ok guys, finally been able to start putting her back together and I have some questions.

Since I am replacing the OEM springs with some E55 springs, in addition to all the required bushings and such I bought the E55 lower control arm camber bolts. The bolts that were on there previously were nothing special, normal looking bolt with a flat round washer. The new replacement bolts look much more interesting.

The washers have a notch in them that stands out on one side, almost looks like the can fit into the grooves in the lower subframe mounting holes. I am ASSUMING that the notched side should be facing the control arm, correct? I've added a photos to show how I installed the bolts with the washers onto the arms.

Also, the front bolt would not fit back in like the one I removed. The original bolt seemed slightly shorter and was a tight fit to remove as a line to the transmission cooler runs right in front of the front bolt. In the photos I installed this bolt in the reverse, such that the heads of both bolts face each other on the inside. Is that ok? I am adding a photo of the other side how it looks as I have not yet touched it.

Also when the tech that handles the alignment, I assume that he fiddles with those lower control arm bolts when adjusting things correct? SO how tight should I tighten them in nM?

Attached Thumbnails

       

MB calls these "repair bolts," and they permit adjustment of caster (front bolt) by +/- 25' or 50' and camber (rear bolt) by +/- 20'. You should mount them with the groove pointing down and let the alignment tech switch them to the left or right position if adjustment is needed. Torque spec on the nut is 120 Nm. See attached PDF.

Since the groove on the bolt does not run the entire length, mounting the rear bolt in the reverse position (nut toward the front of the car) is a deviation from the engineered design. This will make no difference if camber doesn't need to be adjusted, but if it does, you will be making the adjustment at the front of the rear bushing rather than the rear, and that may cause the amount of the adjustment to be more or less than the 20' design. Whether this is good or bad depends on how much adjustment you need.

How did you get the rear bushings out?

Attached Files

W210 front LCA repair bolts.pdf (23.0 KB, 765 views)

Thanks alot!

Any insight on how to best mount that front bolt in the proper way? One of the transmission lines appear to be in the way and I'm not at the vehicle to poke around and choose a plan of attack at the moment....

Sorry, I misread your first post. I thought it was the rear bushing bolt you turned around. Now I see it's the front. But same analysis applies as regards how it affects the adjustment.

As for insights . . . no. Other than the obvious--and obviously unacceptable--recommendation to remove the transmission lines. By the way, I'm in the same boat: I reversed my front bolt, too.

What I really want to know is how you removed the old rear bushings from the LCA.

I didn't remove them. I bought new control arms online and they come with the bushings already installed. I re-sprayed them with Rustoleum as some paint chipped off during handling. It's almost pointless to just remove the bushings as the lower control arms are usually partially rusted, etc...

Lemforder made the ones I purchased and they come in bags with the w210 part number on them. (they appear to be OEM)

I think you can find them on FastLane here...