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#1
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Headlight doors, possible repair questions....
Folks,
I ask this question here in diesel because most of the good mechanics as well as the experimental type folks visit here... Has anyone tried, and been successful in separating the front clear cover from the grey back portion of the headlight doors on 123's?? I have a pair of beat, dinged up headlight doors on my 300D....and I have come upon a pair of used headlight doors.....the one with a near perfect clear front has a broken attachment studs....and the other is a slightly different color, but the clear cover portion is way better than what I have..... ...was wondering if anyone else has tried to separate these parts and reassemble them.??? I can make a real good set IF this can be done somehow, successfully.... SB
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#2
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I would practice with some bad ones. You can probably use heat and gentle prying to separate them similar to the way you can disassemble late model headlights for painting.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#3
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I think if I begin to practice/operate on any of these.....they may become "bad' ones.....
But heat, and a thin blade was what I am thinking..... SB
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#4
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i would suggest trying to change the back portion rather than the clear. a joint there will not be seen. i would try to transfer either the studs or cut off the part they are in and glue it to the good front.
i tried a few years back totake the clear plastic off the front of an instrument cluster. it didnt work. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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If I were to glue the studs back on.....what sort of glue do you folks think will work??
I have most of the usual supplies here, on hand......hot glue gun, gorilla glue, JB weld, some epoxy.....and so forth..... Gluing the studs back on will result in a joint under tension......not sure what will hold...... Note: the studs are broken off.....plastic to plastic joint.....not the studs pulled out of the plastic...... SB
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
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