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#16
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valve
The only problem I had was leaking fuel from the valve stem. No other running problems except a little nailing (that was solved with diesel purge). A reasonable person could guess that air could leak IN from a faulty stem o-ring as much as fuel could leak OUT.
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#17
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Quote:
What is the part number?
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#18
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mb pn for 95 e300d shut off valve = 601-070-05-46
The valve is not pictured in the diagram.
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#19
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How about this one?
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#20
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Quote:
My '97 fuel filter is held on by a banjo bolt - not a valve. The only shutoff valve that I'm aware of (for a '97) is located on the IP.
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Neil 1997 E300D - naturally aspirated 280,000 miles (as of November 2015) |
#21
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That is what I am saying. I see the part number he listed but I don't see how there is any sort of valve in those pics or on my car.
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#22
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Quote:
This is the same area where most 96's and all 97-99's OM606's would have a bolt which the filter screws onto from below.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#23
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Quote:
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#24
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Rebuild Details
My 95 E300 Diesel ( 124 body ) started leaking from the fuel shutoff within hours of purchase.. which brought me to this thread. Its a few years old, so I thought I'd update it with details of the rebuild.
Disassembly was already discussed. The only difference is that the knob broke off when I was prying it up. Ambient temp was ~20 and wind chill ~11 degrees F, so I'll have to replace that at some point. The local Advance Auto had all of the metric O-Rings, but you have to tell them that there are trays of Dorman hardware in the back.. the young ones don't seem to know. The small O-Ring on the threaded shutoff valve is 4mm X 8mm by 2mm thick. The small O-Ring on the shutoff body is 8mm X 12mm X 2mm thick, and the large O-Ring on the shutoff body is 10mm X 15mm X 2.5mm thick. All three were less than $3.00. Assemble w/ fresh diesel fuel.. shouldn't be a problem finding that.. (once the filter falls off), and drive the roll pin back into place. Don't lose the roll pin, as they don't carry that size at your friendly FLAPS. If you bend it up on disassembly, and its too far gone to reuse, the FLAPS typically has a small assortment pack of "Hair Pin" type clips. I bought one, just in case, as it had a small pin that looked like it would work, but I got the original roll pin back in place. The whole operation took about a half hour, and beats the heck out of the $35, or $88 the good guys sell them for, or the $100+ the stealership sells them for. Enjoy yours. Last edited by mwoodland; 01-03-2010 at 09:56 PM. |
#25
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Thank you
Hey man, I wanted to thank you for the post! I was looking for Diesel Mercedes for while and I found a 1995 E300 with 140K, asking price $5900, which I guess is average at this time. I almost did not buy it because the first time a saw it I noticed a drip of Diesel coming from the left side of the engine compartment. So, I read through some of the post at this site and got an idea what it may be. Sure enough it was the shut off valve. I ended up getting the car for $4700, I went to Advanced Auto parts, got the three O-rings and fixed it right up. I had a hard time getting the roll out, had to drill it out, it would not budge, I just left off, I do not thing the valve is going unscrew itself. I am going to change the water pump and the thermostat, just because I had a radiator burst because of water pump/thermostat problem, other than that runs like a dream. So, thanks again for the info!
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#26
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Definitely consider the A 601 070 05 46 rebuild: use a 1/16" pin punch to drive out the retaining pin (about half-way out is far enough -- don't pull it all the way out). Then, unscrew the valve until separates: replace the smallest o-ring as noted above and put the valve back together. You just saved $125-$150. ;-)
You will find these o-rings here: http://www.amazon.com/M2x4-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWKME (Or, search Amazon for: diesel o-ring 2mm 4mm 8mm) Note that the large o-rings are included with the MB fuel filter. If replacing the pre-filter ( a few dollars more...might as well...) you will also need o-ring A 601 997 01 48 -- for some reason this is NOT included with the pre-filter. If you use biodiesel...this small o-ring will leak sooner than normal. The filter gets replaced every 6 months...so the larger o-rings on the outside get replaced. Be sure you replace this inner ring as well (maybe with a viton oring?). ;-) Last edited by evansdave; 11-26-2013 at 08:34 PM. |
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