Going to be changing the oil tonight in the dark... haven't even really looked yet... just hoping someone can save me a bit of fumbling around:

1. Is the oil filter a cartridge type up top or a spin off on the side of the engine?
2. How many quarts?
3. Anything to look out for? Planning on installing a new drain plug and gasket too...

Thanks...

There's an insert. On the top, left rear with a plastic cap. The torque rating is imprinted on the cap.

Mine takes about 7 quarts.

Don't know what your car is ?
Check this out.

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesdieseloilchange.htm

If you are starting to do your own maintenance check out his site, much valuable information and parts.


OOps if E330TD is your car this may not apply to you. but you will find the site invaluable.

__________________
1982 240D Euro Stick 4

The user name might provide a subtle hint.

Thanks guys!!!

Its a cartridge type. There are 3 o-rings, one goes on the plastic holder, above the thread. The other 2, smaller, go on the long 'spike' of plastic that holds the filter on. They're all different sizes so you can't get them mixed up.

The filter and filter holder unscrew together using the large plastic nut.

The filter can be stubborn to remove from its holder. Just grab it with something and pull hard.

I suggest while you're draining the engine oil, you partially remove the filter so that it drains through the engine.

The engine will take ages to drain, a good 15-20 minutes at least. Be careful if its windy, as once the flow has reduced to a trickle it will blow everywhere and make a mess.

If you don't have a new sump plug and washer, turn the copper washer around the other way when you screw it back on.

Check the plastic undertray - if it doesn't have drain holes, drill 1 or 2 into it. This helps the crossmember stop rusting.

You may find it easier to refill the engine using the oil filter holder - the opening is much larger than the filler cap on top of the cylinder head.

No, the filter is housed in an aluminum housing with a black plastic, screw-on cover. The cover has a large hex on it, something like 36mm, which you can find a socket for at Sears or any other tool source. The cover is sealed to the housing with an O-Ring along the circumference. The old units has a face seal which was a bit easier to get on and off, but the new arrangement merely requires you lube up the O-Ring and carefully slide it over the ~2" of plastic near-Acme threads in the cover.

The cover has an integral stem in it that pulls the filter out, and is a bit of a struggle to get it off the stem with the old filter soaked in used Diesel engine oil. The stem is slightly loose - kind of hinged at the connection to the inside surface of the cover.

The filter comes with three O-Rings, one for the cover to the housing and two smaller ones (two different sizes and it is visually apparent where each goes, unless you are really doing this in the dark) that fit on the pointy end of the integral cover stem. I usually lube them up with engine oil and slide them into their respective grooves, then shove the new filter on the stem (requires a bit of force and it seems there is no special orientatiion of the filter anymore - no bypass element), then insert the whole assembly into the housing. I always clean and lubricate the threads and O-Rings with engine oil then begin the threading of the cover into the housing. No lubricants and all that threading is likely to scuff the O-Ring(s) and possibly cause leakage.

I believe the manual says you need just over 8 quarts for this machine. I pour in two gallons of Devac 1, and never see the oil level light come on in the next 6,000 to 8,000 miles. Depending on the type of driving I do, I change oil in 6,000 miles (lots of starts and stops in cold weather) or 8,000 miles (mostly highway driving).
I believe the drain plug gasket (copper washer) comes with the filter, along with the O-Rings I mentioned in a little plastic bag. I use the "suck it out of the dipstick tube" method of getting the oil out, after warming the engine up to operating temperature. The oil is hot and it comes out quickly. Frequent oil changes with good oil are more important to me than the theoretical benefits of draining the last teaspoon of old oil out of the sump. The "suck it out the dipstick tube" method makes my threshold for oil changing so low, there is no excuse, and all my cars get better, or at least more regular, oil changes as a result. With the advent of under car aero and sound deadening panels that are in the way, that threshold was going in the wrong direction as I aged, especially in the winter months.

I just did the 1983 240D and then had to change the copper washer gasket at the drain plug as it was leaking. After sucking the oil out the dipstick (many devices available from boating stores) not a drop came out the drain plug hole when it was removed and replaced.

Do take note that the manufacturer recommends strongly (the warranty extension to 150,000 miles for oil related damage depends on this) that only synthetic oils be used in your 1998-99 E300D TurboDiesel. MB recommends specific oils as well. Delvac 1 is not on the list, but I believe that is merely an economic consideration - certifying an engine oil to MB's specs likely costs money and Mobil already has a number of them on the list so they are not really motivated. Delvac 1 has an additive package that is specifically formulated for Diesels though and uses the same base as the certified products. Also, I get it from my dealer - best price around, although it just went up, with a MB Club membership.
Hope this helps, and good luck. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Thanks again everyone... great information... Jim especially... thanks for the long and specific directions... that'll be a great help!

Going to do the radiator and rear diff as long as I'm dirty... taking it to the dealer for the tranny tomorrow... not going to mess with that... no tools / dipstick...

One more thing: if you get any oil on the valve stems from pouring it into the filler opening and not getting it all down the front, let the engine sit for fifteen minutes before starting.

I also recommend refilling through the filter opening.

You had best take a look at the 36mm hex on the oil filter housing and make certain you have something to get it off with. Most folks don't have that socket in their tool box....

It won't look as pretty as it does now if you remove it using a large pair of channel locks in the dark......

My 99 also requires 8qts. of (Syn only) oil.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I wrapped a few layers of masking tape around the "nut" section, and that made it tightly fit a SAE socket that I had. But you're right; I forget that I own more tools than most home mechanics.