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#1
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storage of I.P
how should i package a used injector pump for un-known long term storage? have many different spray preservatives ie amsoil, zep-preserve, but am not sure if i should soak with the spray in the inlet and outlet holes, then cover / wrap with shrink wrap type plastic or what. . . . .
how have others done this ? i may never need it but its not something a fellow should jsut throw around the garage. oh, by the way, this is northern wisconsin, wide range of temps and humidity and it will be in "cold storage". thanks for the input. davidh |
#2
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i would spray it down, wrap in oily rags and shrink wrap it. maybe some silica beads, like what comes w/ new shoes,etc? of course, i've never stored an IP befor, but seems like this would be fine.
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#3
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IP storage
The main thing would be to keep dirt and dust out. Shrink wrap is a great idea but saran wrap would do.
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#4
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I would purge the IP of all diesel fuel and fill it with ATF. If the sulphur in the diesel were to mix with any condensation from temp changes it could wreak havoc inside the pump.
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82 300SD 202K 82 300SD 233K 83 300TD 340K 82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof) 85 300TD 282K 83 300TD 197K |
#5
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I dunno......BUT.....
Howdy,
I dunno, BUT, I think if you checked with Bosch....the might recommend filling the entire fuel side of the pump with diesel, as opposed to ATF, and also of note....the new ULSD is supposed to be less than 15ppm Sulphur. Attach a hose to the priming pump, and pump it full....if you happen to have a spare banjo fitting.....plug it and secure it with the pump's "banjo bolt / pressure regulating bolt"...... Bear in mind that there is a lower end of the pump that is lubricated by the engine oiling system......I would flush with Kerosene or ULSD until all of the sooty Lube is cleaned out.....and refill with clean lube oil...personally I would choose SAE 30 Non-Detergent (air compressor oil)....but it probably would not make much difference. See if you can find some cosmoline or a product LPS-V3.....if you have a Grainger near you...they will have something to paint on the outside.....if you happen to have some exrta fuel pipe nuts, screw them onto the pumping elements, to protect the threads. Wrap in cheesecloth, and duct tape.....put it in the spot with the lowest relative humidity, that you are willing to keep it in..... Just my thoughts...... SB
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#6
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I would think the best would be to sotre it submerged in oil in a bucket. Second to that oiled butcher paper, made for storing machined steel is a good idea, along with dessicant packs.
-nB
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'83 300D Turbo Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00 3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280 Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com |
#7
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All I know is that I would not want to purchase a used pump just laying around dry for an extended period. Much preffer a pump direct from a sitting engine. Finding a container about the same size and just submerging in oil would be my prefference. At least up past the delivery valves. Almost mandatory for your region probably. Should come out ten to twenty years later in about the same condition as put in. Any method where rust can get involved is absolutly taboo with those internal cylinders. A point perhaps of little knowledge. Submerging something in varsol will seize things up so tight they are usually finished. Even short term is to be avoided. Want to experiment? Take a rod and piston assembly. Submerge it in varsol for two weeks. See what it takes to get the wristpin out. Almost bet you will damage the piston. Seen people pay dearly to learn that. Just cheap non detergent motor oil should be best I would think. At least thats what I would do unless someone posted something negative about it. I can be wrong.
Last edited by barry123400; 11-11-2006 at 08:18 PM. |
#8
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Submerged
Submerged, good idea if you have the space....
But if you do submerge it, don't forget to plug the Alda, Shutoff, and any other vacuum and EGR connections....... SB
__________________
Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
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