Hey guys-

Can someone have a look at my subframe mount bushing and let me know if it's time to replace? Pic is of the left bushing.

Car seems to drive fine at high speed but it feels like it tracks side/side on grooved pavement.

I had the front end rebuilt about 6 mos ago. Not sure if/when the PO did any repairs to the rear end.

Thanks-
Rob

79 300SD
399K

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hve them changed - you won't believe the difference in ride, ride height and control...
Jake

looking at the amount of rubber shown in the bushing, the rubber is almost fully compressed. a new bushing will show about 2 inches more height than in the photo



bill

Can someone post a diagram showing exactly where on the car the subframe bushing wear can be examined (as in the 1st post picture)

thanks!

...using the Baylor method that I think I saw here in a search. I'll be using the 1/2" threaded rod and using the weight of the vehicle to drive out the old bushings. Can someone confirm that the attached setup is correct?

I don't understand if the car underbody is supposed to bear against the big fender washer at the top, the top of the 1/2" rod, or something else. I also don't get why the method calls for leaving a half-inch of exposed thread above the top washer. Seems like I'd poke a hole in the car if I loaded it onto just the 1/2" rod.

Do I need a block of wood between the top of the pressing tool and the underbody of the car?

Thanks!
Rob

Attached Files

File0074.pdf (54.6 KB, 241 views)

how hard is to actually change these things, mine ar not that bad but are getting there, is it something that i would be able to do or should i take her to the shop?

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82' 300SD

You can do these yourself with a little effort. I did my front and rear suspension last summer/ fall in my driveway. I used some pry bars to get the subframe bushings out, they weren't as hard as they look. When you reinstall the subframe mount use a bottle jack as a leverage point to get the bolt started. All that will make sense when you get there. Do a search you will find a wealth of info right here. Good luck.

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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

The 24mm bushing bolt goes up though the bushing into a tube in the body of the car. The top of the 1/2" threaded rod fits into the tube that the bushing bolt goes in and the nut keeps it from going in too far and munging the threads inside. You might want another washer on top of that upper nut to keep the nut from munging the end of the tube and to help keep that upper nut from tuning and allowing the threaded rod to go too deep into the tube.

Also, I had to put pressure on the bushing bolt to get it to align with the threads. Ended up with some sort of bizarre contraption of a socket, with an extra 24mm nut inside as a spacer and a chunk of 1/2" square rod in the socket's ratchet hole, all pushed up against the bolt with a bottle jack. It was the only way I could figure out how to push (gently) on the bolt with a jack and still be able to turn the bolt. Figuring that out was by far the most time consuming part of the job.

FYI, on the 617 diesels, there isn't a rubber piece between subframe and body -- there's a stop bracket instead. Make sure you get the right kit -- it should come with two new stops that are mirror images of each other (mine wern't, but I was able to reuse the old stop).

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

Hey Hope this has gone well for you. I've been way too busy. I did a search and found my old posts but I don't see the pictorial that I was referring to. It was here somewhere!! I used a couple of pry bars to remove the rubber mount from the subframe. Yes a cheap ball joint press from harbor freight worked well to remove and install the trailing arm bushings. If I can help any send me a PM.

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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

Yes, you can do the "Baylor" method without dropping the differential. It's how I did mine. However, from your description of the tracking problem, I would definitely suspect those trailing arm bushings. I had one that was nearly gone that caused strange tracking problems on mine. They can appear OK until you drop the trailing arm.

When you decide to do them, you will need an MB spring compressor. And unless you are young, Epsom salts for the tub soak afterwards......doing that much work on a suspensions is a workout!

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I second that. Suspension work can be a lot of work. I think my subframe and trailing arms took me all day. I got hung up on figuring out how to get the parking brake free and wasted a lot of time.

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~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net