What year would you buy in a 123???? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

richclan · #16 03-01-2007, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry edwards

The one exception to the early climate control servo problem, would be if the PO had upgraded it to the newer aftermarket solid state substitute system. If that was done, I don't see a huge difference between the later automatic climate controls and the earlier.

please define "po" and is there a quick check to see if the car is upgraded? because I know 1st hand how vac. leaks are soooo much fun; NOT!!!

So i gather if this 83 is as good as defined

i should snatch it up?
Oh yea the 260k miles should not be a problem if it has low blow-by and runs strong; right? I know it has the orig. t. chain in it (just rememdered that).
Thanks for all the replies

VWGuru&BenzFan · #17 03-01-2007, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richclan

please define "po" and is there a quick check to see if the car is upgraded? because I know 1st hand how vac. leaks are soooo much fun; NOT!!!

So i gather if this 83 is as good as defined

i should snatch it up?
Oh yea the 260k miles should not be a problem if it has low blow-by and runs strong; right? I know it has the orig. t. chain in it (just rememdered that).
Thanks for all the replies

P.O. = Previous owner.

Also - check for rust.

diesel don · #18 03-01-2007, 07:44 PM

I've run 10-12 of the 82-85's. I've had tranny issues (some vac related) with the 83's. Some of that is simply random, but my 84's have really performed. Have run (2) 84's with unbelievable track records.

diesel don

bgkast · #19 03-01-2007, 07:44 PM

If it's not rusty it sounds like a deal.

diesel don · #20 03-01-2007, 07:45 PM

To back up Kerry's comments, someone once said to buy for the body, because you can always fix the mechanical stuff. I'd have to agree with that.

diesel don

sailor15015 · #21 03-01-2007, 07:45 PM

The best test of the condition is to start it stone cold in the coldest weather available to you, like first thing in the morning. It might stumble a bit which could be just a bad plug, but if it fires right off take that as a sign the engine has many more miles left in it. If it really is an OEM trans for that price, I'd jump on it. About that mileage is when ppl start to have trans issues so if yours is new you should be good to go as far as really major repairs for a long while. As long as the t-chain doesn't have excessive stretch, it doesn't matter if its original. Excessive stretch, however, is a matter of opinion.

Rashakor · #22 03-02-2007, 09:29 AM

For all the reasons above i do not think buying an 85 is actually the best option. Specialized parts for 1985 year only are difficult to find in junkyards and tend to be significantly more expensive than for other years if you buy them new.

The best cars if you really want to focus on years are the 83-84. No pesky electronics yet or anymore, correct rust proofing, no funky suspension parts (85). Of course check condition (this trumps everything) but if you are reading an ad in the net or newspaper 83-84 is the real best option.

juanesoto · #23 03-02-2007, 09:44 AM

I'll try to an 81-84 euro model. I have an 82, and trust me, that thing is a tank!! Manual A/C, manual tranny (4-speed), no funky electronics (cruise control, sliding roof, rear view mirror, etc.). The only electric accesory in the car is the power windows and the stereo.

It's has a NA engine, but that thing puts out just enough power to be happy. Huge torque, you can pass another under usual circumstances and it you have a pretty decent top speed of 100 MPH if you floor it.

With the manual tranny you don't have the lag feel turbo/auto 123's have, and if you feel like needing a higher top speed, you can always get a 5-peed manual and the swap is a piece of cake....

Also if you feel you need extra ponies, you'll have the best platform to start from... just take out the NA engine and put a turbo engine in place, using the NA flywheel and clutch compound.

EdmondsAve · #24 03-02-2007, 01:51 PM

After thinking about it, I probably made a rash decision to buy my 85 300Dt. I had a perfectly good buick century, with no problems and only 120k, but I had a friend who needed a car, and offered me $1500 for the buick if I was to buy the mercedes, which was only $900. The car had sat up for over a year, and before that had sat for 3 before being drivin regularly for a few months. Keep in mind I'm a 1st time Mercedes owner, so I'm still learning, and theres a few things that could've been avoided, so don't make too much fun ;D. Here's an abridged list of things I've had to repair/replace to date, or have at least diagnosed:

Bad/faded paint (it was like that when I bought it, but I try not to judge a book by its cover) - $400 if I get a good deal from a personal friend like i've been promised
Worn out shocks - around $250 if you do it yourself and buy your shocks on ebay ;D DONE!
Rear CV Axles - totally preventable had I known about the CV Boot problem, but once again, I'm still an amateur

On Order
Cracked/ripped/dry rotted rear seat - A victim of neglect and sun damage, its only the piece of fabric that runs along the rear top of the seat connecting to the 'back dash' or whatever its called. padding is shot there as well. $???
Cracked/worn wood trim - I wouldve done this anyways, as the color of the wood (crap brown) is nasty, but I'm currently sanding, restaining and sealing the trim. about $30 so far
seats worn out - I'll probably do the pool tubing fix, but not near as sloppy as I've seen so far. $20?
Steering box is lose techs said it has to be replaced. abt $150 i think
Oil leak - Broken elbow piece on Oil recirculation valve. $3 DONE!
Cracked Windshield - prolly $150
Valve Adj - hasnt been done in years, but I'm afraid to **** up the throttle linkage. Maybe this weekend. $???
Tires worn by crappy suspension - $250 at the least
New Stereo, all new speakers - $300 incl installation, and the pieces or trim 'Sircuit ****ty' broke cause theyre retarded.
Bad A/c Compressor - prolly around $400 incl parts and labor

This is all I can think of for now....I'll add more later

bgkast · #25 03-02-2007, 03:20 PM

Yeah, but at least you don't have to drive a Buick Century any more. My Grandma has one of those.

richclan · #26 03-03-2007, 12:19 AM

Well i guess that so far its an 83 - 84 if i want a 300D w/turbo because:
1. better without a computer brain.
2. more reliable vacuum pods for HVAC
3. parts are cheaper easer to find
4. electrics are good, bugs worked out
anything else I'm missing

slowdiesel · #27 03-03-2007, 02:15 AM

Quote:

The one exception to the early climate control servo problem, would be if the PO had upgraded it to the newer aftermarket solid state substitute system. If that was done, I don't see a huge difference between the later automatic climate controls and the earlier.

Where can I find a solid state substitute system? This is the first I've heard of them.

I have a '79 300D with a great engine but rusting body. I found an '81 300D with a great body and a blown engine. I merged the two cars together in January. The air works okay, but the heating functions have a lot to be desired....

gatorblue92 · #28 03-03-2007, 12:58 PM

when i get another w123 im gonna look for a 83-84 300D since they dont have the quasi computer of the 85 and have most of the kinks worked out and can go over 70 mph unlike my 240D