What do you commonly have to replace when you get a "new" car? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bgkast · #1 04-12-2007, 01:35 AM

Each of the 3 W123s I have bought seem to require similar repairs when I get them. On all of them the thermostat is bad and the car is overcooling, the factory key has been lost and replaced with a now worn out brass key, and the electric sunroof (if applicable) is fubar.

What have you noticed commonly needs repair on your "new" cars?

Judge · #2 04-12-2007, 01:40 AM

When I get a new car.

Cervan · #3 04-12-2007, 01:49 AM

i allways flush all fluids i dont care if the owner did it right infront of me. and i allways replace all filters again same rule. and i allways wipe down the interiour with a couple rags and amonia just to get rid of any remnents of the previous owners.

DeliveryValve · #4 04-12-2007, 02:24 AM

You mean “New to yourself” car…. This is what remember that I found in my ’83 and ’84 when I first took possession each.... Not sure if it is common stuff...

Glove compartment door doesn’t shut. ‘84
Center vents are not blowing air. ’83 & ’84
No A/C. ‘83
Barely see the gauges in Instrument cluster at night. ’83 & ’84
Rear windows don’t operate smoothly or will not stop and skip. ’83 & ’84
Rear defroster doesn’t work. ‘83
Front dome light bulb burnt ‘84
No tire lug wrench ’83 (I still need a factory one)
Oil leaks on the valve cover, oil pan, oil filter housing, and turbo oil return tube ’83 & ’84
CV joint boot cracked ‘84
Dirty Carpets ’83 & ’84
Cruise doesn’t work ’83
Cracked fog lamp. ’83 & ’84

Shorebilly · #5 04-12-2007, 05:32 AM

Besides changing all fluids and filters, the Vacuum System generally needs attention......and I always get the front end checked, and aligned if necessary.

SB

oldnavy · #6 04-12-2007, 07:23 AM

1. A/C repair
2. fuel lines
3. Fuel filters
4. Vacuum connectors
5. Thermostate & anti-freeze
6. Accessory belt/serpentine belt

thorsen · #7 04-12-2007, 08:00 AM

On of the first things I do when I buy a new car is to put new tires on it.

muleears · #8 04-12-2007, 08:07 AM

Fluids/filters including power steering and filter, (most cars have probably never been done). Check condition of spare, it may be very old

.

Put necessary stuff in trunk: fuel filters and wrench, extra oil and coolant, rags etc.

t walgamuth · #9 04-12-2007, 08:16 AM

fluids filters new michelins and new bilsteins.

the tires and shocks do more to transform a car than anything.

tom w

diesel don · #10 04-12-2007, 08:22 AM

You've all nailed it.

I find the key is to get them up to speed mechanically and then drive the dickens out of them. If they are maintained and driven daily, they'll deliver!

Just got my 'mint' one out of storage (5 months). Not sure I'm going to do that again. Tons of issues that simply wouldn't be there if we'd driven it all along.

Man o man do these cars wish to be driven.

dd

barry123400 · #11 04-12-2007, 09:05 AM

Don, I suspect michigan is like nova scotia. Vehicle storage requires some form of climate control or there usually will be issues as you mention.
Almost easier to drive the cars year round in the salt here sometimes if not available. With some serious petroleum based rustproofing needless to say.
Does not seem to require a lot of heat as long as the car is not going through the dewpoint. With no people activity in the storage space the heat tends to lower the humidity as well.
I do not have high tech heated storage but have left cars as long as eight years inactive. They are up and running with everything as shut down still working. Usually no deterioration so far other than tires and battteries. Now that I have learnt how to store a battery for up to 15 years or longer that at least should cease.
We have a 700 square foot attached garage that there is no room to move in usually. I now understand if it was 1200 square feet there still would be no room. Just more cars.

I use a heated in floor tube system powered by a portion of a solar system.
It never drops lower than 45 degrees in that garage even with no sun for four to five days.
The flywheel effect with the thick concrete super insulated floor and very well insulated garage carries it easily. Cost was always a factor so I utlized a solar system built over thirty years ago now. Cost was 4,000 then with me fabricating it. No trouble ever with the exception of a small glitch the first year that filled the house with steam vapour. The wife called me at work that day to inform me and express her displeasure. I also learnt that day that she could scream pretty well.
System has saved a minumin 15 ,000 gallons of oil plus over that time. I see no reason now that system is not going to go another hundred plus years more. My fear of flow errosion has not come to pass. The interior of the tubes are highly polished with visual inspection with no discernable loss of copper. So even though I am not around it may ultimatly save well in excess of 100,000 gallons of number two fuel oil over the future years.
The solar panels do not have to be an eyesore. Ours are mounted vertically on the second floor wall facing the back of the property. You do not notice them unless you are out back and look up. They cover the whole wall with the exception of bedroom windows. Fortunatly the back of the house faces almost dead south. Just was my attempt for a workable solution to the problem many years ago. I guess it worked for me.

Cephallus · #12 04-12-2007, 11:32 AM

My MB's are all 20yo+, so they have generally the same issues, and get the same treatment:

1) Flush coolant system. Depending on level of muck, de-scale system and replace rad.

2) Drain old fuel and pressure-wash the tank, checking for rust.

3) Fluid change. Engine, trans, diff, brake system.

4) Replace all soft rubber suspension parts. Subframe mounts, sway bar bushings, ball joints, diff mount, etc.

5) Bilstein shocks.

This generally puts me in the $1200-$1500 range, and is about the bare minimum to make sure the car is ready to be driven a little. From there, I sort out all the small crap.

#13 04-12-2007, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

Each of the 3 W123s I have bought seem to require similar repairs when I get them. On all of them the thermostat is bad and the car is overcooling, the factory key has been lost and replaced with a now worn out brass key, and the electric sunroof (if applicable) is fubar.

What have you noticed commonly needs repair on your "new" cars?

That's almost funny, because every turbo diesel I have bought(3 so far), has had the exact same problems.

I almost forgot to add that they also all needed:

Air cleaner mounts.
exhaust doughnuts
oil filler cap gasket
motor mounts
instument light rehostat

Hatterasguy · #14 04-12-2007, 01:54 PM

I budget $1k-$1,500 right off the bat, to get whatever up to par. No one sells a 20 year old car that doesn't need a thing.

Belts, hoses, tires, shocks, ignition key's, random broken stuff. All fluids and filters of course.

I usualy change the battery, glow plugs, and strip fuse right off the bat as well. The SD bit me with the glow plugs when I first got it. Next diesels is getting said three items as soon as I buy it.

oldnavy · #15 04-12-2007, 05:27 PM

I had my 91 300D at the local Dodge dealer and the MB tech drooled all over and it drew a crowd of the tech's. They commented on how the underside had no sign of any rust or gravel road abuse. We even noticed it had a new MB muffler with the stickers in place as did the shocks. We could fine no fluid leaks on the underside from engine or tranny after 4 days of driving it around town.

However I spotted upper PS hose weeping and the fuel line coming from the fuel tank was also seeping a small amount or it was PS fluid. I have new fuel lines going on tomorrow and the power steering hose is waiting for PS filter to arrive and me to go buy some PS fluid at AutoZoo to do that job.

So far the a/c is about a $300 fix, $8 for fuel line, and then just the cost of filters and oil & gear oil. I will end up with about $4000 in the car and it will be ready for a coast to coast trip.