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#1
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Newbie says HI and asks a few starter questions..
I just bought a 1985 300SD with the 5 cylinder turbo deisel (cali emissions) & I love it. Just wanted to say that this web board kicks a@@ and the info on this site is incredible.
My SD has just under 300,000 miles on it and I believe was not really maintained in the last few years. It had low trans fluid, oil and the tires were low. Basically the car sat for a while after the owner died and it was sold to me. After being thrown into German engineering and reading the posts on this site, here is what I know: -Rotella oil might be the best for me -Vacuum runs almost everything -If i lock my doors, my cruise control works -i can get 27-30 mpg, maybe -i won't win the Indy 500 -my air filter is $80 locally Here are things i don't know 1. After doing my oil change, its still black like the night. How do I 'clean' the bad oil out? 2. My fan for the climate control works only if I jiggle the ignition key, and even then only about 50% of the time. 3. what is the best manual to get for all the other things. I got the deisel service manual out of the library but want a good one that covers everything. 4. Wher can I get metric vacuum hoses. Happy in California Thanks again rick |
#2
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Quote:
2. My 300D had that problem, you need to replace the electrical part of the "ignition," not the entire part. It looks like this: http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ423T00HRAD&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=All&part=Ignition+Switch 4. To get vacuum hoses, air filters, etc. click the "buy parts" at the top of this page. |
#3
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Oil change
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Sonny ![]() 86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold- ![]() 79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP 2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work ![]() |
#4
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Of course I drained the oil, put the drain plug on, removed the filter and put in new oil
![]() I guess I have some of that bad oil still inside. Doesn't matter though, I used cheap oil for the first change before I decide on what to use. Rotella still sold at walmart at $14 a quart?
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Rick & Michele in California 1985 300SD Turbo Deisel 300,000+ miles 1963 Mercury Meteor Stationwagon 1959 Montgomery Ward Silver Pigeon Scooter & matching bicycle 1974 IH Scout 4x4 |
#5
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Sorry about that, I didn't read your post closly enough..
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__________________
Sonny ![]() 86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold- ![]() 79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP 2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work ![]() |
#6
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Sonny, its my fault for not wording my post correctly. I wasn't saying that 'I did the oil change' towards you. I was saying that I did the oil change backwards.
1. drained oil-put drain plug back on 2. removed the filter 3. added oil The oil from the filter drained back into the pan, which I didn't drain before I added the new oil. Thanks for the link. Super helpful.
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Rick & Michele in California 1985 300SD Turbo Deisel 300,000+ miles 1963 Mercury Meteor Stationwagon 1959 Montgomery Ward Silver Pigeon Scooter & matching bicycle 1974 IH Scout 4x4 |
#7
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Do not worry about the color of the oil. It is suspended carbon--carbon being a ( maybe THE) by-product of diesel combustion. The carbon is very fine and blows past the rings, and gets picked up by the oil. Thats a good thing--the oil is doing its job. You want to keep all that stuff in suspension so it drains out with the next oil change. Having clean oil, but a sludge-covered mess inside the engine would be bad.
If it REALLY bothers you, here is a suggestion. Drain the oil when the engine is hot. Let it drain as long as you can, over night is good. With the drain plug still out, dump some kerosene, or even diesel into the oil filler. If you watch as it drain, it will be black, too. Maybe you can squirt some of the same stuff up into the crankcase thru the drain holle. Let it all drain out; repeat until it runs clear. Install the filter, and the drain plug. Dump in 8 qts of cheap HD motor oil, and run the eungine for an hour or so. Drain and change the filter. Repeat as necessary. Your final fill of oil needs to be the proper diesel-rated oil. It will look remarkably clean .......for a day or two, maybe even a week. Also, " Welcome to the site"! As the new owner, I suggest (strongly) that you replace ALL fluids unless you have comprehensive records. The previous owner probably had gotten to the point where he refused to do any maintenance for years. Also, until you can visibly inspect all of the steel brake lines, STAND of the brake pedal ( engine running) before you leave the driveway/garage. If a line is going to blow out, you want it to happen here, and not out on the highway when you might really need to stop. I am not sure why locking the doors affects the cruise control. I could understand that in a W123, but not in the W126, S class. The vacuum for your lock system comes from an electric vacuum pump in the trunk, next to the spare tire. I do not believe it is connected to the engine system in any way. Besides, I think your CC is electrically rather than vacuum operated. Anyway, again, welcome to the Forum. All your questions will be answered. One more thing, I think WalMart sells the synthetic Rotella T at about $14 or so a gallon; not quart.
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags ![]() |
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