I was doing some work on my '83 300D, and afterwards, a chunk of the drivers side engine mount was missing. The engine now makes alot of noise when I start it up (undeerstandably so, with part of a mount missing)...

Im going to replace both mounts, and possibly the tranny mount as well. Are there any tips that you guys can pass along to make the job easier? is there anything to look out for while doing this job?


Any info would be helpful....


KFC

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1983 Mercedes 300D
Atlanta, GA

It is really a straight forward job. It is easiest to start with the bolt coming up from the bottom, then do the top ones. Also, there is a right and left mount so check the part #'s.

The one thing I would suggest is to also inspect the oil cooler lines in the area of the power steering belt. What happens with a broken, or deteriated, mount is the power steering belt can rub through an oil cooler line. If one of these lines ruptures, it can seriously shorten engine life to minutes. My mounts were only worn and I can see where the belt had just started to rub.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Make sure you clean out the allen heads before trying to get the bolts out. Also use a good heavy hammer to whack the allen sockets to seat the socket well.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Don't use the torque specs listed in the Haynes Manual. They are way too high and can result in stripped threads in the mount arm.

it doesnt list them as any different. i know on my 80 300d, they were identical.

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1980 300D

I have noticed that some places list the right and left seperately, while some plaves use the same mount on both sides.....


Thanks to everyone who has responded so far..... Please keep the info comin..... I need s much info as I can get.....lol.......


Ken

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1983 Mercedes 300D
Atlanta, GA

Also, remove the radiator fan shroud clips. I ordered my mounts from Fastlane. Left and right side are the same part. Also replace your engine shocks and the tranny mount for good measure.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

disconnect any linkages that might get bent when having to jack up the engine. i had a terrible time getting the new drivers side in, i had to remove the engine shock to get enough clearance to slide it in.

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1980 300D

If you're going through the trouble to change the mounts, might as well change the engine shocks while you're there, especially if they never have been.

Speaking of shocks, you should at least unscrew one end, since at some point of jacking up the engine to get the mount out, you can reach the maximum extension of the shocks & maybe damage them.

The oil cooler line being cut by the power steering belt is a very real possibility. That's why I had to change my mounts. If the hose is worn, it might be best to replace it while you have the engine up for the mounts. A ruptured oil cooler hose is messy.

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marshall

1982 300TD (220,000 mi.)

You may need a breaker bar for the 8mm mount to engine bolts – be very careful if you have a problem to make sure the 8mm hex bit is seated correctly in the bolt head. Clean the cross member support well before installing the new mounts. Try to keep diesel and oil from dripping on the new mounts, that's why the driver’s side dies first. Your engine will be very smooth with the new mounts and sit correctly in the engine bay.

When I ordered mine, the parts guy pointed out that there were two different part #'s. They did look identical but thought there might be the slightest difference to make it so. I don't know, maybe a particular brand was the reason.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Diesel fuel and old age are the 2 reasons the drivers side mount failed. My primer pump was leaking and dripping on to the mount. That mixed with it being a piece of 20 something ear old rubber, Im sure it was ready to be replaced anywayz.....

Im going to order the parts soon here so I can get the job done and over with.......

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1983 Mercedes 300D
Atlanta, GA

I need to do the mounts in my wagon urgently, but just found out that the engine shocks are quite a bit of money. So I'd like to put them off, but I'm wondering what the difference is between bad mount symptoms and bad engine shock symptoms. How can I tell if I really need to replace the shocks, too, at this point?

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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD
1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver)
1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD
1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50

I would say that the mounts are more important than the shocks, particularly as far as motor alignment in the compartment goes...

Having bad shocks will just be that much less dampening of engine vibration and the greater vibration from old shocks is more likely to lead to premature wear of the new engine mounts...so just change 'em when you can afford it (sooner the better, of course) and don't sweat it for now.

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marshall

1982 300TD (220,000 mi.)

from what i have been told, you can tell your shocks are bad depending on how bad the engine shakes when you shut it down. mine shakes. but......i dont have a great reference point.

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1980 300D