Does anyone have any experience replacing the guide rod bushing in the lower control arm. Had a leak in the lower oil cooler line for some time prior to acquiring the car and it leaked all over the drivers side lower control arm and brakes, it has just about destroyed the rubber bushing at the end of the guide rod. I've had a squeaking noise for some time and now its getting really annoying.

I know where to get the part...just need to know what am I getting myself into. Seems it might not be that bad to replace as long as I dont need to remove the coil spring to gain access to the bolt, washers and bushings.

Coil has to come out...

If you're going through that trouble, I'd HIGHLY consider replacing most of the lower suspension parts.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I did it without removing the coil by using ramps to maintain weight and pressure on the springs and a come-along to hold and align things when unbolting/ bolting the bearing mount.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Ditto. You don't need to remove the springs. First support the frame with a jack stand. Then use the jack to raise the lower control arm enough to compress the spring a little and prevent it from moving once you remove the guide rod bearing. I also did mine without removing the guide rod - just the bearing.

__________________
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

Replaced mine the other day and also did it with out removing the spring as was suggested here. Figured out that no way was the bolt going to come out from the top under the spring perch. I tried for about an hour and figured out that it couldnt be removed with out removing the spring.

So I got to thinking(dangerous on my part) and decided that if Ive gone this far that the only way to remove the bolt was to cut it off. Knowing that it is hardened steel... cutting it with a hacksaw wouldnt work... so I got out the torch and cut it.

Had to put it back together with the bolt upside down as there was no way it was going back in from the top. Im sure MB didnt want it installed that way for if the nut came off from the top the bolt would drop thru...but I will just keep an eye on it in the future to make sure nothing comes loose.

Had to use a bottle jack on an angle up against the lower control arm to move the lower arm slightly forward for the bushings and bolt to line up. I guess the design of the lower control arm gets pushed back into the rod if the bushing is removed. Better that way than the opposite as it probably would have popped the spring out if you arent careful as the lower arm has only one pivot point...and is subject to side loads that could pop the spring when the bushing and bolt are removed.

You're screwed now if that nut comes off the bolt because the bolt will simply drop out. If it does come out you will loose control of the car. There is a reason the bolt points downward and the nut is on the bottom. It is the same reason the bolt is under the spring (so it will not bounce out if the nut does come off). I suggest that you find a way to get the spring up high enough to reverse the bolt ASAP. In the mean time check the nut EVERYTIME you begin driving the car. Also check it every 5 miles or less.

I'm sorry you took the idea of not removing the spring to the point of reversing the bolt. The way to remove the bearing without removing the shaft is to leave the nut in place and simply turn the bearing itself by the adjustment point until it comes off the end.

__________________
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

The design was fail safe for a reason.

Correctly installed:
If the nut falls off, the lower spring perch retains the bolt against even the most extreme vibration or stress, makes a really nasty noise, but you can still drive it to a repair location.

As currently installed:
Simple impact with road junk combined with vibration could cause it to seperate, potentially leading to death, yours and/or others.

Guide Rod, Lower Control Arm Bushing and Eccentric Pin Replacement
on the 1985 300SD
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRod

W126 Guide Rod Mount Replacement
Suspension Bearing Bracket guide rod mount replacement
on the 1985 300SD
by whunter
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRod

Have a great day.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I've got to replace mine as well, where it connects to the lower control arm. I am missing the whole bottom half of the bushing! Somehow the bushing got loose enough so that the nut and bottom half fell off. So, if you ever hear or feel a clunking when you brake, definitly check these bushings. I really don't see how this can be replaced without removing the coil though, it's right in the way of the upper bushing and bolt. I could see maybe using a jack and unbolting the sway bar (upper control arm?) and shock and lowering the wheel so the coil loses compression and can come out. This would save on renting a coil compresser. Not sure if this would work or how safe it is either though.

Is this for the rear bearing (where the rod connects to the frame)?

SD Blue,
Could you please post more details on your process? I've got a bent rod and no desire to compress the spring.
Thanks!

__________________
Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi

I think you will need to compress the spring only if you are replacing the rod or its front (LCA) rubber.
The large rear bushing comes off with the aluminum bracket. No need to mess with the spring.
Count the number of turns required to remove the bushing from the rod. That will get you close to aligned when you reassemble.
There is a drain hole (notch) in the bushing. Make sure it is lined up correctly before you press it in the bracket. Compress the new bushing with a large hose clamp to aid in getting it started in the bracket.

I had a bunch of pics when I did this job. PC crashed and I lost it. I don't remember if there posted somewhere here or...

Sorry, but I don't see how it would work in your case. I was just replacing the normal wear part that fits in the bearing mount. With a bent guide rod, and that must have been one nasty rap, you are going to need to compress the spring in order to detach it from the LCA at the forward end. The coil spring compressor is available through the tool rental program for less than $40. (use only a compressor for MB springs, all others either won't fit the coil spacing or are not strong enough and dangerous!)

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

What tool rental program are you referring to?

Tool Rental Program
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=93