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#1
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CV Axel question
I’m new on this forum. I have an 85 300D T. Been working on this car more than driving it. It’s my first German and first diesel car. It’s fun to work on though.
To the subject: I had the famous bang bang bang from the rear end, which lead me to the CV axels. The left one is a reman and the boots were clamped with…….. ZIP TIES!!! WTH! They relaxed and the oil/grease leaked out. The outer boot was dry on the inside with sand like particles. Cleaned a little and packed it with some grease and gear oil. It didn’t last much more than 100 miles and the noise was back. So taking the advice from this forum and got a reman from CVJ Axles. Was about to install it, but I decided to remove the right one, clean the cracked boots and apply some rubberized under coating on it. Once I got that one out, it felt loose. If I rotate the mid of the axle while holding the can on the outside of the inner CV joint, it shows a lot of slack. So, does that mean it is shot? Other than the cracks, the boots seem intact. Not sure if it’s a reman or original. This on is the annular type. For the left one that I originally suspected, other than the dry boot, there’s no slack. It’s not as tight as the new reman that I got (I can bend the joint easier). So what do you all think? Replace them both? Or put the new one with the used-to-be-dry one and see what happens? Also, when I removed the right axle, there was no spacer/washer on the axle, differential side. Is that normal? There was one on the left side. Thanks, Joe…
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D (Benzoil) 2000 Toyota Celica (Liquid Silver) 2004 Honda VTX 1300 (Cylon Raider) |
#2
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Update
I decided to go ahead in put the left “used-to-be-dry” axle back in after filling the boot with gear oil. I don't expect it to last long.
I put the new one on the right side. BUT… it needs a spacer/washer/shim. Apparently whoever removed the right axle last didn’t put the spacer back. Searching through the forum, it seems these spacers are no longer available. So what now? I’m gonna stop by the indy shop and see if they got something. I’ve used a feeler gauge to measure the space and 1.143 mm makes it tight. But it’s not accurate. I’m wedging the gauge behind the c-clip on one side, so it might need less than that. If no luck there, what are my options? I don't like the idea of leaving that much slack in the differential.
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D (Benzoil) 2000 Toyota Celica (Liquid Silver) 2004 Honda VTX 1300 (Cylon Raider) |
#3
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You are correct on the size of the spacer. I checked it on one I have. Not sure on the exact consequences of having not spacer, but I would guess that the possibility of side to side movement may cause the splines to shear. Someone noted on the forum to have an axle stuck as result of a twisted spline. I would check with your indy to see if he has one laying around.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#4
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I stopped by the indy shop this morning. Chatted with the owner, I think, and he found only one spacer and gave it to me for free. He also gave me some tips about different things. Nice guy. for Precision ******** in Nashville, TN.
When I got home, I tried the spacer and it’s a perfect fit. I can’t feel any slack. The clip went in easy and I was able to rotate it with some effort. But the day can’t end like that. Other end won’t slide into the wheel hub. Goes in about third of the way and gets stuck. So I’m gonna try and get a longer 8mm bolt to pull it in. Fun, fun, fun!
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D (Benzoil) 2000 Toyota Celica (Liquid Silver) 2004 Honda VTX 1300 (Cylon Raider) |
#5
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Quote:
Be very careful with the longer bolt in the half shaft. If it pulls the half shaft in easily, OK then. If it doesn't pull in easy, you do NOT want to snap off said bolt inside of half shaft. Of course, ask me how I know that. [then I broke my extraction tool off into that!]
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#6
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Sorry, I usually write my posts in word then copy it over. It defaults to Arial. Is that a problem?
Thanks for the warning. I read your post a while ago and forgot about it. I might turn the bolt with a torque wrench dialed to 22 ft-lbs. It shouldn't snap that way. Also making sure that it has enough threads, but not in too far, before torquing it up.
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D (Benzoil) 2000 Toyota Celica (Liquid Silver) 2004 Honda VTX 1300 (Cylon Raider) |
#7
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Quote:
Quote:
My half shafts look horrible, so I imagine I'll be doing this soon enough...
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#8
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Success!
Finally finished the job. I ended up taking the axle out and taking a good look at the splines. There was a bit of damage on one of them. Prolly got dropped. No big deal. I filed the deformation and it went in a lot easier. I pushed it in far enough for the bolt to catch some threads. Then tightened it at first by hand then with a torque wrench. I flipped that washer, tightened a bit, and then flipped it back before torquing it all the way. Is this better? Don’t know, but that’s what I did. Buttoned up everything and went for a ride. Smooooooth. No more clunk, clunk. I might need to do the left one sometime in the future. Maybe it will last a while.
I love the smell of W90 in the morning.
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D (Benzoil) 2000 Toyota Celica (Liquid Silver) 2004 Honda VTX 1300 (Cylon Raider) |
#9
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good work.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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