Is it me or is a $500-$750 just a bit high for lower control arm bushings?
From the searches I performed on the site it seems to be about a 2-3 hr. project, so why are these guys estimating 5-8 hrs of labor? And I got a quote for the rear (subframe) control arm bushings for 7-9 hr. of labor .Youve got to be kidding me!
If I dont get these bushings done my calipers and new rubber will be toast in 500 miles- the bushings are turning to dust.

Suggestions please!! I may end up renting a tool from someone online ShopForum person anyhow, but any advice is appreciated. I really would like to finish the suspension ASAP.

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1984 300D

oo subframe bushings can be a PITA... To remove and then install then put the subframe back in place(if its hard on a 126 its hard on a 123)

the LCA probably has to have tension taken off the springs so they have to be compressed and or removed so they dont fly out and kill someone . Just guessing from how it looks

Here's my guess. It's because they are not estimating the time, they are using some sort of Flat Rate Manual that shows time by job.

Steve

Best part is, they tend to quote you out of the "handtool" estimater while using power tools.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

You know, I just had the lower control arm bushings done on my S320. I don't remember what they charged, but it was easily $600, and worth every penny. By the time you buy the bushings, buy the spring compressor, buy the tool, and then have to screw around with this suspension work, you might think twice.

Then there is the geographic factor. I can just imagine the difference in costs like property taxes, county taxes, city taxes, taxes taxes where you are in Massachusetts versus where I am in Tennessee.

Also don't forget that after they cover their costs, parts, labor, and overhead, they might want to make a couple of hundred dollars in margin.

Steve

You must be joking. It's a good excuse to go buy new tools. When one is a multi-Benz owner, these tools pay for themselves over time. Especially when somebody is always coming to your house to work on their Benz too.

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No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf

As a former greasy, dishonest, alcoholic shop owner; I say tough. If you don't like the prices, DIY or buy a Toyota.

or maybe they are trying to hi ball you because they may not want to work on your car. hoping you will take it elsewhere, i have seen that before

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1967 250 S
1967 280SE
1968 250S
1971 280 SE
1973 220
1974 280 S
1975 450 SEL
1976 220 D
1979 300SD
1983 300 SD
1985 230 TE euro
1986 280SL
1986 500 SEL euro
1986 190E 2.3
1990 300 SE
2003 C230 K
2004 C230 K
1987 560SEL
1987 300SDL now in canada
2005 C230
1998 C43 AMG Sold to DON
1993 190E 2.6
300TD Former daily driver Totaled
current:
R320 CDI
Ram 2500 Cummins

I think they are on the spot for pricing....

I mean you ARE throwing them a 23 years old MB... they KNOW it's not going to go as smooth as the book says.

I wouldn't charge any less for that job if I had a shop.

take, for example, a simple alignment job:
1984 Toyota Corolla SR5 with a S2000 engine in it - took the owner 2 hours - charged me 80 bux to align the car properly...in the whole time you watch him it's like some sweat shop worker - swearing, sweating, flaming (literally, at my stuck tie rods) WD40ing....
1995 Mercedes Benz C220 - took the owner about 20 minutes - charged me 40 dollars....he just stood there and turned the tierod about 8 rounds and it was all good.

in the end you probably got a better deal at that price.

$70/hr plus the special tools...

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Well, as you can see, you are getting no sympathy.

I think I am safe in saying that most of us have been there done that relative to driving old cars and being basically broke. When I returned to college after Vietnam, I luckily had a new VW bug. It was financed. If it had been a car that required much in the way of repairs I would have been screwed. I was barely scraping by and couldn't have come up with money for major hits.

The world doesn't work the way you think it should. It is not at all relevant that you can't afford to pay the apparent going rate to have your car fixed. The situation does not make the shop dis-honest. They know their costs and they can charge whatever they see fit.

Sincerely,

Good luck.

Steve

I source all of my parts and purchase them dirt cheap, so when I call a shop I ask for LABOR estimate only. I mean, LABOR is the risk- not the part. Am I wrong here? for example, if I were a high-rise window washer, I would demand a high salary because the actual JOB itself is a risk- I wouldnt demand high payment for my window washing fliud, now would I? It is the same fluid used on the street...right?
So, in my estimation, $60-$90 per hour is a fine living for a mechanic. But now he wants to jack prices on parts 75% too.
Ethically, you cant charge someone 1/5 the cost of the entire value of an automobile for a service job that is to be done by someone whose JOB it is to fix things.
The mentality of a professional mechanic is like that of a lawyer that works for Dewey, Cheetum and Howe. Yes, this statement is baseless, offensive, and distesteful, but, from my mechanic experience, you walk into their shop and they say to themselves, "How much can I squeeze this sucker for?"

I am not a sucker. I will get this done and then share with the world exactly how I did it and the total cost.


I suppose that this thread exposes the nature of the beast. The harder the job seems, the more likely one is to be taken advantage of.

So, my feeling is that, because I refuse to be taken advantage of and asked for a fair labor price, the shops do not see a high profit margin from having me as a custmer. Never mind the chance to help out your fellow human just trying to make it. Never mind the reputation that may come with being honest. Nah. It is way easier to simply deny me fair service and make the same ridiculous profit from some other poor jacka$$ for a tune up, oil change and rotation. (All of which I can do in 1 hour on my VW).

I am not looking for sympathy. Just tossing ideas around.

Also, as far as there being alot of 23 yr. old Mercedes around, well, here I am, in the home of the GreaseCar Company and all day every day you see neuvo-hippies rolling around in their greased 300D's, so there should be some competition, eh? We all know that neuvo-hippies are cheap, no? Thats why they run on grease....

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1984 300D

Yes, you are wrong - there is plenty of risk associated with installing parts where the prime consideration for purchase is "dirt cheap" costs.

Good luck with your plan but I'm guessing you are not going to be able to find an independent shop where you will be able to dictate the terms and conditions under which the shop owner will complete the repair.

I don't know about W123's but I've done a set of lower control arm bushings on a W124, several special tools are required. Parts alone were over $100 as I recall - I don't think $500-$700 is at all unreasonable for the job.

2x eccentric pin kit - total $39.00, 19..50 each- OEM (Mercedes)
2x bushing kit, lower inner - total $36.90 , 18.95 each - (Lemforder)
2x Bushing Kit, lower inner - total $25.00, 12.50 each - OEM (Febi-Bilstein)

total parts cost - $100.90
free shipping

That is cheap. And yes, I do expect a shop owner to do a requested job at an estimated price, within reason. Don't you? I mean, you are an educated consumer, aren't you?
You dont walk into a barber shop and ask for a $10 haircut and walk out after spending $50. At least I dont.

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1984 300D

First they are probably quoting book time for the job, mechanics count on being able to beat that to make money. Secondly its a pita job, more so considering its a 23 year old MA car. Every freaken bolt is going to be seized and need to be snapped or cut off. Suspension work on old northern cars sucks its horrible, everything is rusted and seized.

$500 seems like a fair price.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200