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#31
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Tstat determines the MINIMUM termperature of the engine, given circumstances conducive (i.e. enough thermal transfer) - right?
Temp while at idle in traffic is determined by the ability of the thermal transfer system - coolant, two types of fans, radiator, etc - to deal with the extra heat - as they kick in the temp will never go back down below the set point. That said, I have had engines cool below the tstat set point on extremely long grades when the cooling effect was simply too great ... but, this was not excessive. Maybe we should do a poll more formally, asking where everyone's needle points in normal operations - i.e. when tstat is determining minimum temp. Do it by specific engine type, and look for the most common position. Both my previous 300CD and my current 350 SDL maintained temp so that needle pointed about one width above the 80C mark on the gauge.
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George Stephenson 1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet) former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car former 1985 300 CD - great car former 1981 300 TD - good car former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg |
#32
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that is where mine run. i cant remember what my 124 bodies did, it has been a good while since i had them.
when i first got the 350sdl it ran around 60. that is not good. i think it contributed to the sludging of the engine. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#33
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i am so confused on what thermostat to buy, at the moment my car doesnt have one, it hasn't had one for 4 months because the ones ive put in make the car over heat or run at 120
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#34
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Buy a Wahler from Auto Zone...it runs coolest...just above 80C
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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver) 1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky) |
#35
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Quote:
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#36
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well i just ordered one from dieselgiant. does anyone know off hand what the ones he sells are rated at? just curious.
also, other than the tstat working or not working correctly, not being the right temp rating for the right car, or having being modified....i have a 93 ford e150 van, it runs "hot" when on tour. but its really not. even when not loaded down and just using it as a daily driver...it reads hot. its because the temp sending unit is not accurate anymore. so even though the engine/tstat/coolant is correct and running cool and smooth, the gauge is showing hotter. the location of this sending unit, cost and the fact that its a van, being hard to work on, i have decided not to change it. have had it for four years, numerous tours across the states and have had no issues with it. just a thought.
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1980 300D |
#37
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Lots of Factors
There are a lot of factors affecting the quality and performance of products including tsats as we all know.
In theory, it should work as designed... but thats in theory and may not always work as designed. Thats why not same products perform the same. Variables include workmanship, material, installation, other components in the cooling system, etc. As said, Dieseldiant has a pictorial on drilling holes to help adjsut the temp. I believe that one big factor (covered in a discussion in this forum) affecting cooling performance is the oem radiator vs aftermarket. Based on the performance of my 84D (aftermarket rad) vs my 85D (oem rad), I beleive that the oem rad does not cool as well. The cooling performance of the rad has a direct bearing to the engine temp. I don't think this means that the oem rad is no good. Its just the the non-oem maybe more efficient (more surface area?). Of course the stat is a key element. The oem stat is designed to work with the other oem components in the engine. my 2 cents
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#38
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I'm not sure that's possible......
Although I did not make the attempt, from what I saw when I changed my thermostat about 10 days ago......I don't think it can be inserted backwards.....do not think that the thermostat will clear the housing if inserted backwards.....
SB BUT....don't forget the arrow....
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#39
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#40
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Well, after watching the temp gauge on my newly acquired 300CD wander around after replacing the thermostat with a brand new MB one I decided to replace the temp sender.
Same thing happened with the new sender...first start of the day the car would run warmer than I like - going up as high as 100C before dropping down, then when I would pull up to a light the temp would drop below 80C...so I went to NAPA and bought a WAHLER thermostat and replaced the MB one...now the temp seems to be rock steady at just above 80C on the gauge I have concluded that the MB T-Stat was defective...I call these "lazy" thermostats because they open late and close too slowly...anywho...it seems that I will be going back to the MB parts desk with this one and getting a refund as this Wahler is working fine.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#41
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Wow, lots of people chasing a problem that is not really a problem.
#1: I don't believe the temp gauge is really precise. As long as mine reads somewhere in between 85 and 105 C I do not worry about it. #2: I cannot think of anything wrong with the car running at 95C all the time. In fact that is a good operating temp. It's not good to consistently run the motor cool, and it's obviously bad to run it hot. |
#42
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Quote:
The MB stat I removed would spike over 100C and drop to under 80 during routine running...that's just wrong. The new Wahler behaves normally, the car warms up and the temp stays steady. These gauges are pretty accurate if they're working right, and this one is. A car which runs at 90C+ is above its design temp. When new, these cars ran at just above 80C...a car running at 95C-105C means either the gauge is wrong or the engine is running warm. 80-85C is not cool...it's normal for these.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
#43
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As far as your wild fluctuations in temperature, agreed, that was most definitely not normal! |
#44
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Nothing offical, I've heard the 80 C stats keep 90 degrees C. I have replaced two 80 Behr's both read 90 at gauge. For all it's worth.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#45
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oh yes they can be put in backwards!!!! don't ask how i know! tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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