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#1
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Banjo bolt cleaned today, need input
I removed my banjo bolt from the intake, and it was nasty. I totally cleaned it out, it and wiped down the vacuum tube, but didn't take the tube off and flush it???? Should I do that.
Also, there was only one washer on it. I read there is supposed to be two. Is that a problem. Also When I put the bolt back on, I hand tightened it. I noticed there are three openings on the side of the bolt... does it matter how the holes line up when the bolt is tightened. I didn't really notice any difference in my boost... maybe a little, but it was 90% clogged before I cleaned it and I was expecting a little better performance. I am going to adjust the ALDA next I guess. Any advice?
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000 98 BMW 323is |
#2
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Quote:
Dieselgiant has a pictorial for reference.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#3
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You cannot remove the tube from the banjo bolt. They are one assembly. But, you can clean the tube with some Brakekleen until all the soot is removed. Or, you can purchase a new tube and bolt for a reasonable price and be done with it. The 24 year old tube is prone to fracture anyway. Yes, it's a problem. One washer goes between the banjo bolt and the manifold and one washer goes between the head of the screw and the banjo bolt. When tightened, you have no leaks. It does not matter on the orientation of the holes. Did you put a boost gauge on it........or is this your ass talking? |
#4
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I have no idea why the following happens..... Whenever I have cleaned either banjo bolt, it took about a day before the turbo started kicking in again. I have no idea why...... Working great now!
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NC Benz Fuquay-Varina, NC 1979 300D 1983 300D Turbo 260,000 Miles 1984 300D Turbo 345,000 Miles (sons car) OBK #31 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4l (fer Haulin'!) 145,000 1973 19' SeaRay with 115 Mercury TOWER OF POWER! Club Car Golf Cart 36V Ex toys: 1967 Mustang 289 (First Car) Fiat 124TC 1975 Honda CVCC 1980 Audi 5000 Turbo |
#5
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not sure about this
[quote=Brian Carlton;1546145]You cannot remove the tube from the banjo bolt. They are one assembly.
I am talking about the vacuum tube the bolt goes through. Do people remove that and flush it with brake cleaner. I guess I need to get another washer. Is it just a standard washer I can match with the one I have on the bolt.... I have read a few more post. Is there another bolt to clean on the other end by the switch...? That was a good joke btw, I just now got it....
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000 98 BMW 323is |
#6
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[QUOTE=spugeddy;1546363]
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It's a typical aluminum metric washer that can crush and provide a seal. The other end goes into the bottom of the switch. There is no bolt. Quick on the uptake.......... |
#7
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My Banjo Bolt was loose, and the line was leaking
After reading several posts about the banjo bolt, I pulled mine to clean it. I found that it wasn't really clogged so much as it was only finger tight. The other thing that I noticed is that the line had been cut and patched together using a piece of over-sized tubing with tie-wraps for clamps. After cleaning it up and tightening things up as much as I could , I did notice an improvement in performance. Do I replace the tubing, or the whole assembly?
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#8
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Regardless of EVERYONE should check their LINKAGE before messing with the ALDA. ALDA should be the last thing after you have eliminated, filters, linkage, injectors, PC balls. ALDA is the "fine tuning" portion of getting these cars back in shape.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
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