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#1
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HELP - Hard to shift 4-speed 300TD
Can't get my 4 speed into reverse while running:
I checked the transmission lube and it was indeed ATF (Red anyway) and it was full. I reverse bled the the clutch system twice. The first time the brake pedal pumped up tight and the clear fuel line I used was full of fluid all the way to the slave cylinder (the air went somewhere, possibly out the threads at the bleed screw). I tightened the bleed screws and tried the clutch. Same thing-can't get it into reverse. So, I reverse bled again. This time the brake pedal wouldn't ever pump up tight (as if the fluid was flowing through the slave and M/C back to the reservoir?)What's odd is that I didn't see any bubbles coming from the return line into the reservoir and the fluid level hardly dropped at all. I checked under the dash and have no leaks at the master. There are no leaks that I can see at the slave. I cleaned the area real well. Am I doing something wrong here? It doesn't seem to me that the fluid is making it back to the reservoir. MBDOC, STEVO, FORCED INDUCTION - What should I be looking at next? Thanks guys! |
#2
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Did the car come with the manual gear box or did you swap it in? I would check the aluminum connectors on the shift rods that attach to the bottom of the floor shifter. See if there is interference that is preventing the shift lever from going into the reverse position. I had to "clearance" one of my connectors in order to get 3rd gear to engage.
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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed ------------------------------------- '92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold '83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold '87 300D Turbodiesel - sold '82 300D Turbodiesel - sold |
#3
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I bought the car with the 4 speed in it.
That's a good point but I don't think it's a clearance issue. It's more like the cluth is not disengaging enough to stop the gears for reverse. When the engine is off, I have full motion through all the gears and it worked fine when I bought it. It started doing this intermittently and now it's all the time. When it's running and stopped, it's hardest to get it into first and easier as you go to 2nd 3rd and 4th (No grinding, just doesn't want to engage). That's why I did the reverse bleed. While the reverse bleed hose was hooked up I pushed on the clutch and it stayed to the floor. When I pumped the brakes, the clutch pedal came back up and stayed in place. (Note: I've never come out to the car and had the c-pedal be on the floor.) Does that mean the fluid is making it back to the reservoir? Should I check the rod on the slave cylinder? I'm at a loss as to my next steps. |
#4
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you may just need to replace the clutch disk.
does it ever slip under a load in high gear? John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
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No slippage. The thing was working fine.
If I put it in reverse, push on the clutch and start the car, it wants to move backwards a little (As if the clutch is not disengaging all the way). |
#6
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Are you sure you did the bleed correctly? clutch pedal up, pump like crazy, close both bleed nipples, you should have clutch, if not repeat the process. I couldn't get the hose to stay in place without tiny hose clamps.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#7
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When the disc has excessive wear that could be the problem.
Is there excessive freeplay? IF so there is a cam on the master cylinder that can be turned to take out that free-play.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#8
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StaggerLee's hard to shift 4-speed
Stevo-I'm pretty sure I did it right. Just as you described. I put hose clamps on and pumped like crazy with the clutch pedal up! The third time I bled the system I noticed fluid leaking out through the threads on the bleeder at the slave. What should the brake pedal feel like while pumping it? Should it firm up or go to the floor everytime?
MBDOC - The clutch feels "normal" as far as starting out goes. The pedal comes up a couple inches and starts to engage. Before the pedal gets to the top it's fully engaged and there is very little play at the top of the pedal. No noticable slippage. If I give it a little throttle when I let out the clutch, I do hear a little rrrRRRRCH as it engages. Not sure if that's normal or not. Today I'm going to take the return line off the reservoir and see if any of the fluid is making it back. I have a feeling it's not. Thanks for all your input and I'll keep you posted. |
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