Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-30-2007, 02:55 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
Parking Brake Question

84 300D..... does the parking brake have a separate brake pad/shoe? My parking brake foot pedal goes all the way down with no resistancce. I checked the cables under the car and they are responding when the pedal is pressed down.

What should I be looking for to fix the problem? Thanks

__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-30-2007, 03:01 PM
mespe's Avatar
benzbonz
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 1,848
The parking brake on these cars is seperate from the stopping brakes. I'm sure if you do a search you wil find adjsutment procedures.
__________________
Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz
on your smart phone or tablet.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-30-2007, 03:14 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,177
The shoes can actually wear out, especially if they drag, or they are not released all the way. They have a star type adjuster like the typical drum brake.
__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-30-2007, 07:30 PM
Stevo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
The E brake pedal on my 79 would go WAY down before securing the brake which pissed me off evey time I get in the car, so I adjusted it... now I get a warm cozy feeling every time I mash the E brake pedal.
__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-30-2007, 07:38 PM
Motorhead's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ca.
Posts: 976
As said above, there is a small star wheel adjuster that is accessed through a lug bolt hole. It is sometimes easier to take the rear wheel off first. With a flashlight, look through a lug hole and turn the brake rotor slowly until you see the adjuster. Turn the adjuster star in the direction that will move the screw out toward the brake shoe. I tighten them up until I can't move the brake rotor and back them off until the rotor turns free with a SMALL amount of drag. Make sure that when you jack up the rear of the car that the transmission is in neutral and that the emg. brake pedal is all the way returned.
To check the condition of the shoes, You need to remove the rear caliper and then slide off the brake rotor.
__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-31-2007, 08:08 AM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
thanks, motorhead............. very helpful info,,, I'll chk this today while I work on the driveshaft. I will be taking down the driveshaft to replace the center bushing. This will be the 1st time for me to do this - flex discs removal. Suppose to loosen the center driveshaft nut also. Hope I have a big enough open end wrench.
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-31-2007, 11:12 AM
rino's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
As said above, there is a small star wheel adjuster that is accessed through a lug bolt hole. It is sometimes easier to take the rear wheel off first. With a flashlight, look through a lug hole and turn the brake rotor slowly until you see the adjuster. Turn the adjuster star in the direction that will move the screw out toward the brake shoe. I tighten them up until I can't move the brake rotor and back them off until the rotor turns free with a SMALL amount of drag. Make sure that when you jack up the rear of the car that the transmission is in neutral and that the emg. brake pedal is all the way returned.
To check the condition of the shoes, You need to remove the rear caliper and then slide off the brake rotor.
I did that procedure just a few hours ago... It might be helpful to know that in order to tighten, the starwheel needs to be turned upward for the rear right wheel and downward for the rear left. At least it worked that way on my 1979 240D.
I wasted some time trying to figure that out, so I thought it might help here...
__________________
1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-31-2007, 01:58 PM
carnut's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Stockton California
Posts: 637
Make sure you mark both sections of the driveshaft prior to taking them apart. The shafts are aligned together! Must go back on exactly the same spline!
__________________
81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-02-2007, 10:41 AM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
Shaft Removal Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut View Post
Make sure you mark both sections of the driveshaft prior to taking them apart. The shafts are aligned together! Must go back on exactly the same spline!
Thanks for emphazising that, Carnut.... I read it in my Haynes manual, too but they did not highlight it as you did.

I was hoping I could finish the job on the weekend but I didn't have a large enough open wrench (1 3/4 & 1 5/8) to loosen the shaft nut. From what I've seen so far, to change the center support bushing & bearing, I don't think I need to remove the front half of the shaft. Just unscrew the shaft nut to remove the rear half of the shaft?

Does the shaft nut hold the spline in place?

Also, is a puller necessary to remove the bushing/bearing?

I also plan to replace the tranny support while I'm down there.
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-03-2007, 08:09 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by rino View Post
I did that procedure just a few hours ago... It might be helpful to know that in order to tighten, the starwheel needs to be turned upward for the rear right wheel and downward for the rear left. At least it worked that way on my 1979 240D.
I wasted some time trying to figure that out, so I thought it might help here...
Also just did mine on the 84 300D since I have the rear end up for the centrebushing job....

It might further help to know that the starwheel can be found at the 11 o'clock position. And yes, mine also adjusted the same way as rino did on his 240D.

The parking brake pedal now works as it should. However, I;m thinking that the shoes are probably worn if the pedal went down that low in the first place. Another project....
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-02-2007, 12:01 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2
hi all, which rear wheel is the E-brake calipers connected to - left/right or both?

thanks,
george
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-02-2007, 12:06 AM
My hood can go higher?
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 315
There are parking brake drums on both wheels, the cable splits at a tensioned junction
__________________
-Dan
1983 240D AT, 163K running on VO, "The Patience Tester"
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-02-2007, 12:31 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Something weird happened to mine long ago, and I've not investigated it....now that I have a bunch of free time for 5-6 weeks, I will probably delve into it. My symptoms are that one day I went to apply the parking brake (a year ago ) and it kinda "bounced back" and the pedal is midway in the travel from up to down, and won't go up any higher, it feels springy....and when clicked down, 0 resistance on either wheel, but its pretty hard to get the pedal down....so I don't know what broke. I'll have to take it all apart and see I guess. It happened about 4-5 months and many many successful uses after I replaced the parking brake shoes.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page