heard them a long time ago and thought they were coming from the front calipers so I changed those out. Sound didn't quit. So now I'm guessing its from the rear calipers... could it be wheel bearings or anything else before I drop the money (i was just looking up caliper prices for my friend's crapped out Trans Am we've been slowly restoring... they cost 18 dollars!) The sound goes away for a couple seconds after I brake a little, then comes back.

Ara

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

If your car has a plug that takes a 17mm wrench on the side of the IP then checking IP timing is trivially simple if you can borrow the A-B box. Otherwise you have to use the drip method which requires removing the #1 delivery valve holder and fitting a specifically formed tube and watching fuel droplets form.

Sixto
93 300SD

If you have an original style pump, a 15/16 SAE "Crows Feet" wrench attached to an extension and ratchet works great. You can get those at Sears easily. I do believe 15/16 SAE and 24MM are the same size.