Thanks guys...I'm feeling better about replacing the starter, if I need to.

Also, send me a private message, you with the station wagon, and include a picture if you have one. I just might have a buyer for you.

Get this: The wires running to the alternator (and also connecting to the starter...hmmm) have been split and a fuse run between each of the two major wires. Why the hell would there be a fuse in there. According to my wiring diagram, the alternator doesn't have a fuse. I'm considering taking out the fuses (as the wires to one have almost completely split off) and connecting the wires back together without the fuses in the middle. Any good reason I shouldn't do this???

Thanks, D

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1976 300D 217k...an old car needin some love. (GONE OFF TO RUSTY CAR HEAVEN)

1982 240D probably something like 190,000 miles...was Old Yeller, but I changed the name to Buttercup

The car came factory properly fused, so long as nobody has altered the actual wiring from it's origional form, it shouldn't hurt. The question is, why were they put there to begin with?...was it melting wires or were they just trying to isolate a problem? Of the heavy wires, one should be for the charge going back to the battery, and the other I believe is the main feed to the ignition switch. The battery drain could also be bad diodes inside your alternator.

FYI I too have an 82.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

first, an easy check for the draining battery issues is a simple fuse check. place a multimeter on the battery and note the draw, then pull one fuse at a time and recheck the draw. If there is an open circuit thats causing the battery to drain, then this may show you which circuit it is.

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1980 300D

If you replace the starter, put a turbo 300d starter in there... more starting power and bolts right in. I did this on my 220d... the replacement was easy... pulling the starter off a junked 300dt wasn't ;-).

If you have a local pick and pull, I think the starters are easier to pull from a 300sd (w126) than a 300d (w123).

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1985 MBZ 300DT
1969 MBZ 220d
1984 MBZ 300TDT
1981 VW Vanagon

[quote=pdxwaker;1641285]If you replace the starter, put a turbo 300d starter in there... more starting power and bolts right in. Agreed.
If you have a local pick and pull, I think the starters are easier to pull from a 300sd (w126) than a 300d (w123). I doubt it. The major components are the same under hood, except for the turbo on early 300 D's.[quote]
All SD's are turbo charged, not all D's. The turbo is the biggest obstacle in removal. The starter is "easily" removed from underhood on non turbos, must be removed from underneath on turbos.

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83 SD

84 CD

On a W123 300D it can be removed from above just fine if you remove the air cleaner/heat shield/and battery and battery tray. You only need to go underneath to disconnect the wires and undo the bolts.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I want to pull out my 300CD turbo starter and have a look. The yolk is staying out (cold/greasy). And I want to clean it up.

I have the special tool.



Am I up against anything out of the ordinary, Also, I cant find the procedure in the service manual library.

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.