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#1
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WWMB Owners Do
In short, I've arrived at that crossroads where MB owners contemplate whether to sink additional $$ into their beloved vehicle or motor on to a more modern mode of transportation.
What the car needs:
The bottom line is, if you had $10k to get work done on this car would you do it or would you put that $$ into something else?
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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante" 2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit" -------------------- 1984 300D 1966 Mustang I6 3sp 1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE 1982 Toyota Supra 1977 Datsun 280z 1971 Datsun 240z |
#2
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Less pain if you can find another example in far better shape for about the same reconditioning money. Selling the current one to add to the funds.
Or perhaps be the first to member to buy an electric car and a very long extension cord.. ![]() |
#3
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Do you have space at home to just park it for several years? I did that with my old w124 then when I had time I spent several months sorting it out, shocks, brakes, curse control, ball joints, wheel bearings, exhaust and some other things. Once I saw the beginnings of rust starting in the roof by the sun roof seal I didn't want to deal with that and sold her. I think it's more of challenge finding something you really want that's in good enough condition to buy. I had purchased my 05 cdi several years ago and transitioned to that a few weeks ago and not having any regrets. Good luck lots to consider.
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92 e300d2.5t 01 e320 05 cdi 85 chev c10 |
#4
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Keep in mind that most of my knowledge comes from my om617 engines, and a brief stint with a N/A om606
But I look at that list and it looks like a fairly simple, fast, and cheap to-do list, aside from the rear control arms and subframe bushings, but even then, I've dropped a subframe with hand tools in a junkyard in 10-20 minutes to snag a 2.88 rear diff for $50, with tools and a driveway (or garage) it shouldn't be awful if all goes fairly well. I rebuilt my entire front suspension with new bushings and all that in an afternoon for around $300 (Lemforder parts) Vac pump bearings can be swapped out for shielded bearings for $20ish if I recall correctly Vac lines may be more of a pain on your body/engine combo, but still not a huge expense or time consuming endeavor AC could be irritating, but perhaps not. Dash pods are irritating. I cowboy fixed mine by disconnecting the center flap and now I get air out that vent all the time. Works great. Interior stuff can get pricy and time consuming. As can paint. I need wood trim stuff (Its all warped to poop and I can't figure out a good solution) and I also need paint on the hood, roof, and trunklid, but I'll end up respraying the whole car, hopefully this winter or maybe over a weekend if I can avoid working 80 hours a week all summer. Trans service isn't bad, Diff fluid is easy and cheap. EGR delete may be a pain on your engine, but those parts do tend to fall off randomly, real weird. Maybe I'm just a masochist, but I'd fix it all. or fix enough that you're happy with it. I guess another important thought is are you doing the work yourself? or having it done at a shop? Because $10k is a massive budget to get all that stuff done IMO, If I had $10k to spend on vehicle stuff I'd do all that stuff on my own car, and then buy 3 more W123s and then my wife would murder me for bringing home more cars ![]()
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1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car") 1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car") 2001 Ford F150 "Clifford" (The Big Red Truck) 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins Previous Vehicles: 1995 E300D, 1980 300SD, 1992 Buick Century, 2005 Saturn Ion |
#5
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Looking at my OP, seems I may have made the car seem less than what it is.
Purchased from the original owner with 113k miles about 5 years ago. I've done a fair bit of maintenance stuff that a 25-30 year old car needed (shocks, sway bushings, brakes, brake lines, vac activated turbo diaphragm, belts & tensioner, water pump, radiator, hoses). I'd take it on a thousand mile trip tomorrow. The only thing that ABSOLUTELY NEEDS to be done is the AC and I worry about the ball-dropper-vac-pump. The interior is an 8/10, as is the body. Paint gets a 5/10. The suspension bits are all running on 30 year old rubber, so I know it's just a matter of time... but really more a preventative replacement at this point. The tires I put on 10k miles ago are wearing evenly. I get an odd bump or pulse in the brake pedal when backing out of a steep driveway, but I think that's likely a recalcitrant caliper. I definitely WANT to fix it all... it's just the time involved and it's easy to get discouraged.
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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante" 2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit" -------------------- 1984 300D 1966 Mustang I6 3sp 1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE 1982 Toyota Supra 1977 Datsun 280z 1971 Datsun 240z |
#6
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The vacuum pump only takes a couple hours at most to change, just do it, because you will be mad when it fails and ruins the engine. Do that and change the transmission fluid and differential oil, then either just use it and fix other stuff as needed or sell it if you are tired of it.
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#7
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I have an updated om60x vacuum pump somewhere, let me see if I can find it. Probably in my Sprinter somewhere if I had to guess. Would sell it cheap ($100 shipped work?), it's a known good OEM one removed from a good engine and been in a ziploc bag the whole time. Seeing new Pierburgs on eBay for $180 shipped... That's the only thing that is immediate concern imo. That goes the car's gonna be down for a while.
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84 190D 5spd - 878K 87 300TD VIN 0007 - 298K 93 FUSO FE-HD 15' - 198K 05 158" Sprinter 2500 - 270K "Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche" https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ ✞ |
#8
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Quote:
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#9
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I just went thru this process and sold my 99 E300 and bought a 06 CDI. I’d expect you can still get a decent price for your 300D.
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Treetops 06 E320 CDI 127K Miles 87 300TD 231K Miles 99 E300 269K Miles-Sold |
#10
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Quote:
Non working AC can be a nightmare on these cars unless it can be proven beyond reasonable doubt that it is NOT the evaporator. Paint done slightly ok is a $2000 prospect to start. Suspension work is fun if you’re a hobbyist. But still $$ for good parts. So the real question is if the OP wants a w124 vs something else. W210 is slightly more complex, and IME more rust prone. W211 is a good bet but more complex still. W126 are modern enough and good drivers. And diesel is $$$ anymore, so unless your vehicle is getting 40+, it’s a labor of love or a hobby, because otherwise for $10k, a hybrid gas car may be a better option.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#11
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I'll ass-U-me this is your '84 300D .
The bottom line is : if you're not enjoying it, sell it on . Your signature shows you have plenty of other hobby cars to play with . I passed the $ break point in my scruffy '82 240D base model some years back, I'm about to get it back from the SECOND engine overhaul, I can't do the heavy lifting anymore so I farmed it out and it'll bankrupt me but I don't care, I love this car and sent three others away to keep this one . Sit and ponder this as low mileage W123's are no longer common. We'll support you no matter what you decide .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
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