96 E300D. So about a 2 weeks ago, I noticed the smell of diesel when walking around the car. After looking under the hood, I could see diesel dripping from my one of my fuel lines that connects to the Shut-off valve. Since I was going to have to remove the Intake Manifold, i decided that I would change out everything. I ordered new fuel lines, and viton O-Rings.

The job was not as bad as I thought it was going to be, except for getting Banjo bolt O-ring in place. I finally gave up, as I could not get the bolt back in, and just put the old O-ring back on.

Anyway, once I got all the fuel lines, delivery valves, and other O-rings replaced, I decided to start the car before getting the manifold back on. I finally got it started after 2-3 rounds of letting it crank for about 30 sec. It was very loud and stumbled. I thought this was normal, as there may be air moving through the system, so I let it run for a few min, and then shut the car off. I put everything back together, and started it again. This time, there was a very lound distinct clacking noise coming from the engine. It sounds like 1 cyl. Thinking that it would go away if I drove the car, I took it for a 5 min spin. The car was clacking the whole time, and when I come to a stop, it stubles.

I'm wondering if some dirt fell in one of the DV .. or there is more air in the system??? I do notice that all the lines have fuel in then, except for the line that goes to the top of the pre-filter, but no leaks that I could fine. My lines were black before changing them, so this may be normal.

I'm afraid that I may have to take everything apart tomorrow.

What do you all think?

Thanks

I think some dirt or junk from inside the manifold is bouncing around in one of the cylinders. It happened to me once and I had to step on it to get it to shoot out. I am not telling you what to do but that is what happened to me.

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-disav

99 E300 TURBODIESEL Astral Silver 282K - AMG brakes, suspension, monoblocks, speedo & interior - Full Load Maxed on IP by custom Speed Tuning USA Chip - T3/T4 Garrett - EGR/MAF delete
98 E300 TURBODIESEL Alexandrite Green on black leather 289K
95 E300 DIESEL Green Queen 267K SOLD
84 300D 216k SOLD
87 300D 299K #22 head - intercooler - full load adj. - 8sec 0-60mph - SOLD
76 300D 214K SOLD

Did you us the proper torque on the delivery valves??? Several people have reported problems if they overtightened the DV seals. The important thing is that they be torqued to about 35NM, whether you do the 30-30-35 or just straight 35 procedure doesn't seem to make too much difference but if you make them too tight it can cause troubles.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Well, I did do the 30, 30 35 method... BUT I did it in foot-pounds, not NM. Dumb move, I guess. It looks like i over tightened them by 9 f-lbs, or 10MN. I guess I'll take the manifold off again tomorrow, and loosen these up.

There also was a lot of crap from manifold in each of the holes.

Try retorquing the DV seals using the correct units and see if that doesn't clear it up. You can clean out the manifold with any number of solvents if it is thickly coated with gunk, but I doubt that is what is causing the problems you described. Many have used just straight bio-diesel to disolve that crud in the intake.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I took the manifold off again today, and torq'd the DV to spec... 35NM. I screwed on the copper bolts on top of the DV just hand tight, then cranked the car till I saw fuel spitting out, then tightened them. I then started the car, and backed off the copper bolts on the injectors till they spit fuel, which was right away, then tightened them.
I still have the clacking when I start the car. I took it out for a 5 min spin, and really got on it. I can see lots of black smoke.. much more than normal, but when I came back, the knock was still there.

I'm a little concerned that I may be damaging something by letting it run with that noise.


I think that my next stop should be a diesel purge, unless anyone else has any ideas.

Just one question. Is it normal to have the fuel to drain back on the fuel line that goes on top of the pre-filter? Since my fuel lines were black before changing them, I'm not sure if this is normal.

Thanks

well, I did the diesel purge. I have to say that it was still very clean when finished. Unfortunately, it did not solve the issue. Unless someone has some kind of epiphany of sorts, I'm going to throw in the towel, and see what the pros think.

Not sure if this'd cause your problem, but aren't you always supposed to replace the crush washers as well when doing the delivery valve o-rings? I was searching around for similar info the other day and I think I saw a couple of posts about this, and about problems that could crop up if you didn't do the crush washers as well.

good luck,

dave

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1987 190d turbo, 5-spd conversion -- 146k
1973 280 -- back on the road with a euro m110
1980 300SD -- RIP - Sold for parts (lost battle with rust)

do the job over,use new crush washers and correct torque.If it were me i would not reuse the o-rings either.Before you tear into it try loosening the injector lines one at a time and determine which cylinder is making the noise and pay close attention to that delivery valve to see if it all assembled exactly like the others.It seems you caused the problem,with a little patience i bet you can correct it. My $.02 Don

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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

Do it again and use new crush washers and the correct torque.

I dont think you have been cautioned yet not to disturb the valve inself in any way. Is important not to let them fall over, come out or to change their orientation in any way. I believe this was Blodgit2's downfall which necessiated a rebuilt pump.

Next time I do mine I intend to remove the metal lines at the injectors and prime until a bit of fuel is emited from each line in order to ensure no debris or deterioated rubber oring particles get to the injectors. My beleif is that is what caused my noisy idle after replacing them the first time. Two DP's using two cans each 1k miles apart cleared my nailing up. For me, 1k miles is 2 weeks normal commute. Has never run quieter sicnce I've owned it.

My only complaint after doing them is that I cant blow smoke at WOT anymore to shake the tailgaiters.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Terry, I seem to recall this discussion in the past. What's the deal with the prohibition on removing the valve? Why is it impossible to return the valve and spring to the same place and have it function properly?

Is this issue unique to the 606?

Brain - I think that Alstair did a good job explaining in post #13 of Bodgit2's thread from when he encountered problems. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=185922

I do not believe this is strictly a 606 issue. The valve in the 606 may sit higher in the IP and therefore be more exposed and prone to moving around than in previous pumps. The 606 IP is a milled aluminum body which may also come into play if over torqued or if torqued down with the valve misaligned.

Steve (Bodgit2) may have additional insights.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

**UPDATE**

So I took the DV out again, and replaced the crush washers. I did not replace the seals.... The aren't leaking, so I didn't think it was necessary to replace them. I noticed once the DV is off, the piece that the crush washer sits on will move around a little. After changing the crush washers, Torqued to spec, and put everything back together. I still have nailing, exactly as before. When I loosen the copper fuel lines at the injectors, all squirt fuel and I could not find one that points to the problem. The car will stuble more when I loosen each of the fuel lines.

So I decided to call a trusted mercedes indy mechanic here in town. When I told him that I took the DV valves off and replaced the o-rings, he said that the "pinging" is normal and should go away in 3000 miles. What do you all think about that?

I was thinking that I would get in there one more time and make sure all the parts down in the IP are OK and none are cracked, broken or stuck.

He might be correct.

The '86 cracked a #6 fuel line on a trip to NC. It ran on 5 for about 150 miles or so. After the new line was installed, it had a pronounced injector knock. I was really PO'd because I thought I screwed up the prechamber by running the cylinder without any fuel for all that distance.

But, after the return trip to NY........about 675 miles.......all was well again.

Damned if I can explain it............

I can't explain why it disappears either.

The issue is how bad the nailing you describe really is; if it is only a nosiy/clacking idle it will probably go away with time and may disappear faster if you do a DP.

If it sounds like an angry dwarf is in there with a large hammer trying to bust thru your block you should have it looked at soonest.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)