Yep...piston wasn't all the way in.

I really need to invest in one of those piston spreader tools
...and yes, that's a bunch of dirt in there that I've now cleaned up.

Anyway, the metal piece that sits on top of the rubber boot came off while getting the piston back in. What a PITA. I had to get the metal piece re-positioned EXACTLY and then slip the new pad in.

So...new caliper??? I thought you could just rebuild these things with a caliper rebuild kit.

Chris
'85 300SD

Yep, you can.

But, be prepared for an adventure the first time you do it. Getting the pistons out of the bores is no cakewalk and getting them back in is also a PITA. Part of the problem is no good surface to apply force from a C-clamp.

The heat shields use a special tool to seat them below the piston surface without completely mangling them. I got them on the piston but never fully seated them. They should not sit above the piston face.

You need three hands to get the boot in place...........

Finally, if the piston has any corrosion that won't fully polish out, the rebuild won't be successful (leaks). Usually the polished chrome won't have permanent corrosion, but, with a long term boot failure, nothing is assured.

Sounds like a PITA enough job to justify paying for a rebuilt caliper. Thnx.

__________________
Chris
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2018 Honda Civic Sport
2018 Honda CRV LX
2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP)
2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold)
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)

Yep, I'd probably not rebuild a front caliper again. The rear calipers, however, seemed to go much easier..........no heat shield........

So...looking at pricing for reman. calipers...

Do the prices listed include the full caliper ready to drop in (just add pads?)
Or are these just the basic caliper bodies? (need to add pistons and whatever else?) I ask because the pix of the reman. calipers look incomplete.

Also, I'm not seeing any matching brands of reman. calipers for front left & right.
Is this a big deal if I have one brand on one side and a different brand on the other? Intuition says 'no' but I'm asking just in case.

Chris
'85 300SD

Yes. Two different brands on opposite sides might have different working pressures and cause it to pull when you apply the brakes.

OK guys. Thanks. I guess in my mind I was assuming that if it were an OEM caliper that the same standard for design would be followed and pressures would be equal.
At this point, it will be a hunt to find a matching set.

Chris
'85 300SD

Actually, intuition says to keep them from the same manufacturer. Small differences in manufacturing tolerance might just stack up to slightly more grab on one versus the other.

Cannot be positive........don't know of anyone who attempted it and failed.

There isn't really a shortage of either the Bendix or ATE so why mix them up?

__________________
1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

Because from the parts places I've checked, they'll have one brand that list availability for only the front/left and a different brand for the front/right.

If they had a listing for the same brand for both left/right front, the question would not have been raised. Hopefully when I call them, I'll get a different story and will be able to get the same brand for both sides.

Chris
'85 300SD