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My clock died - now what?
Early this morning, at 5:55 am, the clock in my '85 300D died. Are replacement movements available? I can't seem to find any - ebay has some clock/tach gauge units but they're kind of expensive.
thanks, Charlie |
Charlie somewhere here is a thread on clock repair, probably in the era of 2003. Here is one thread that may help you out
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Yup, a Richard and Stu article that's what I was thinking of.
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2$ if you have a soldering iron already...
I need one.. plus If I pull my clock out might as well repaint the needles on all the gauges.. |
Thanks! I don't wear a watch, so I really do need a clock. This will give me the extra incentive I need to remove the IP to fix the odometer too - I think diesel giant has a nice tutorial on that one. His IP removal step is a little different though.
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Paint your needles and replace bulbs while you are in there.
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While your cluster is out, take the time to clean the light tunnels with a q-tip and put silver tape over them to seal any light leaks. It is surprising how much brighter my dash lights are since I did that myself along with new but same wattage bulbs. Maybe lube your speedo cable too.
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Did you verify the fuse is not simply corroded? My 1981 300CD clock kept perfect time up until I sold it. Check all the fuses before doing anything else!!
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Capacitors
The clock in my '87 was DOA. I pulled it and replaced two electrolytic capacitors. They are $1 each at Radio Shack, I paid less at a surplus store. The clock works great -- fixed in April, still running accurately today.
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Quote:
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My clock stops working in the winter, say below 32f, but works fine all spring, summer and fall.
go figure? I have a digital clock on my aftermarket stereo. |
The clock in my '77 240D still works well after 30 years. NEVER touched it...keeps good time.
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1 Attachment(s)
Follow up:
Pulled cluster, removed old capacitors. One was bulging at the bottom. Like an idiot, I took the new capacitors and trimmed the excess wire before soldering in....so there was no way to tell which was ground and which was power. The body of the capacitor wasn't labeled of course. I figured I'd just wire them in and test it...sure enough it is working right now. Is there any danger to anything if I wired them backwards, or would it just not work? Also - while pulling gauge cluster, came across a switch in the upper left hand corner of the big gaping hole, behind where the fuel gauge would be. It looks like a simple spring loaded pressure switch, like for a door jamb/overhead light setup. Does anyone have a clue what this is for? I attach a slightly blurry picture - |
Electrolytics are finicky things, chances are if it's working you got them in right. They typically barf or just don't work if theyre sdrawkcab.
Interesting little switch...I have no clue... |
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