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#1
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Why do indies want so much $$ to R&R Lower Control Arm Bushings?
Is it me or is a $500-$750 just a bit high for lower control arm bushings?
From the searches I performed on the site it seems to be about a 2-3 hr. project, so why are these guys estimating 5-8 hrs of labor? And I got a quote for the rear (subframe) control arm bushings for 7-9 hr. of labor .Youve got to be kidding me! If I dont get these bushings done my calipers and new rubber will be toast in 500 miles- the bushings are turning to dust. Suggestions please!! I may end up renting a tool from someone online ShopForum person anyhow, but any advice is appreciated. I really would like to finish the suspension ASAP.
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1984 300D Last edited by DubMutant; 01-30-2007 at 10:50 PM. Reason: spelling |
#2
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oo subframe bushings can be a PITA... To remove and then install then put the subframe back in place(if its hard on a 126 its hard on a 123)
the LCA probably has to have tension taken off the springs so they have to be compressed and or removed so they dont fly out and kill someone . Just guessing from how it looks |
#3
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Here's my guess. It's because they are not estimating the time, they are using some sort of Flat Rate Manual that shows time by job.
Steve |
#4
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Best part is, they tend to quote you out of the "handtool" estimater while using power tools.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#5
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You know, I just had the lower control arm bushings done on my S320. I don't remember what they charged, but it was easily $600, and worth every penny. By the time you buy the bushings, buy the spring compressor, buy the tool, and then have to screw around with this suspension work, you might think twice.
Then there is the geographic factor. I can just imagine the difference in costs like property taxes, county taxes, city taxes, taxes taxes where you are in Massachusetts versus where I am in Tennessee. Also don't forget that after they cover their costs, parts, labor, and overhead, they might want to make a couple of hundred dollars in margin. Steve |
#6
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Quote:
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--------------------------- No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf |
#7
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I agree, but with a big caveat. If you have 5 MB's that you intend to keep forever and like projects like suspension bushings, then it makes sense. It also makes sense if you just like buying expensive new tools.
The original poster has exactly one MB. The economics are different. Everyone's situation is different. Personally, I chose to pay the shop for things that are either very nasty, beyond my skill level, require expensive one time use tools, or finally very complex projects where a screw up is $$$$. My opinion and I'm sticking to it. Steve |
#8
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grease monkey'd
Quote:
But, I am not too excited about purchasing a tool that I will use only one in a car's lifetime though, however, who's to say I won't replace the springs someday..... And, softconsult, as far as a 'margin', there is a difference between a 'margin ' and blatant highway robbery. As a college student with limited means, 500-750 is pretty much 2 months rent and food. (or 1/3 of my semester loans) Hmmmmm. food and shelter vs. buying a powerboat and alcohol for a greasy dishonest mechanic. Yeah. easy descision. The economics are different and I truly appreciate your ability to see that. I have yet to find a descent mechanic who dosent try to outright rob me, on this or any other vehicle, which is why I am on this forum. I too will farm out job that I cannot undertake, or those that will take up too much time or a screw up will be more costly that taking it to a mechanic. I guess that I am just frustrated because no mechanic wants to just do the job honestly and walk away. Still, my problem isn't solved.
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1984 300D Last edited by DubMutant; 01-30-2007 at 07:38 PM. Reason: adding thoughts |
#9
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As a former greasy, dishonest, alcoholic shop owner; I say tough. If you don't like the prices, DIY or buy a Toyota.
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#10
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or maybe they are trying to hi ball you because they may not want to work on your car. hoping you will take it elsewhere, i have seen that before
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1967 250 S 1967 280SE 1968 250S 1971 280 SE 1973 220 1974 280 S 1975 450 SEL 1976 220 D 1979 300SD 1983 300 SD 1985 230 TE euro 1986 280SL 1986 500 SEL euro 1986 190E 2.3 1990 300 SE 2003 C230 K 2004 C230 K 1987 560SEL 1987 300SDL now in canada 2005 C230 1998 C43 AMG Sold to DON 1993 190E 2.6 300TD Former daily driver Totaled current: R320 CDI Ram 2500 Cummins |
#11
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I think they are on the spot for pricing....
I mean you ARE throwing them a 23 years old MB... they KNOW it's not going to go as smooth as the book says. I wouldn't charge any less for that job if I had a shop. take, for example, a simple alignment job: 1984 Toyota Corolla SR5 with a S2000 engine in it - took the owner 2 hours - charged me 80 bux to align the car properly...in the whole time you watch him it's like some sweat shop worker - swearing, sweating, flaming (literally, at my stuck tie rods) WD40ing.... 1995 Mercedes Benz C220 - took the owner about 20 minutes - charged me 40 dollars....he just stood there and turned the tierod about 8 rounds and it was all good. in the end you probably got a better deal at that price. |
#12
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while i do agree this is a high price there are other things you have to consider... part cost on these cars are very high... not only do they have to pay for the part but they also have to be aware of the risk associated with a screw up and the cost incurred by this screw up. in my industry we call this risk a handling charge and it is a flat percentage of the part cost. so in this sense the high part cost gets considered twice. so take the part cost, double it and add a little (maybe 15-20%) for the owner to make a living and see what you get. if the parts are $50-100 then $500-$600 is unreasonable, on the other hand if the parts are $200 to $250 then i would say this is not out of line. if the guy does Mercedes night and day he should eat a little more of the risk. all in all we are a market economy, if there was a huge need for Mercedes suspension rebuilds the guy down the street would beat his price, sounds like we as Mercedes owners are the victim of high part cost and low demand
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#13
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$70/hr plus the special tools...
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#14
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Well, as you can see, you are getting no sympathy.
I think I am safe in saying that most of us have been there done that relative to driving old cars and being basically broke. When I returned to college after Vietnam, I luckily had a new VW bug. It was financed. If it had been a car that required much in the way of repairs I would have been screwed. I was barely scraping by and couldn't have come up with money for major hits. The world doesn't work the way you think it should. It is not at all relevant that you can't afford to pay the apparent going rate to have your car fixed. The situation does not make the shop dis-honest. They know their costs and they can charge whatever they see fit. Sincerely, Good luck. Steve |
#15
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Id have to say that ...they dont want to work on the car.
I source all of my parts and purchase them dirt cheap, so when I call a shop I ask for LABOR estimate only. I mean, LABOR is the risk- not the part. Am I wrong here? for example, if I were a high-rise window washer, I would demand a high salary because the actual JOB itself is a risk- I wouldnt demand high payment for my window washing fliud, now would I? It is the same fluid used on the street...right?
So, in my estimation, $60-$90 per hour is a fine living for a mechanic. But now he wants to jack prices on parts 75% too. Ethically, you cant charge someone 1/5 the cost of the entire value of an automobile for a service job that is to be done by someone whose JOB it is to fix things. The mentality of a professional mechanic is like that of a lawyer that works for Dewey, Cheetum and Howe. Yes, this statement is baseless, offensive, and distesteful, but, from my mechanic experience, you walk into their shop and they say to themselves, "How much can I squeeze this sucker for?" I am not a sucker. I will get this done and then share with the world exactly how I did it and the total cost. I suppose that this thread exposes the nature of the beast. The harder the job seems, the more likely one is to be taken advantage of. So, my feeling is that, because I refuse to be taken advantage of and asked for a fair labor price, the shops do not see a high profit margin from having me as a custmer. Never mind the chance to help out your fellow human just trying to make it. Never mind the reputation that may come with being honest. Nah. It is way easier to simply deny me fair service and make the same ridiculous profit from some other poor jacka$$ for a tune up, oil change and rotation. (All of which I can do in 1 hour on my VW). I am not looking for sympathy. Just tossing ideas around. Also, as far as there being alot of 23 yr. old Mercedes around, well, here I am, in the home of the GreaseCar Company and all day every day you see neuvo-hippies rolling around in their greased 300D's, so there should be some competition, eh? We all know that neuvo-hippies are cheap, no? Thats why they run on grease....
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1984 300D Last edited by DubMutant; 01-30-2007 at 09:19 PM. Reason: spelling, add-a-thought |
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