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  #1  
Old 04-09-2007, 09:44 AM
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Question Lining up new Door Strikers, what's the secret?

I got 4 new Meyle strikers from Roy, and I tried putting the first one on this weekend.

Is there a technique for getting these to line up?? I have got it so the door closes tightly with a good push, but I cant get the Mercedes easy 'flunk' that Ive seen on other W123's.

There's got to be a better way then just lining it up by eye and trying again and again.

DD

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  #2  
Old 04-09-2007, 10:17 AM
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Yes.
Loosen all bolts until it moves ever so slightly. Tighten them down 1/4 turn or until there is resistance. Close the door. Tighten them anther 1/2 turn. Close door hard a few times. Tighten the rest of the way.
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2007, 11:57 AM
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The technique I used was to apply tape to the door frame post, right up against the edge of the door striker. That is, the edge of the tape marked the edge of the door striker.

Then I removed the old one and lined up the new one using the tape.

This is certainly close, but perhaps due to manufacturing tolerances it is not as good as an adjustment process. I was satisfied with the results using just the tape. If you wanted to go beyond that to performing an adjustment, then maybe the tape method would give you a good starting point.

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  #4  
Old 04-09-2007, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Yes.
Loosen all bolts until it moves ever so slightly. Tighten them down 1/4 turn or until there is resistance. Close the door. Tighten them anther 1/2 turn. Close door hard a few times. Tighten the rest of the way.
Interesting. Wouldnt this push the striker back out of position somewhat too from the resistance of the door hitting the slightly incorrectly aligned striker?
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2007, 01:06 PM
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To be more clear, I also should mention that the "tape" method requires two pieces of tape to mark the door striker position. One horizontal. One vertical. The placement is such that where these two tapes cross is a corner of the door striker.

Ken300D
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2007, 09:55 PM
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Stripped Bolts

I did three of the doors. The tape method works really well when combined with the 'leave it a little loose' method. Mercedes 'flunk' returned!

BUT, top two bolts on the drivers door would not come out, and are rounded out. Even after a PB blaster soak.

Anyone have a suggestion? I figured I would cut a slot in them with a dremel and using my hand impact driver.

So close to having four doors done, yet so far away.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
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  #7  
Old 04-09-2007, 10:49 PM
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Big blob of grease.

.
Hello Everyone

I put a big blob of grease on the cone shaped part of the striker.

When I closed the door it would scrape off the grease where it was touching.

I finally got it centered this way, but it still took a while to do.

Hope this helps.
Have Fun
RichC
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  #8  
Old 04-09-2007, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
BUT, top two bolts on the drivers door would not come out, and are rounded out. Even after a PB blaster soak.
Anyone have a suggestion? I figured I would cut a slot in them with a dremel and using my hand impact driver.
If you have a 12 point bit socket, or a torx bit socket that fits, you can hammer one of them into the allen hole in the screw. Make sure its in good and deep, cause you don't to strip it more. Then use your ratchet to loosen them.
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  #9  
Old 04-09-2007, 11:09 PM
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Put a piece of electrical tape over the hole. Gently close the door until the pin just touches the tape. The pin will leave a dimple in the tape. Once you know where the pin hits, you know which way to move the striker.
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  #10  
Old 04-10-2007, 02:42 AM
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I don't know about the W123s but for W124s there is a special alignment tool.
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  #11  
Old 04-10-2007, 06:24 AM
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stripped bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
I did three of the doors. The tape method works really well when combined with the 'leave it a little loose' method. Mercedes 'flunk' returned!

BUT, top two bolts on the drivers door would not come out, and are rounded out. Even after a PB blaster soak.

Anyone have a suggestion? I figured I would cut a slot in them with a dremel and using my hand impact driver.

So close to having four doors done, yet so far away.
I've had to drill the heads off on a couple of these bolts. The head of the bolt is what gets frozen, (not the threads) so after you drill the head off you can turn the rest out with your fingers.
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2007, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Interesting. Wouldnt this push the striker back out of position somewhat too from the resistance of the door hitting the slightly incorrectly aligned striker?
Thats why you rinse and repeat a few times. The idea is that the rubber seal on the door combined with the rubber in the stiker allows for enough movement. I usually will re loosen a bit and move the strike a 1/2 mm or so inwards towards the car to get a real good seal.

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