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  #1  
Old 03-19-2007, 03:08 PM
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Question Experiences with aftermarket door seals?

I need new door seals for my front doors at least. I know for windshield seals OEM is the only way to go. Anyone care to comment on am door seals, or should I cough up the $ and go OEM here too?

thanks,
dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2007, 05:35 PM
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I would go OEM. I replaced the door seals on the rear of my car left side was aftermarket right was oem. The left seal is junk.
I replaced the rear window seal with aftermarket and it was easy I had no problems.
When you go to order seals click on Order Parts and email Roy (whunter). Wealth of knowledge there.
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2007, 05:37 PM
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Sorry to hijack,

But, OMEGAMAN-- how do you replace the rear window seal? Where did you learn how to do that?

Thanks!
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2007, 11:24 PM
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I replaced front and rear windshield seals and all the door seals with OEM and they were not much more that after market ones.

Hint; replace the 4 tubes that go from your door frame to the doors. The carry the vacuum tubes and the electrics to the door. They tend to leak and will fill your floor boards with water. They aren't really cheap but constant water in your foot wells can be a bit costly after a while.

Hint; Check out the door window slides. They tend to come apart and bind up the window. MB slides are really not cheap and I think after market ones will be just as good.

Hint; When you replace the windshield seals ask around at window shops to see in they actually know how install theses windows. Get them to tell you how they do it. Most will BS you just to get the business but in reality haven't got a clue. It is a tricky process, takes 2 men, and you can crack a window before you know it.

If your window has an aluminum frame around it the frame MUST go on the window BEFORE the window goes in the car. Then you wrap a rope around the lip of the seal that goes inside the car, set the window in place, push it in as best you can, make sure the inside lip is inside the frame, and then pull the rope out. Sounds a bit tricky and it is. I have been involved with 3 replacements but only helped the window guy. I didn't try it myself.

If you are going to replace the windshield seals think about installing a new headliner if you need one. On my 115 the windshields must come out before you can get in the headliner.

Hint; Ask your MB parts man if you can buy parts at a dealer's discount. Call yourself XYZ Restorers and see what he can do for you. I did this and saved a bundle.
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  #5  
Old 03-20-2007, 10:33 AM
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Thumbs up

kip,

Quote:
Hint; replace the 4 tubes that go from your door frame to the doors. The carry the vacuum tubes and the electrics to the door. They tend to leak and will fill your floor boards with water. They aren't really cheap but constant water in your foot wells can be a bit costly after a while.
Awesome hint, thanks! I have water in the floorboards now, so I will take a look at this.

Quote:
Hint; Check out the door window slides. They tend to come apart and bind up the window. MB slides are really not cheap and I think after market ones will be just as good.
Will check as well.

Quote:
Hint; When you replace the windshield seals ask around at window shops to see in they actually know how install theses windows. Get them to tell you how they do it. Most will BS you just to get the business but in reality haven't got a clue. It is a tricky process, takes 2 men, and you can crack a window before you know it.

If your window has an aluminum frame around it the frame MUST go on the window BEFORE the window goes in the car. Then you wrap a rope around the lip of the seal that goes inside the car, set the window in place, push it in as best you can, make sure the inside lip is inside the frame, and then pull the rope out. Sounds a bit tricky and it is. I have been involved with 3 replacements but only helped the window guy. I didn't try it myself.
I am going to ask around and find out who the dealer reccomends. How much did it cost you in the end for labor to do this process?

Quote:
Hint; Ask your MB parts man if you can buy parts at a dealer's discount. Call yourself XYZ Restorers and see what he can do for you. I did this and saved a bundle.
What if my MBparts man is the dealer?

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #6  
Old 03-20-2007, 10:57 AM
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window seal

I used the rope method to replace the rear window seal.
Put the seal on the glass
put 1/8 inch diameter rope in seal where the steel lip of the car body will wind up
place the window and seal in the opening and pull the rope out from top to bottom.

I dont know if this makes much sence. I wish I had taken pictures. Once you have done one it's easy. Always learn on rear or side glass because its really hard to break. It's really easy to crack a windshield so it's best to have some experience when you tackle that job.
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  #7  
Old 03-21-2007, 02:03 AM
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I initially replaced my driver's door seal with an aftermarket seal and the door would not close properly. There was a hard rubber bumper within the seal itself for some reason. The seal I bought for the passenger side was the same so it wasn't just an issue with that particular seal. I bought two new seals from MB. They didn't have that bumper and they allowed the door(s) to shut properly.
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2007, 10:15 AM
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Well Im defintely convinced...Ill call the MB deal er today.

Quote:
It only cost me about $50 per window. The first one on my 107 I had done in Corpus Christi. The second and third were done on my 115 here at the house 30 miles from CC. I think he charged me $40 travel time and $50 for each window. I wish that I had thought about replacing the head liner before he did the windows, but it just didn't occur to me.
Wow that is great - I hope I can find a competent MB glass guy round expensa-Chusetts for that rate. I am willing to pay to have the windshields seal correctly and not leak ever again!

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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