College, winter, and an old worn out diesel
 

Got my car back on the road yesterday for the first time in two months. I had been doing a lot of stuff to it, including a much needed banjo bolt cleaning, PS fluid and filter, transmission oil and filter, wheel refinishing, and a two tank WVO system. It was 11 degrees yesterday morning, plugged in the block heater for an hour (was at home) and trickle charged the battery at the same time for good measure. Car started first crank. Ran the 180 mile trip down to school, all is well. Parked it in the structure. Today it was 19, of course no block heater being at school. Double glow, crank slowly, then slower, and no start. I was pretty bummed about that. So I rode the bike to work (like I've been doing).

I have decent compression, I have not done a test but when I remove the oil filler cap when the car is fully warm, and set it on top of there, it doesn't move at all. I've cold started with no block heater below freezing before. Glowplugs are fine, as is the relay (checked using Dieselgiants page). My battery gives out almost 12 volts cold, I would consider replacing it except that I am a broke college student. Same with the starter: if I have to replace it I'm just going to bike and drive in warmer weather. One problem is that I have the regular 15W40 oil in it, I've only driven 4,000 miles since I got the car in August so I haven't quite gotten to the 3,000 mile mark yet. After some scouting out, I have discovered exactly three light poles with plugs in them, all in one little lot that always seems to be full. I don't think plugging in is an option.

Here is what I am thinking of doing. I'll get a nice little rubbermaid battery box, and bring it into the dorm room after I'm done driving for the day. Then put in the nice warm, happy battery for start up. My main concern for this is is it very dangerous for in the dorm? I know these things occasionally blow up, but there shouldn't be any spark near it if I have just the battery sitting in the box alone (no metal or anything). I'll also try to find a way to put some lighter oil in it, I have the tools, I'll just jerry rig a catch pan (and I've even got a funnel, so I can pour the old stuff back in the jugs from what I put in to take to the recycler). Do you think these two measures will help? Like I said, the car starts fine if it is just a little warmer, and I have very little money so if it needs a new battery, starter, and altenator to start right I'll just ride the bike and drive when its warm enough to start.

Thanks.

How old is that battery? Cold is just as bad for them as is 100+ degree heat is.

Removing it to keep it warm is ok, and as long as you do not put it on a charger, the hydrogen gas usually is not formed. You will get a good work out removing and installing the battery every day, though. You will need to be careful installing and removing the battery, and the terminal can get damaged from the constant on/off of the leads.

Synthetic oil will make a big difference in cold temperature starting.

mine didnt start early this winter at 5*F with rotella 15-40 in it. switched to M1 0-40, and re-adjusted the valves, and now she starts at -11*.
no block heater.
of course, 8 qts of that Mobil1 is almost as much as a battery.:eek:

almost 12v isnt always enuf 11.5 is 50% discharged

this is probably stupid, but i thought battery's were 12V tops. or am i wrong?

Wrong, I think 13.5 is a good new battery, maybe even like 13.7.

I got the car in July, so don't have an idea how old it is. Sounds like an oil change is in order, and a new battery if the money kicks in sometime. Tomorrow it is supposed to be 40, so I'll get someone to give me a jump and should start right up, after that it'll be in the teens for a while so we'll see how it goes.

if you go to joe schmoe's auto house they can tell you the age of the battery by the stickers on it. something about the numbers and letters gives them the production month and year. they did this for me once and it turns out the battery was rather old.

12.6v for a fully charged battery at room temp.

I wouldn't bother until you have a good battery.

You definitely want to see something over 12.45

Yep....my battery usually shows 12.56 on my multimeter...and 12.5...ish...on my gauge in the car.

Hey, TWeatherford, are you going to EKU? What is your major? Have a relative going there, not a diesel or car person though.

I'm an ag major at WKU, actually. I'll have the battery checked today. Thanks all.

It sounds like you have a healthy engine, low blow by and good compression. The next biggest problem for an old Diesel is glow plugs. I presume yours are ok. After that it is the speed of the engine during starting. A cold block is like a huge heat sink. A slow starting speed means the heat of compression gets sucked into the block, and you have a set of conditions that won't sustain ignition of the fuel. There are three main culprits for a slow engine rpm during starting - a weak starter from too much extended cranking, a worn battery from too many deep cycles trying to start a cold engine, and oil that is too thick. Oil is easier and cheaper to deal with than either of the other two.

Someone has already suggested using Mobil 1 or another synthetic, which is an excellent suggestion. I use Delvac 1, a Mobil 1 product specifically formulated for Diesel engines. It comes only as 5W-40 in silver gallon jugs. I believe you can get it in quart bottles relabeled as Mobil 1 Diesel Truck and SUV oil, but I have personally never seen it. But any synthetic product for Diesels will do. Jim