My 83 240D has been making some weird noises for a little while. Today when I pulled into the driveway there was a clunk and although being in gear, the car wouldn't move. I got out and checked under the car, and sure enough my right rear half shaft axle is completely broken. But does the fact that the car doesn't move when I put it into gear necessarily mean that the driveshaft is broken (seperated from the transmission?)?


Edit:

Is there any other related maintenence I should do while I'm down there and have the axles off?

Also, my driveway is on a slight slope (with the car facing uphill). Is it too dangerous the lift the car up here? I plan on choking the tires, using a floor jack and stands, and some cinder blocks for extra insurance. Is that enough?

No. It means your differential is working.

The spider gears inside it will transfer power to the wheel with the least resistance. Since one CV is completely broken, it's the least resistance.

I bought my 84 in this condition. My half shaft was not actually broken, it just came unbolted.All 6 bolts were still there, so I bolted it back together and have about 3k on it since then . Not bad for buying a car with a "bad transmission"

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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD
82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride

82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown
83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too
84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project

Thanks for the replies. My other question then is how hard is replacing a CV half shaft for a weekend warrior. I think my most difficult job up 'till now was the starter in the same car (83 240D).

It's not bad...Ive done it and im pretty much a total newbie. It just takes some time for us newbies...lots of questions, lots of referring back and making sure everything is going ok...'am I really supposed to be yanking on this' etc.

Theres a great thread on this started by Jeremy4858(may have the number slightly off). I used the instructions off of his thread to get the job done.

I highly reccomend CVJ axles in denver for a new half shaft (or both while youre in there). They will also help you over the phone if you have questions.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Its not hard at all. One bolt in the middle of the rotor holds one end off and there's a clip inside the diff holding that end in. I think it took me about two hours total, and half an hour of that was spent just cleaning off the diff cover to get to the bolts.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo

I haven't done this job yet but arent the LATER 123 Axel halves bolted to the outside of the differential and the early ones C-clipped INSIDE the differential?

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

You know what, thats funny because all of our 123's (check sig) have the C clip axle. I heard the cut off date for C clips was 1982? Maybe along the line they all got replaced? Who knows for sure?

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-Randy Wakefield

1969 220D 4 speed (parts car)
1976 280C
1976 280S
1981 240D 4 speed (parts car)
1982 300D
1983 300TD (Ivory)
1983 300TD (gold)
1985 300TD (gray)
1987 190D 2.5
1970 280SEL (sold)
1977 240D 4 speed (sold)
1974 280 (rusted to death)
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1927 Chevy 4 door sedan
1938 Chevy 2 door sedan
1950 Willys Jeepster
1955 Studebaker President 4 door
1977 Ford F250
1979 Glastron 17'
1948 John Deere A
1960 John Deere 2010
1979 Satoh S650G
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2000 Bichon (Doby)

Wow, thats quite an impressive signature list.

Like I said, I have never done one and figure my times gota be getting close to up. I pulled the eng/tranny out of a 82 240D (build date 10/81) a couple weeks ago and then pulled the two half axles with the differential (all together) for spare parts. It was the C clip type, I assume, as I didn't see any bolt heads on the outside. Actually it looks just like my "85".

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Now that I'm on summer break and have time I finally got around to ordering a pair of axles from CVJ. I have a couple more questions though:

Is there any other related maintenence I should do while I'm down there and have the axles off?

Also, my driveway is on a slight slope (with the car facing uphill). Is it too dangerous the lift the car up here? I plan on choking the tires, using a floor jack and stands, and some cinder blocks for extra insurance. Is that enough?

LOL, knowing San Francisco there is no such thing as a "slight slope"

I would try and find some wood which would be better "insurance" for blocking.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Cinder blocks are dangerous.
click http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=166160 and read post 5. Do a search on cider blocks on this forum.

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1985 300D Turbo
"Evolution is God's way of giving upgrades" Francis Collins

when I bought the 85 10yrs ago, I had a clinking sound come out of the
R/R. darn axle was going. so I had them do both sides, figguring the other
side was just as old. these axles were the updated ones. so now the diff
doesn`t have to come apart, just unbolt from the outside.
Just had to replace the R/R again . I think I detect a clunking again,
the other side now???.
charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

While you are under there, check your:

-sway bar links
-rear sway bar bushings
-you probably want to replace your differential side seals
-rear differential mount

These are all going to be easier to replace during the axle job.

After you are done and testing the new axles, check your e-brake and adjust if necessary.

You will need in addition to the axles:
-2 new C-clips that hold the axle into the diff
-2 new special washers that hold the axle to the wheel hub
-2 new diff side seals

Do you has the FSM? The article on replacing axles is excellent and easy to follow.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Thanks for all the excellent advice. I have another followup question, where can I get the following online:

-2 new C-clips that hold the axle into the diff
-2 new special washers that hold the axle to the wheel hub

I can't seem to find these on fastlane (?)

Thanks in advance