GP replacement questions - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

siral3x · #1 10-02-2007, 02:02 AM

1.On the OM617 turbo do you have to remove the fuel lines to get to the GPs?? or you can change them without removing the fuel lines to the inj?
2. What is the torque the GP should be tighthen?
thx in advance

#2 10-02-2007, 04:16 AM

1: No. Even I can fit my bear claws between the injection lines to remove/install all 5.
2: German torque, Guten Tight. Get them snug but don't put your weight into it.

toomany MBZ · #3 10-02-2007, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

1: No. Even I can fit my bear claws between the injection lines to remove/install all 5.
2: German torque, Guten Tight. Get them snug but don't put your weight into it.

Ditto.

vstech · #4 10-02-2007, 10:52 AM

it is easiest if you have a 10mm gearwrench... the gearsockets work well too.

Stevo · #5 10-02-2007, 11:25 AM

You definitely dont have too remove the hard lines but I do because I find it quicker and easier, epically if I'm going too replace all the GPs.

Brian Carlton · #6 10-02-2007, 12:03 PM

I agree with Stevo.

If you're going to replace more than one...........removing the lines takes 5 minutes.

Additionally, if you're doing #4 or #5, I'd strongly suggest removing the lines............if you drop the retaining nut, you'll wish you had followed this advice.

siral3x · #7 10-02-2007, 09:39 PM

After 3h without removing the lines I finally did it. The 4th one was the pain..ohh real pain.
I got Autolite GP because that was the only thing they had in stock, and I couldn't wait around for another day off.
My problem didn't got fixed tough.
1. I checked 3 times all the resistance and voltage for the gp relay, wires, and GPs itself.
Everything works great, engine starts up fine, BUT still NO GP light. It won't turn on.
2.As the engine starts up I still get tons of black smoke, engine runs rough and vibrates!
I'm completely lost now, I was hoping new GPs did the trick. I even tested the new GPs just for the sake of it.
3.After the water temp gauge reaches 80 then the engine stops sputtering and no more vibration, everything runs like it should??what the heck? I turn the car off, let it sit 10 min, starts back up...no sputtering runs fine. 2h latter doesn't!
What should I be cheking into next??

siral3x · #8 10-02-2007, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

it is easiest if you have a 10mm gearwrench... the gearsockets work well too.

10mm gearwrench didn't work...it's 8mm for the nut and 12mm for the GP itself

Saving $20 on gearwrenches put me 2h behind...ohh well

VW1300 · #9 10-02-2007, 09:55 PM

Did you take the throttle linkage apart? I ask because I have to do my #4 as well and it looks like it would be easier without all that shrubbery in the way.

Magoo · #10 10-02-2007, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by siral3x

1. I checked 3 times all the resistance and voltage for the gp relay, wires, and GPs itself.
Everything works great, engine starts up fine, BUT still NO GP light. It won't turn on.
2.As the engine starts up I still get tons of black smoke, engine runs rough and vibrates!
I'm completely lost now, I was hoping new GPs did the trick. I even tested the new GPs just for the sake of it.
3.After the water temp gauge reaches 80 then the engine stops sputtering and no more vibration, everything runs like it should??what the heck? I turn the car off, let it sit 10 min, starts back up...no sputtering runs fine. 2h latter doesn't!
What should I be cheking into next??

Do you hear the GP relay working? Should be an audible click on pick up and drop out.
When you checked the relay, wires, and GP's, did the GP's have voltage when the relay was engaged? How much? How long did you let them glow prior to starting?
How long does the smoke continue? Until 80C also? Even without the GPs working it should smooth out and stop smoking within a few minutes.

siral3x · #11 10-02-2007, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VW1300

Did you take the throttle linkage apart? I ask because I have to do my #4 as well and it looks like it would be easier without all that shrubbery in the way.

No I didn't, but I strongly recomend doing it. I was to pissed and I didn't want to break it

BUT YES take the linkage off!

siral3x · #12 10-02-2007, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magoo

Do you hear the GP relay working? Should be an audible click on pick up and drop out.
When you checked the relay, wires, and GP's, did the GP's have voltage when the relay was engaged? How much? How long did you let them glow prior to starting?
How long does the smoke continue? Until 80C also? Even without the GPs working it should smooth out and stop smoking within a few minutes.

1.Yes I did hear the GP relay working.
2.the pins on the relay showed bat voltage 12.50, the GP showed 10ish+;
3.I let them glow about 30 to 40 sec;
4.Smoke goes away a little at a time..but it vanishes at 80C;

siral3x · #13 10-03-2007, 11:44 AM

Anybody????Any other ideas?? what to do next?

rrgrassi · #14 10-03-2007, 11:55 AM

Valve adjustment done lately? (Smoking issue)

Also be prepared to replace GP's again, as Autolite is prone to quick failure.

Did you ream out the GP holes?

Have you checked the GP indicater bulb to make sure it did not burn out?

Leave your door open and watch the dome light. See if it dims when you energize the GP system. If it does not dim, check the 80 amp strip fuse in the relay, and check the relay itself.

siral3x · #15 10-03-2007, 12:13 PM

-No clue on valve adjustment; My uncle never did it in 2 years;
-Didn't ream out the GP holes;
-the bulb is good;
-fuse is good; relay is good; voltage at all GPs reads 10.5V when relay kicks in and 11ish when it kicks out;