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#1
04-24-2007, 06:32 PM
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87 300TD will not start when hot
Hello all,
My 87 300TD will not start when it has been driven up to operating temperature, shut off, and left for 20-50 minutes. When I get back to the car after an errand, it cranks and cranks, but will not fire. It starts when cold very easily, even in the dead of a Minnesota winter. What gives? I have done some searching on the forum here but could not come up with an answer. If anyone has some advice, it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! 1987 300TDT ~264,000 miles 
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#3
04-24-2007, 08:19 PM
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Hot starter cranking noticably slower? Check to make sure the vacuum shutoff on the pump is not staying on somehow?
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#4
04-24-2007, 08:31 PM
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when was the last time the valves were adjusted?
__________________
Cheers, Robert
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#5
04-24-2007, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel
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#6
04-24-2007, 09:17 PM
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You're not running vegetable oil blended with 15% gasoline are you? If so, and your in tank screen is dirty, the gas can cause a vapor lock and prevent starting.
-Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.
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#7
04-24-2007, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go" 1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif
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#8
04-24-2007, 10:30 PM
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That is one of the reasons I have not used the system, I am not convinced it is good for these diesels, but do you think it could be contributing to my hot start issue even when not being used?
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1987 300TDT ~264,000 miles
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#9
04-24-2007, 10:54 PM
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Well one way to tell is if you take it off and put the car back like it was before. It sounds like you are not getting fuel soooooo I would guess that something isn't right with the grease system. Which one do you have?
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss
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#10
04-24-2007, 11:17 PM
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It is a greasecar kit. It has the two switching valves up front, the hose in hose heating, heated WVO filter up front as well. I am going to try plumbing the fuel system "original" tomorrow.
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1987 300TDT ~264,000 miles
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#11
04-24-2007, 11:40 PM
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Yeah, don't take it out just yet-- just bypass it and see if it makes a difference.
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=-=-=-=-= 1987 300TD 231,000 #22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update
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#12
04-25-2007, 12:05 AM
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When you're having the no-start issue, pop the hood and pull off the return fuel line and see if fuel is flowing while cranking it (you may need somebody to help you). If it's not, you've found your problem.
Good luck.
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-justin 1987 300TD, 1987 300TD 2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon
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#13
04-25-2007, 12:18 AM
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The return fuel line? Would you remove it at the main fuel filter? What should I see while cranking? Should the return flow be steady, and if it is not, how do you fix it?
Thanks
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1987 300TDT ~264,000 miles
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#14
04-25-2007, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
You should see fuel squirting. I don't think it will be steady, but never tried before. You should see fuel, at least. If it's not flowing, you've got a fuel flow problem. It could be a vapor lock like others have suggested, it could be a valve getting closed in your greasecar kit like you suggested, or it could be a clogged fuel filter/line. Difficult to determine at this point.
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-justin 1987 300TD, 1987 300TD 2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon
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#15
06-22-2007, 09:38 PM
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I'd check the fuel filters first (are they new?), then make sure you can easily pull fuel from the tank after shutting off -- sounds like the tank screen in plugging. If so, it won't be long before you have serious performance issues (you may in fact already have them -- do you get black smoke if you floor it? -- Does it out-drag small Japanese cars? If not, no fuel), and eventually the car will stall and stay dead until you clear the screen. A gentle push with compressed air will open it up for a while, but if it's fouled, you need to get the tank cleaned.
Bypass the veg oil system -- line from tank should go to the fuel thermostat and preheater, but to test you can connect it directly to the lift pump on the side of the IP. Cranking the engine will operate the lift pump, it's a plunger type so fuel will come out in squirts, not a continuous stream. The only thing electronic on that IP is the idle speed control, it will start just fine without it. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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