Ad's are only issued when there is a known (someone fesses up) problem.The manufacturer always supplies the inspection intervals and criteria(right Brian?)

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85 300sd SOLD ,85 745i,95 740i,1972 Suburban,1938 International

Benzdiesel wrote:"
Right now, I've come to the FINAL conclusion that the EGR in addition to the turbo's re-design (somehow) caused the carbon buildup in #1 and #6 cylinders and in addition to breaching the head gasket, the rods bent/tilted toward the buildup on the exhaust valve as a result of the continued POUNDING of the piston on the caked up carbon on the exhaust valve. THEN, after enough carbon was formed in the cylinder; THE OIL RINGS STUCK, causing the oil consumption problem. Therefore, I am in the process up using "snake oils" to see if I can get my rings unstuck, IF they are stuck like I suspect."

The issue for the oil consumption is that the rings don't stick, the bore goes oval in shape due to the piston cocking from the bent rod.

I drove mine for 2 years adding oil 4 litres per tank full- thats 800-900 kilometers and 1000 kilometers on the highway, i would add 2 liters halfway (when the low oil light came on- 2 liters down). But I had to do something it wouldn;t pass smog. I could trade it in for nothing or fix and drive for awhile ( I LOVE THE W140) and then sell. I may do that. MBZ diesels are BIG $$$ up here in Toronto. A huge cult following.

I did think about just straightening the rods, but they would bend sooner or later. OR straighten the rods, put 2 sleeves in #1 and #6 reuse the pistons and them dump the car.

BTW- I have 4 straight rods if anyone needs them.

Steve

someone can straighten rods adequately?

if you sleeve it and the pistons are good enough to reuse, why not keep it?

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

BTW the pistons in 1 and 6 get scuffed up bad. Again I have 4 used rods-straight and 4 pistons. If you want to do a budget job.

Steve

With jet engines, the manufacturers are surprisingly candid. The potential liability for attempting to coverup an issue that would render the engine inoperative would be huge.

GE determined that their fatigue life of the very central rotor (3-9 spool) in the middle of the compressor is not satisfactory. This happened on one of their most popular engines that power more than 50% of the B-767's that are flying. The cost to gradually remove each engine from the fleet and replace the spool were outrageously high. And, it could not be accomplished for nearly two years due to the new parts were not immediatly available.

But, the consequences of ignoring the problem are unacceptable.

Contrast this to the consequences of ignoring a connecting rod with a marginal fatigue life.

Add to that the connecting rod is in an engine that was selected for some small fraction of the MB customer base buying a particular model, that the Diesel engine in general has become a low priority for the United States market, and you have a set of consequences (pissed of customers) that are trivial to MB compared to the cost of "doing the right thing" or at least making the problem cause and fix known. So, it remains officially, not a problem for MB. Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Actually, Jim, you are a prime example of this.

You spent quite a bit of money to fix their design problem and you return to the fold with one of their newer and more modern vehicles.

Their strategy is working...........

No way. I've driven at least 8 different examples of the 3.5 and about 20 of the 3.0 liter. I own one of each, too.
They are not really different in TOTAL output. You can't compare one car to another, both in separate states of tune.

A 350 runs out of breath at about 4200 rpm. A 300 should pull strong up to about 4800 rpm. A 350 may chirp a tire from a stop, when in good tune, but after 4K, its all done.

I still prefer the greater thrust of the 350 at lower engine speeds, though. Its definitely MUCH stronger below 3K than the 3.0 liter. With all things in equal spec between each car, that is.

The 300 may have respectable off-the-line performance with the ALDA removed, but a good 350 can haul butt by chirping tires with a sudden jab of the accelerator.

It's a bottom line issue. Total your costs of all parts required plus the cost of
machining and compare that figure to cost of a rebuilt unit from Mercedes with
a 48 month guarantee. I did the same and found that it would not be cost
effective, even doing the work in my own shop and subcontracting the actual
machining.

i have not driven a 3.0 sdl. the 3.5 is a torque monster. very nice to drive. not much need to ever down shift unless in a near emergency. but the tranny is so sweet a downshift is perfect too!

i did have a 300e 2.6. i bet a 3.0 sdl is kindof like that. wind it out and it is fine. not wound up though it was a wet rag! limp. pokey!

but if i had a 3.5 with a bad motor i would get a 3.0 block and rebuild it as a 3.0 with out a backward look.

the 3.5 is just a little too much excitement for an old man like me.....wondering when the rods might bend.

i loved driving mine though.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

For those of you who would like to see photographs of an actual MB rebuilt motor- the one for the 350 SDL- go to www.scaffolding.com/mb

I was hooked on MB Diesels in the first fuel crisis - I drove up to a Diesel pump, passing dozens and dozens of cars in the gas lines, and filled up without delay. Then, the 1971 220D delivered something like 450 miles to a tank of fuel. And it was easy (other than the oil filter) to maintain.

The 350SD was a beautiful car. Until it turned into an oil burning piece of junk with no resale value. I was lucky. I got the "high" blue-book value, and my engine repair costs applied as a trade to my E300D TurboDiesel. It was an offer I couldn't refuse, as it amounted to more than $10K difference for any dealer I might try to trade in to, and it had begun to smoke again.

So, yeah, I am guilty of buying another. And, based on how I was treated by the dealer here, I would do it again. The E300D TurboDiesel is a hell of a machine, but the electrical stuff is just not up to snuff. Too many peculiar failures - from light bulbs to climate controls. Just a mess.

Next time around, if I buy another MB it will be to the credit of the dealership. Maybe by then some other Diesel choices will be available that may make the default to MB decision a little less likely. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

After driving the 617, I do not think I have ever needed to see how it winds up. I need to adjust my vacuum control valve because you just do not need to use enough throttle to get crisp shifts. My ALDA looks virgin but my low end lack of "turbo lag" makes me wonder about why anyone would need to remove the ALDA. I have only owned it for a couple of months, so who knows what the PO did. He, or his mechanic seem to know what they were doing.

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1982 300D 135K
1986 300SDL 145K
1996 GMC Suburban 4x4 winter/tow vechicle
1989 Sunsation 24(ft) 454 65 MPH :fork_off:
1997 Aurora 82K

The transmission reverse went out and I just let the car sit and refused to fix a transmission and still had to put oil in the car at 300 miles a quart. Anyway, I tore the engine down again to take another look. I noted the differences in the rods. And it is a FACT that the 3.5 rods were made more CHEAPLY than the 3.0 and exhaust gas on these cheap rods didn't help. It wouldn't surprise me if Mercedes Benz intentionally put in weak rods to keep these cars from going too much more than 100,000 miles like they used to do with the OM617. Anyway, it has been one big, long headache; one after the other on this car.

BenzDiesel

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An oil leak in the area of the front/right corner of the head, above the alternator, can be from:

1. the head gasket (the main pressurized oil galley feeding the head is at this corner)
2. oil in #1 combustion chamber leaking out #1 exhaust port (could be from various sources)
3. leaky chain tensioner (not likely)
4. front timing cover not sealed well (also not likely)

Kaleb, if you can take the car down for a while, yeah it would be good to yank the head and inspect the bores, and also measure piston protrusion. Pretty likely you have a hole or two with problems.

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