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  #1  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:41 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
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Request recommendation for Valve Cover sealant (85 300D)

#%&^*&! I had a dripless Mercedes until I noticed recently that i was dripping oil from a valve cover seal. I tightened it and the leak went away, but I suspect its still problematic. I can't fin HYLOMAR anymore. Can anyone recommend a new sealent.

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  #2  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:46 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Location: Central FL
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Permatex makes a black gooey always tacky, non-hardening sealer similar to Hylomar (but not as pretty) that seems to work well. That's my preference over RTV on most things. Particularly where a gob of something might break off and ...well....

Rick
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Last edited by rs899; 05-11-2007 at 10:12 AM.
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:48 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
Clomp!!!!

This is the post that told me the tip on how to properly seat the valve cover (no oil and dry!!!)...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=91709&highlight=clomp

goes on dry and CLOMP!!!

ever since I've used this technique (three valve adjustments later - no leaks!
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:49 AM
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With a new gasket and all four nuts tightened equally to 11 ft.-lb..........there won't be any "problematic" unless the valve cover is not flat..........due to excessive torque by a previous owner.........of course.
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2007, 11:29 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
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Homemade Torque Wrench

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
With a new gasket and all four nuts tightened equally to 11 ft.-lb..........there won't be any "problematic" unless the valve cover is not flat..........due to excessive torque by a previous owner.........of course.

I have slightly modified the rule for observing Torque wrench specifications. My personal belief is thatthey are to ensure that you dont undertorque a nut or bolt. Therefore to be consistent with this philosophy, I always take the torque spec and multiply it by a slight factor based on the criticality of solving the problem at hand. Hence to solve the leaking gasket for 11 ft- pounds, I lean my entire body into it and then nudge it 3 more times. For 30 foot pounds, I use a piece of pipe and a breaker bar. For 60 foot pounds, I also use a 20 pound mallet. For 100 ft pounds, I try to use the starter motor or some jury rigged device involving putting the car into gear.
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2007, 11:31 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
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um, the weight of your body could easily snap off the v/c bolt.
John
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2007, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow View Post
I have slightly modified the rule for observing Torque wrench specifications. My personal belief is thatthey are to ensure that you dont undertorque a nut or bolt. Therefore to be consistent with this philosophy, I always take the torque spec and multiply it by a slight factor based on the criticality of solving the problem at hand. Hence to solve the leaking gasket for 11 ft- pounds, I lean my entire body into it and then nudge it 3 more times.
........I'm sure the valve cover loves the additional downforce..........
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2007, 04:31 PM
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Marine Engineer (retired)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 1,268
Talking Inside Valve Cover.....

There is a thread around here somewhere.....talks about this problem, and filing the little feet (sort of) or maybe a better word would be "gasket squish preventers".....generally these are distorted due to a past overtorque incident......if you file them a tad you will regain the squish factor that MB intended......

SB

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