Would be the first time I've heard of anyone replacing that seal on a 606. A leak there would be engine oil.

Pretty daring for a Audi mechanic to r & r the pump....

I am calling it diesel, but it looked more like thin oil on the driveway. I always considered it an oil leak, and just started calling it a diesel leak recently because it was the IP that was leaking. BUT all things do point to it being that seal, no? the size.. the bad timing after it was put back together.. if this is the case, what now? If he did r & r the pump, where did he go wrong? can he fix it or do I need to limp it some where else? He is sure the pump is bad, but I just have a feeling this is not true. Plus those pumps are damn expensive. I would like to exhaust every other possible avenue before I replace it.

If the pump were pulled it could well be out of time. Let MB, or a very expireinced Indy re-time it correctly. In that event assuming the mech didnt open the pump up everything else should be fine.

If hes touched the delivery valves you should be able to see clean marks on the splined nuts that hold them down, where the tool has been.

You can tell when the IP has a leak. Just idle the engine and put your hand underneath - you'll feel how wet it is.

I stopped by the mech this morning. The leaking ( replaced ) 0-ring was the one between the IP and the crank case. He did not touch anything else. He did say that the splines are very fine between the ip and the crank case and it very possible he was off by a few when he put it back together.

Once he started the car and saw smoke he then tried to set the timing of the IP by hand. He tried setting the timing of the ip by +/- 8deg with no change.

Sooooo - now what? Can the dealer set the timing without pulling the IP off again? And if I do need to pull the Intake AGAIN should I rebuild the 6 valves ( or whatever they are called ) on the top of the IP?

Thanks so much guys. You have been TONS of help.

-Dylan

I think the pump will have to come out and everything be realigned to the timing marks before it goes back in again. Being off a "few" gear teeth "and" then being adjusted attempting to compensate has probably got the ECU and IFI horribly confused.

If you dont know the age of the DV seals, having the IM off makes this an opportune time to repalce them.

Right - but the audi mech should be able to align the timing marks, it does not take special tools or knowledge.. you just have to be careful to make sure it's lined up? Since it already at his shop, if it's as simple as re-aligning the 2 splines, then setting the timing back to center, I would like him to do it.

I got that IM means Intake Manifold, but what does DV stand for? Thanks

moi aussi.... ich auch...
 

My 1999 had the same problem as described at the start of this discussion. It had fuel leaks, which the Mercedes people in Palo Alto repaired nicely, and then, en suite, the IP was seriously off; the thing ran abysmally; and the Mercedes people sent it to the master IP rebuilder in so. San Francisco. The latter worked his wizardry and the car runs wonderfully 40, 000 miles and two and a half years later. I also had my glow plugs done recently and the MB people here were amazed at how little sludge and dreck is in the thing. The others here know the coordinates of this shop in so. San Francisco. I have seen it mentioned in other posts by wiser minds than mine.

Would mind sharing what it cost to have the IP rebuilt? You can PM if you wish. Thanks

I paid 550USD, a sum which the Mercedes people in Palo Alto claimed was the dealer cost demanded by the IP wizard in south San Francisco. Whatever the truth of such a claim might be, the car still runs well. I ride in a lot of these W210s as taxis in Germany and Austria, in fact, and am satisfied with the work.

Considering the best price I could find for a rebuilt one was out of the UK and cost 960£ - I'll take $550 us :)

This of course also required removing the entire IP. Sigh. Do you have the name of the IP wizard?

For those who may need it in the future:
Some contacts for MFI service are:

Pacific Fuel Injection (Gus Pfister)
Suite B, 153 Utah AvSouth San Francisco, CA
Tel. 650-588 8880

Jerry Fairchild Industries (Robert Turner)
5242 Westside RdRedding, CA 96001
Tel. 530-241 1592

Walz Diesel Fuel Injection (Norbert Schuller)
Sydney (expensive)
Tel. 02-9755 1422


Here is a link to where I got the info -

http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/bosch_MFI.htm#Replacing%20a%20pump

retour...
 

I am sure it is the Pacific Fuel Injection people in south San Francisco.

Gus Pfister is the guru...another member used him recently. I think his rebuild was $900??

But first, you need to get your pump re-installed so it (and your entire valve train) are at the correct timing. This requires a visit to your local dealer who has the tools (yes, special tools are needed) and expertise needed to perform the work.

Based upon what work you said was performed by your mech, once the pump is back in at the correct timing life should hopefully be good again......

ughh - so now I have to pay dealer rates for them to basically redo what the mechanic did? And if the valves at the top of the injector are leaking ( I am just being a pessimist now I know ) will the dealer offer to fix these, or are they going to say I am SOL and try and sell me a new pump? The labor on removing the IM and the IP can't be cheap. I would like to not pay for it too many times in a row....

Is there no chance that armed with this new info the mechanic could realign the splines and I could be on my way?