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  #1  
Old 07-18-2007, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WINGAS View Post
Jimmy, I have found it MUCH easier in most engine pulls I;ve done to unbolt the tranny and pull it off the converter before you pull the engine.
This is a standard tranny. I'm leaving tranny in place purely out of fear of bleeding the clutch!
Haven't I read on here before that a cheap clutch alignment tool for Volvo's will work on these cars? Would this be something that Napa sells?
Also, thanks for the info 79300sdtd. And heck yea, pics are always welcome. Crayon is first choice, but digital is a good second choice.....
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:31 AM
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what do you want pics of?
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2007, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79300sdtd View Post
what do you want pics of?
How exactly were you able to get the engine past the AC lines? I'm not fully familiar with the W116 SD's as far as how their AC lines are routed. Looks like I will have to try and keep everything up front and low.....
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #4  
Old 07-18-2007, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
How exactly were you able to get the engine past the AC lines? I'm not fully familiar with the W116 SD's as far as how their AC lines are routed. Looks like I will have to try and keep everything up front and low.....
my lines are different than yours. mine run along the drivers side then through the fire wall. i unbolted the compressor and pulled it out of the way.

I took the rad/oil cooler assembly out, fan off the front. unbolted everything that held the trans. I only had to move the engine forward about 3 inches to get it up and out.

the engine is back in now. no one told me, or i was reluctant to ask, the bolts are different lengthwise on the 617.951. mainly the bottom two. i need bolts that are about an inch longer to bolt up down below.

i would only take the engine and trans out if i had a load leveler. i only had a steel bar in the ceiling and a comealong.

hope this all helps at least a bit
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  #5  
Old 07-18-2007, 12:41 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Haven't I read on here before that a cheap clutch alignment tool for Volvo's will work on these cars? Would this be something that Napa sells?
Actually, I found it at an AutoZone website: Motormite PN14522. It turns out that this part number is the same as the one used for aligning Chevy S10 clutches and as the tool for Mercedes-Benz manual clutches from 75-85.

You can borrow mine; it doesn't work too well but, is better than nothing.
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