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  #1  
Old 02-04-2007, 02:19 PM
kartoffelpanzer's Avatar
Rob
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 63
Call on my subframe mount bushings

Hey guys-

Can someone have a look at my subframe mount bushing and let me know if it's time to replace? Pic is of the left bushing.

Car seems to drive fine at high speed but it feels like it tracks side/side on grooved pavement.

I had the front end rebuilt about 6 mos ago. Not sure if/when the PO did any repairs to the rear end.

Thanks-
Rob

79 300SD
399K

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Call on my subframe mount bushings-_dsc0001.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2007, 04:25 PM
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w123 and w203
 
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Location: Southtowns of Buffalo, NY
Posts: 530
Hve them changed - you won't believe the difference in ride, ride height and control...
Jake
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2007, 07:13 PM
Mercedes Diesels Forever
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by kartoffelpanzer View Post
Hey guys-

Can someone have a look at my subframe mount bushing and let me know if it's time to replace? Pic is of the left bushing.

Car seems to drive fine at high speed but it feels like it tracks side/side on grooved pavement.

I had the front end rebuilt about 6 mos ago. Not sure if/when the PO did any repairs to the rear end.

Thanks-
Rob

79 300SD
399K
looking at the amount of rubber shown in the bushing, the rubber is almost fully compressed. a new bushing will show about 2 inches more height than in the photo



bill
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  #4  
Old 02-16-2007, 12:23 AM
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Posts: 65
Can someone post a diagram showing exactly where on the car the subframe bushing wear can be examined (as in the 1st post picture)

thanks!
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  #5  
Old 03-20-2007, 06:46 PM
kartoffelpanzer's Avatar
Rob
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 63
Trying it this weekend...

...using the Baylor method that I think I saw here in a search. I'll be using the 1/2" threaded rod and using the weight of the vehicle to drive out the old bushings. Can someone confirm that the attached setup is correct?

I don't understand if the car underbody is supposed to bear against the big fender washer at the top, the top of the 1/2" rod, or something else. I also don't get why the method calls for leaving a half-inch of exposed thread above the top washer. Seems like I'd poke a hole in the car if I loaded it onto just the 1/2" rod.

Do I need a block of wood between the top of the pressing tool and the underbody of the car?

Thanks!
Rob
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File Type: pdf File0074.pdf (54.6 KB, 202 views)
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  #6  
Old 03-20-2007, 07:49 PM
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how hard is to actually change these things, mine ar not that bad but are getting there, is it something that i would be able to do or should i take her to the shop?
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  #7  
Old 03-20-2007, 08:10 PM
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1983 300SD, 4 speeed
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Raleighish, NC
Posts: 664
You can do these yourself with a little effort. I did my front and rear suspension last summer/ fall in my driveway. I used some pry bars to get the subframe bushings out, they weren't as hard as they look. When you reinstall the subframe mount use a bottle jack as a leverage point to get the bolt started. All that will make sense when you get there. Do a search you will find a wealth of info right here. Good luck.
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1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2007, 09:36 PM
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Location: Dallas
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not real easy

You have to unbolt the diff and drop it then you can unbolt one subframe and replace the bushing, then do the other. Not super hard, but not easy either. You need to disconnect your rear brake calipers from the hubs (hang from sway bar with zip ties or wire) and disconnect the parking brake (PITA to get off and reattach) so you won't stress them as you drop the subframe.

You won't need a bottle jack to start the big bolt in the subframe bushing if you just raise the diff back up to level - that gives you the angle you need to easily start the bolt.

Actually removing and replacing the bushing is not the hard part - it's getting to the point where you can drop the subframe enough to get to it that is a bear (a lot of work). As the post earlier said you can use a small pry bar to go around and get it out and use a big c-clamp to press it in)
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As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2007, 10:31 PM
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1983 300SD, 4 speeed
 
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I never dropped the differential. Didn't unhook e brakes either. Just took calipers off and hung them, placed jack under..wait a minute there is a good pictorial someplace around here with all of this information. A pretty straight forward write up. It might be on diesel giants page if you can't find it under the search function button at the top. There really is no need to drop the differential.
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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon
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  #10  
Old 03-20-2007, 10:36 PM
crashone's Avatar
1983 300SD, 4 speeed
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Raleighish, NC
Posts: 664
While you're at it...

Replace the trailing arm bushings now so you don't have to drop subframe again for a while. Might as well replace the rear Z links and stabilizer mounts too. How old is the differential mount? If you can't get all of that now at least do the trailing arm bushings. The other stuff is fairly easy to get to.
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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon
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  #11  
Old 03-21-2007, 02:44 AM
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Rob
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 63
Planning on new diff mount, as well

I'm planning on replacing the differential mount, as well.

I'm planning on doing each subframe mount bushing first, then swapping out the differential mount. I checked out the trailing arm mounts and they still seem to be in pretty good shape...was planning on these if I need to do an axle or new strut.

Crash, if you can find that pictoral please let me know. I've searched a lot...the best I could find was the description of the Baylor technique:

http://diymbrepair.com/easley/sframe.htm

There's no mention of having to drop the differential or hang the calipers here...is the write-up pretty accurate?

My car's a W116...not sure if that has any bearing as well, from what I understand they're pretty straightforward to work on back there.

Rob
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2007, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
diff

That probably is true (not dropping the diff).

When I did mine I *WAS* doing lower control arm bushings at the same time as the mounts. You have to drop the sub frame pretty far to allow enough clearance to allow the bolts to come out of the trailing arm (trailing arm has to be lower than the frame, otherwise the bolt backs into the frame and you can't get it out! ugh)
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~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2007, 02:05 PM
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Is the w124 chassis procedure similar? Any forum links to pictorials?
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  #14  
Old 03-21-2007, 02:09 PM
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Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
Yes, you can do the "Baylor" method without dropping the differential. It's how I did mine. However, from your description of the tracking problem, I would definitely suspect those trailing arm bushings. I had one that was nearly gone that caused strange tracking problems on mine. They can appear OK until you drop the trailing arm.

When you decide to do them, you will need an MB spring compressor. And unless you are young, Epsom salts for the tub soak afterwards......doing that much work on a suspensions is a workout!
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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2007, 02:31 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
workout

I second that. Suspension work can be a lot of work. I think my subframe and trailing arms took me all day. I got hung up on figuring out how to get the parking brake free and wasted a lot of time.

__________________
~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net
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