1982 300D turbo

Ive been researching and found some reference to these but nothing with all together. I have shake and wobble with a knock at idle, smoothes out above 1000rpm. Knock does not get louder, gets harder to hear. More smoke than before and its light greyish. The wet injectors is a recent appearence, after a couple of tanks of ulsd. I also have a slightly rising oil level and what appears to be fuel in the oil but I'm not certain. As soon as this appeared the other day I stopped driving the car.

I am planning to replace the timing chain and adjust the valves asap.
Do I have an injector problem? I know the timing is a little off due to the chain and valves. My research didn't help with the oil/fuel issue. Could it be related to the others? Any advice for me?

Dan

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1969 220D "Berta" RIP
1982 300D turbo 250K

You may want to adjust or replace your Rack Damper bolt. Located on the rear of IP, just in front of oil canister housing. May smooth out shake, and wobble. Won't do a thing about the smoke tho. Don't know how fuel can get into oil, other than seriously degraded rings, which would probably mean MUCH smoke. You may also want to replace your fuel lines to correct the wet injectors.

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83 SD

84 CD

Your little injectro lines leaking and pulling in air @ idle?

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1989 300E 144K

You seem to have a few things going on here. Here the questions you need to answer to help those much, much more experienced than me help you out.

Did this all happen at once?

Does the engine shake when cold, or just warm?

Hows the starting?

Hows the power above 1000rpms?

Have you really just started ULSD? Most folks have been using it for at least a year now, if not two. I think at least for 6 months its been all thats available.

I have some similar symptoms, minus the wet injectors. thats probably weeping return lines - easy and cheap to replace.

You will want to verify if there is indeed fuel in your oil. I do not know how to do this, someone will have to chime in. I have heard of the fuel pump failing and fuel making its way into the oil in large quantities like you are describing.


After checking into the fuel/oil situation, the first steps are:
-check you valve clearance
-check your timing chain stretch
-check fuel and air filters
-diesel purge

And go from there. Hope this helps...
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

well, to answer your ??'s.

I've only had the car about six weeks and no other diesels in the fleet since before the intro of ULSD, so that's why its only had a couple of tanks go through the engine. Prior to my ownership the car had fuel from 2002 sitting in the tank. I got rid of that and changed all the fuel filters. Fresh ULSD followed.

Car shakes and wobbles and knocks cold and warm. Will periodically stop all of these for a second or two coming to a stop.

Plenty of power and go, impressive to me, but my last was a 220D. The engine seems to have all its supposed to, powerwise. Accelerating up good sized hills with four adults and a load was new to me- easily keeps 65-70+, but I'm a slow driver.

The shake, wobble, and knock came with the car- weeping injectors/fuel lines is within the last few days.

I will get a second opinion on the fuel/oil issue tomorrow.

I will gather the timing chain/valve adjustment parts and tools in anticipation of pulling off the valve cover for a look see and measurements. I'm certain it will need both but I've been wrong before- but better to do it all at once while the cover is off if need be...at 226+K its due, and no record of the chain having ever been changed...

Dan

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1969 220D "Berta" RIP
1982 300D turbo 250K

That makes some more sense. Verify that the fuel isn't in the oil and report back. After that, I stand by my earlier suggestions.

The timing chain has no specified interval for service. As long as you measure it and it is not overly stretched or shows obvious signs of wear, its fine (search for more info on this, Im not an expert by any means). I dont think you need to leap into rolling a new one in.

Seeing as how the car has sat for so long - the valve adjust and a purge could stand to make a big improvement.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car