Last week I posted about the loss of power while the engine is cold (<80C). The response was to check the change over valve in the IM.

Now the car is not wanting to start that easily in the morning. It takes 4 or 5 tries to get the engine started. It is still losing power intermitantly before operating temperature is reached. It also does not want to shut down once the key is turned off.

I have STFA and found information stating it could be the vacumm pump or a vacuum leak. Does this sound like this is what is going on? This information was not specific to my vehicle.

I cannot find any info on inside diameter of vacuum line in case I need to replace it. MB dealer has some 10mm ID at $10/meter. I am not sure if this is what I would need. I did a quick inspection but did not see anything with that large of diameter. It all appears to be in the 3mm ID range. Any ideas what size vacuum line is needed to replace the old?

Speaking of ID's, what is the ID of the clear fule lines around the filter? I would like to replace that also as a few pieces are almost black.

Its a very common problem to have fuel leaks around the injector pump, and hard starting is one result of such leaks. Another reason would be faulty glow plugs.

Check for lots of bubbles of air in the lines around the injector pump and fuel filter when you're trying to start. Don't worry if you see them, its a cheap and easy DIY fix that will take less than an hour.

As for the car not shutting off, thats probably the fuel shutoff valve not working as it should. Mine is electronically controlled, yours could be vacuum controlled. Whichever, its a black cylindrical device mounted on the side of the injector pump, it will have 3 fuel lines into it. It could be faulty, or if vacuum controlled there may be a vacuum leak somewhere on your car.

Can't see any air bubbles because the hoses are very dark. I did find some 5/16" fuel line locally but it is not clear. I started replacing the lines.

Is it okay to remove the barbed connector from the filter housing or fuel pump to change the hose or do those need to stay in?

I did find a disconnected vacuum hose in there. The line was black and it went to something located further back than the fuel pump. It was not the change over valve.

I only changed one hose, reconnected that vacuum line and the car started right up but did not want to immediately shut down.

The fuel lines (except for the return line) are all preformed factory lines. Just buy all of them and replace them. They are clear when new, not dark brown. The whole set of them is only about $50 and is well worth it.

New lines will probably resolve your leak and if not will allow you to see where the bubbles are comming from.

You may have a leak at the shutoff valve oring since you are having difficulty shutting down; it could also be the leak that is causing your hard starts too or the valve ifself could be malfunctioning.

Have you attempted to read your codes? Yours is a little harder to read as is not OBDII compliant. Search ARTHUR DALTON and CODE READER using advanced search to learn how to make one.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

This is the vacuum line that was disconnected. Any idea what that is? The car started right up this morning and shut down fairly quickly, but not immediately. The black fitting coming out of that part is very loose.

Nope, but its there for a reason so connect it back up.