There are powered extractors, and there are hand pumped vacuum extractors. You pump them up and create a vacuum. The tube has a clamp. Once you reach the specificied number of pumps you stick the tube in and release the clamp.

The tube needs to be fairly thin in diameter. The plastic needs to be somewhat heat resistant. You don't want to melt the end on the pan. Also the end of the tube should be cut at 45 degrees or so. This is to prevent the end of the tube from sealing to the bottom of the pan.

Steve

I think I read somewhere to change the oil while it's hot so you have a high enough drain velocity to keep solids in suspension.

With that in mind, I choose to change my car's oil using the drain plug. When I change the oil in my boat I have no choice but to use a top-side changer. I try to stroke the pump as quickly as possible to avoid dipping below the "settling velocity".

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Neil
1997 E300D - naturally aspirated
280,000 miles (as of November 2015)

I remembered incorrectly...

I found the following quote in my book: ..."warm oil drains more easily, and the contaminants will be suspended in it..."

So velocity shouldn't matter as long as you change the oil while warm.

Oh well, I just got a good forearm workout and the oil change was really quick!

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Neil
1997 E300D - naturally aspirated
280,000 miles (as of November 2015)

heres mine.I call it a mini sucker.

I built it out of a small pressure tank from an old under sink RO filter system.
the vac is applied by the salvaged A/C compressor which I had for my veggie sucker.
the line is that cheapo stuff that depot sells . i have 3/8 od on it, and can reduce to 1/4 od for the volvo.
I reckon I'll pull the plug annually.
Lying on a concrete floor when it is sub zero is no fun.

[IMG][/IMG]

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.