I am planning to replace the rear rubber mounts on my 93 300D.

Anyone who has done this job, please chime in as to how they did it.

Is there a loaner tool for the pull out and press in of the rubber mount ? Or can I do pull it out with the bolt and nut method used for the 123s?

Thanks

Which rubber mounts? There are 2 sets of subframe-to-body mounts, which are different sizes; three rubber differential-to-subframe mounts, and then 5 suspension links with rubber bushings on each end.

Some photos of my subframe mount job (near bottom) :
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/


A nice tutorial on the forward subframe mount job (6MB PDF file) :
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/subframe_bushing_install.pdf


If replacing the rear pair, I'd install the Sportline mounts...

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Thanks GSXR! The links were useful.

I finally completed all 4 bushings on the rear subframe.

The links were useful. I have some suggestions to add

1) Use a 2 inch washer at the edge of the front rear subframe bushing and use a 1/2 inch extension with a 16mm socket pushing from the bottom. I used a jack to push up from the bottom. Bushing came out in 15 mins.

2) Becareful when pushing in the bushing, there is a 1/4 inch protrusion at the bottom. U need to use some big washers and spacers to push down the bushing. One way to get the bushing to seat is get 2 big plates that will fit at the top, when using the bolt and washer method of pushing the bushing in.

3) The rear bushing of the subframe bushing was a walk in the park. I unscrewed the bolt, lowered the car, pushed in a 16mm socket at the top of the bushing jamming it between the screwin cyclinder and the bushing and jacked the subframe up. Came out in 5 mins.

4) Used a jack with a wooden block to push in the bushing. Slides in easy. Takes about 5 mins to complete the push in.

Thanks once again for ur help.

Next project - differential bushings!

Which rubber mounts? There are 2 sets of subframe-to-body mounts, which are different sizes; three rubber differential-to-subframe mounts, and then 5 suspension links with rubber bushings on each end.


GSXR - I reread ur thread above and u say there r 3 rubber differential-to-subframe mounts.

I have found 4 - 2 sets. 1 set is pressed into the cross member. The other set metal-rubber-metal, about 2.5 inches in diameter sandwich the front part of the differential to the subframe. One of the bushings can be seen from the underside of the car. The other is between the allen bolt and nut, at the top.

Am I missing something?

No, sorry, you have all of them. Two are at the rear cover, and then there is a pair at the front of the diff, I think of them as one item but you're right, they are separate, one visible from underneath, one hidden from view up top. Sorry for the confusion.

Completed RR of the differential mounts.

It is a straight pull out and push in job. U do need a special tool to do the job or my guess is u r going to have a tough time. Very tough time!

So, I completed RR of a total of 4 bushings and 4 mounts for the rear axle of my 93 300D. The car rides much better.

Many thanks to Ajeya for his help in defining the pull out - push in tool.

Sixto for his kind words of encouragement.

I am planning my next project - RR the front lower arm bushings. I reckon I will tackle this job a couple of weeks down the road.

Anyone who has RR the front lower bushings and other rubber I should replace while I there, please chime in.

What is the symptom of bad differential bushings? I was under my car today, and noticed these bushings were pretty crappy looking, but I can't figure out their purpose.

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

The front lower control arm bushings are not too bad to R&R, no special tools needed, but a LARGE bench vise can be quite helpful. You need to be VERY careful to install the bushings properly, as the factory manual is not all that clear on which direction the flats go, and they are different front to back. The very old 124's have them opposite, and I think you're supposed to switch to the newer positioning, at least that's what's on all my cars (with Sportline bushings). I use a wheel lug bolt to swage the center sleeve in place... it's not the best, but it's close enough.

The big problem with the LCA's is that you need the factory spring compressor to remove the LCA before you can work on them. And, you'll need an alignment afterwards, preferably from the dealership. Remember not to torque the bolts down until the car is on the ground or you'll preload the bushings at full suspension droop... not a good thing.


The diff bushings hold the diff in place in the subframe and isloate the drivieline vibration/noise from the chassis. When worn you'll usually get a clunking as power is applied/removed, and/or more noise. These aren't fun to replace as they also require the diff to be removed.

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