Hey guys and gals. Im sooo excited, picked up a 81 300sd this weekend, great body condition. However had a couple of questions about the engine.

I already have ordered new maintenance parts for it (air filter, oil filter, tranny filter, power steering filter, both fuel filters, MB coolant, and so on) and plan to change that all out before driving it anymore.

My concerns are as follows:

When at idle, sounds normal but when I get about 2-3k rpm, it makes a "fisst fisst fisst" sound, a sound that sounds like air escaping when under pressure. And there is a small amount of exhaust that is seen under the hood when that happens. Does that sound like a loose exhaust manifold, or something more serious? And if the noise does not bother me, can I just leave it without harm being done to the car?

When I start it up first thing in the morning, it takes a little bit to get it going, shakes around, and have to give it some gas (diesel) to keep it going for the first 15-30 seconds - then it smoothes out and no problems at idle. I have a banged up 79sd that can start without giving any gas, does not shake, and needs no help to keep it at idle at first - so I was concerned about this car.

The air filter in the car looks very very old. So I take that into consideration. But the pan, the vent hose that goes to the pan, and the filter seem to be very oily. Is that possibly because it has not been properly maintained and cleaned or should there be limited amount of oil in the air filter housing?

The car has a little bit over 250 thousand miles on it, should I be concerned about things like the timing chain?

The interior "woodgrain" is cracking and falling apart. Does anyone know where to get woodgrain colored stick on pieces for these cars, or generic pieces that I could cut to shape?

The car seems to pick right up and go. Takes off much quicker than my 79SD. It does shift somewhat hard when going from drive to reverse to park and so on, but I hope that feels a little better after changing the ATF fluid. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Oh btw, anyone in the phoenix area looking for a 79SD? Great engine, great interior, but the drivers side rear fender was hit pretty hard and put a nasty dent in the fender. Has been my daily driver for 6 months.

Thanks all!!!

Sounds like a leak in the turbo/intake somewhere. Sure its not just the turbo spinning up?
Check your glow plugs. Report back if there is no problem and the filters dont do the trick.
Check it when you do the valves.,
Find a pull a part or donor. You wont find the right pieces for cheaper. Its real zebrano not some printed stuff.... You can also refinish them fairly easily.


GL

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

All Diesels I've driven are sluggish when cold. Not rough though. You can investigate or take a chance on a set of fresh glow plugs.

Put some non-flammable liquid around the base of the injectors to see if the chuffing sound is a compression leak. If you see bubbles, try new injector seals.

Exhaust leak could be a failed accordion fitting in the exhaust manifold. It'll be a long time before a small exhaust leak causes engine damage but it might deteriorate rapidly and cause problems. AFAIK the manifold has to come off to replace the accordion.

Your immediate maintenance tasks should include checking valve clearance unless you have records to indicate it was done within the last 10K miles. The recommended interval is 15K miles. While the valve cover is off, align the cam timing marks and check how far off TDC the crank indicator is. Plan to roll in a new chain in a year or so if it's at 5* ATDC. You're on borrowed time if it's at 10* ATDC or beyond. That engine accepts offset keys to get timing back to spec. Two points - 1) if you use an offset key to restore cam timing, don't forget to check IP timing as well. 2) if it has an offset key in there now and any amount stretch; i.e., 4* offset key and 3* ATDC, roll in a new chain soon.

Check that the vacuum line from the IP to the transmission is clear of obstruction and securely in place.

No one sells replacement wood decals as far as I know. Check used part sources such as the parts forum for replacement wood panels. Get a set from a 500SEL or 560SEL if you prefer burl to zebrano

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

In my experience, exhaust coming up from under the hood was my cracked downpipe. You may also want to make sure the drain tube under the air filter housing is connected into the hole that goes to the oil pool. That could be the reason for an oily air filter housing and could smoke a little if the oil is dripping down to the exhaust side of the turbo.

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1983 MB 300SD Turbo Diesel

Thanks for the responses so far. So I guess ill see how she runs after doing all the maintenance. Now, I have not searched yet on adjusting valves, but if anyone feels like chiming in, is that a very difficult job to do for a DYI guy, or is that something that should be taken into the shop?

Thanks all.

You can DYI with the valve adjustment wrenches and a 27mm deep socket on the crank. It takes some practice to develop a feel for it, but it's not particularly hard.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

I have 1/42" thick zebrawood veneer, the same as zebrano in a benz, for sale if you want sheet. Minwax mahogany stain makes a close match. it is 29.5"x7.5" I would take $20.00 for the first sheet shipped, with each additional sheet 10 dollars.

Most aggravating is removal and reinstalling of cam cover, aka. valve cover. Take photos of linkage. I use a remote bump starter to rotate engine. Inexpesive and one handed. Hook up to two of the three wired screws on relay in engine bay. (on a 123, front most and rear most) Suggest new gasket, you don't know where it's been, however, not neccessary. With helper, very easy. Said helper will slide feeler in and out while you make adjustments, which will change when tightening lock nut. Special wrenches are not required (available from above site or elsewhere) yet... Otherwise, you'll need two 14mm open end, one shortened to accomodate the other. Keep us posted.

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83 SD

84 CD

Go to dieselgiant.com. Look under mercedes repair for the diy valve adjustment pictorial. That will give you an idea of what you're getting into. Looks pretty intimidating for a beginner, but it's not too tough. Toomany MBZ is right. The worst part is disassembling all the throttle linkage and what not to get the valve cover off...and then reassembling it when you're done. Personally, I think the valve adjusting wrenches make it A LOT easier, but they aren't too cheap.

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1983 MB 300SD Turbo Diesel

even before valve adjustments and manifold gaskets,
first change that air filter, and do then oil (quality diesel rated 5W-40) and fuel filter (both) change.
then give her another listen. nice login by the way..

your glowplug light coming on good and long before startup?

Great, thanks for all the info, very helpful forum. Just got my big box of filters ups today. Im gonna change them out this weekend and see how she runs. Ive got all the filters, but if anyone does not mind confiming my fluids below, I would appreciate it.

Coolant - zyrex (sorry not sure of spelling)

Transmission and power steering fluid change - standard ATF fluid

Oil - Castrol diesel rated oil, 5-40 (now I do live in Phoenix where temperatures are usually high, so would anyone recommend a different oil weight for my climate?)

I beleive thats all of the fluids I need.

And greasegeek, thanks for the offer. I will be interested in a few sheets from ya, just would like to get it going mechanically sound before working on appearance

Oh and edited to say, yes glowplug comes on for 5-10 seconds and goes out - of course before attempting to start.

Specifically Zerex G-05. If you're going with anything else such as green coolant, I don't think the Zerex brand gets a special recommendation.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

catrol makes a 5w40 synth?

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

No, Castrol does not, as far as I know. But I dont plan on adding synthetic oil 8 quarts of synthetic is gonna be expensive

You ought to do the brake fluid and differential too.

Len