Howdy

Lower oil cooling line is leaking where it connects to the cooling grid by the radiator. The shop said that the job will take three hours and is difficult to do. I was also told the line from the local dealership is preferable to the lower priced after market lines (they will leak and won't last long). Does this sound correct. The total cost will be approx $350-$400.

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1985 300D Turbodiesel ( Cal.)

I did this job last year.

I do not know ur skill level - It is not that difficult. U can do the job in about 3-4 hrs (beer break included).

U need a 27 mm spanner. File down the open end to about half its thickness. U need to do this because of the lack of space when removing the nuts at both ends of the oil line.

1) Unscrew the bottom bolt that holds the engine mount
2) Unscrew the bolts that hold the line in place.
3) Unscrew the bolts on the L shape bracket that holds the line in place
4) Place a thick block of wood under the oil pan and jackup, the middle of the oil pan, a couple of inches. If needed jackup a little more - until the oil line can be snaked out.
5) The new oil line goes back in the same way.

If u feel that u would rather have a shop to do it - 3-4 hrs is a reasonable estimate. 2-2.5 hrs would be a better deal.

Watch them threads on them thar oil coolers. I was told by the only shop I'll ever go to if I have to go to a shop, that I might as well count on a new cooler to go with that new oil cooler line due to the aluminum threads on the cooler stripping out when removing oil cooler fittings. I need a new lower line also, but I will replace both when I get around to it since I don't want to be messing with any oil cooler threads afterwards. Hopefully I can get it done without buggering the threads out. Be careful with them.

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

I was told the drivers side motor mount would need to come to do this on a 123 Is this not so?
- Gil

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Gil

2004 ML350
1984 300CD; Ivory (sold)

I did both hoses in less than two hours. And I did not hurry.

There have been numerous reports of poor longevity with aftermarket oil hoses. It's probably worth the money to get the OE hoses, especially if you are paying for the installation.

Done it three times now, last time I was in a hurry and did it in just around an hour. The only hard part is threading the lines back on. I dont think its easy to cross thread unless you get to frustrated. The secret is to push the flanges together while threading. The problem lies in the fact that the fitting end on the metal pipe with a little lip right at or before the point where the threading starts. If you get hung up on that lip it is nothing but curses.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I did Gray Ghost...over several days...BUT this included engine shocks and new motor mounts and on jack stands (no lift) and family errands in between. Some thoughts:
+ Ensure you have a leak in the line and not in the cooler.
+ Get a cooler from that bone yard in Ft. Lauderdale -- great prices, quality used goods, and quick service.
+ All lower lines are NOT the same! This may contribute to the torsion flex failure of the soft elements. I took out the old one and laid it up next to the new and -- surprise -- the metal fitting that gets threaded on to the cooler had the hard pipe bends a wee bit off. Two beer breaks and some loosening of everything, then carefully aligning and snugging up first at the cooler and working to the pump worked for me.
+ The tool tips I used successfully was to cut the box end a millimeter larger than the hard oil line. I never ground down anything. Lots of space at the cooler end, less so at the pump. Another beer break and it went in to spec.
+ Follow related threads on the subject, especially from Diesel Giant (at his DIY site both the mounts and hose R&R is laid out in living color. Thanks, DG!).
+ I found I did not have to remove the left (driver's) engine shock to get the hose hard lines in. I DID have to temporarily disconnect the braided grounding strap on the left side. Then it was smooth.
+ Do the mounts and shocks if not already done recently. The motor has to be jacked up anyway. Tip here is to get the inboard side (towards the engine) 6mm hex head screws from UNDER the car with a simple Allen wrench (clean out the recess first). It will mean some blind fingering and safety glasses, but, heck, if I could do it... I got a lot of exercise doing the up-down crank around. Makes one thirsty for...brewskis, of course!
+ Dittos all other posts on mating alignment and then c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y starting the threading.
+ Don't over-tighten, but don't be afraid to crank it either.
+ Goes without saying to clean up very thoroughly to enable the detection of after-the-job leaks.
+ About 8+ quarts a bit at a time and recheck. There is a thermostatic valve that opens only when the oil is at op temp. Then the cooler will flood -- and you will need to top up.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

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FRANKNBENZ

1985 300D "Old Blue" 265,000 (parts car )
1985 300D "Gray Ghost" 245,000
1985 300D "Silver Bullet" 160,000
1975 914 VW/Porsche "BC Car" 125,000
2010 Prius "Shocking!" 60,000
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