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-   -   Pedal swap, manual vs automatic (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=166467)

JimmyL 10-04-2006 01:01 PM

Pedal swap, manual vs automatic
 
I am starting my early research for the swapping of drivetrains between my wrecked 240D manual into my 300D parts car.
Seems like I might have underestimated the "pain in the arse" factor on pedal removal/swap. I knew I would have to run the hyd. lines for the clutch, but as I'm upside down looking up towards the pedal mounting area, I can't really tell where the clear cut removal points are. Does anyone have an explanation and maybe pictures on pedal removal? Kamil's thread didn't show it, and I'm fixing to go through RLeo's thread also.
Moving the Camaro out of the garage over to my sainted mother's garage to have some covered workspace with a concrete floor underneath. Rock parking areas are OK, but not conducive to jacks and jack stands......
Thanks yall......

Rudolphrocks 10-04-2006 03:01 PM

bump:dj:

rs899 10-04-2006 07:01 PM

It has been awhile now since I pulled a pedal set from a junkyard, but I am pretty sure it is held on ONLY by the four nuts that hang off the studs of the brake booster. Then there is a strut that just wedges behind the back of the dash. Not too hard, if you can see what you are doing. I always use a couple of those floppy extensions on a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket.

Rick

t walgamuth 10-04-2006 09:23 PM

my indie ran the clutch line thru the hole in the floor where the kick down switch formerly resided.

tom w

JimmyL 10-05-2006 12:00 AM

That is good info yall, and a good future tip. Also thanks for the info from RLeo via PM. Also, the throttle situation on a '77 model is quite different from most of our other W123's. Gonna have to deal with that too. Will prolly start a thread to photo document swap and deal with any questions.
Started up Camaro today and got it out of garage, just to find out that I have little to no brakes. They are manual brakes to start with, so any degredation in performance is huge. Not sure where the leak is yet, but no puddles...... Think it master cyl at firewall. Uffffff.........:eek:

kerry 10-05-2006 12:26 AM

Can't help much because my memory is not clear, but I did remove the clutch and brake pedal and all related parts at a junkyard with a very limited set of tools. Pulled the tranny, flywheel and clutch also. I think the whole job took less than 2 hrs in total. I don't remember any difficult bolts.

bgkast 10-05-2006 12:43 AM

Take a look at the last page of my turbo swap thread for a possible solution to the throttle linkage problem.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=159597&page=9&highlight=turbo+240D

Miklas 06-15-2007 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rs899 (Post 1295210)
It has been awhile now since I pulled a pedal set from a junkyard, but I am pretty sure it is held on ONLY by the four nuts that hang off the studs of the brake booster. Then there is a strut that just wedges behind the back of the dash. Not too hard, if you can see what you are doing. I always use a couple of those floppy extensions on a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 13mm socket.

Rick

I can't figure out how to get the top of the clutch/brake pedal assembly from its metal U-clasp attatched to the back of the dash. Anyone know?

winmutt 06-16-2007 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miklas (Post 1537698)
I can't figure out how to get the top of the clutch/brake pedal assembly from its metal U-clasp attatched to the back of the dash. Anyone know?

I dont remember any U clasp other than one right where the plumbing to the clutch slave was. And it was just a normal bolt/screw.

Miklas 06-16-2007 03:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt (Post 1537775)
I dont remember any U clasp other than one right where the plumbing to the clutch slave was. And it was just a normal bolt/screw.

I see, I was missing that the top U Clasp is attached to a C clasp, it pulls right out if you pull towards the driver's seat.:rolleyes::speechles Thanks for the confirmation.


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