New Owner needs help plz
 

Hello all and thank you for all of your help with my cold starting problems "GLOW PLUGS" are needed for cold starting!!! I absolutely love my 1980 300D Benz!

Now I have a couple of other questions:

1). I have no heat at all I turn the dial and it does nothing. A/C Blows snowball's

2.) No dash Lights

3.) No speedometer, new cable and still not working.

4.) rear defroster only defrost 1 line in the rear window.

Any help you can give me I would really appreciate

Thank you,
Lind

Regarding the dash lights, I had a similar problem. I recommend removing the cluster and then remove the potentiometer (spelling?) and just jumpering the two posts left. Also unscrew the cluster components and check the copper strip circuitry to make sure none of it is burnt. This DIY should give you some guidance on cluster removal, the potentiometer is the white odd shaped box on the lower right of the black center speedometer. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124InstCluster

Glad you love your Benz
 

But they do have needs. And when you get a Benz that is fast approaching it's 30th birthday, they can have many needs. Fortunately you have found a good forum to help you through some of these problems. I would really recommend Lind, that you go through the DIY section, (Do it yourself) and see what might have been published regarding your problems. Some have more then one potential answer, and some parts just wear out through use or miss-use, like your rear window defroster and will probably need replacement. The search feature at the top of the page can bring you many good answers. As you can see, there are only so many people reading this forum at any given time, but over the years thousands of questions have been asked and answered, and though a few have been lost, almost all are there just waiting for a new owner of an older Benz to come along and ask again. In your first question you refer to the climate control not giving any heat, but a heck of a lot of cold air. Are you looking for heat and air. The second and third problem regard the speedometer and dash lights. I know that both of these problems are well covered in the archives. Check them out, they are easy to find. As far as I know, there is no easy repair for the rear window defroster. With one wire heating, I would suspect some one has damaged it pretty badly and it will probably have to be replaced to work correctly.

*1) I'm afraid you need to do a search on Evil Servo. Sounds like you will need to bypass the servo in favor of a manual valve for coolant flow. Try the search feature above, Google version with "servo bypass" or something similar.

*2) Solder a jumper wire between the two strips of the rheostat. Search that also. To get cluster out remove kick panel above driver's knees and push cluster out from behind. You will have to push in some slack on the speedo cable at the firewall side. Rheostat is white ceramic squarish piece on back.

*3) Hmmmm. Usually a new cable takes care of this. Did you verify that both sides of the cable had the correct ends for your configuration? I think in an '80 that the tranny end is flat and slotted and the speedo end is smaller and square. It is common for the odometer to slip, but speedo is less common.

*4) Too expensive to repair really, unless you want to spring to have a new rear glass installed.

#4- got glass coverage? maybe some kids were playing baseball across the street......

You can lay a new defroster grid over the one in your car -

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002923/p-2002923/N-111+10201+600002300/c-10101

Sixto
87 300D

Thank you all for the responses I have looked and searched through alot of post here which is why I asked the questions I have no problem removing the cluster Im getting to be a pro at it it seems. :> My problem is that I have the oil pressure line connected to it and I read in one of the posts to be very careful but could not find an easy way to remove it without looking like a grease monkey or worse getting it all over my car. :<.
and I have no clue what a servo looks like, I keep looking under the hood but there are no labels. ROFL to tell me what I am Looking at. anyone got a picture? of this EVIL SERVO I am supposed to find?

Sorry guys my daughter is telling me Im retarded. What do you expect from a girl eh?


Thanks, everyone

“4.) rear defroster only defrost 1 line in the rear window. “

This comment tells me that your rear defroster is working but what has probably happened is something scraped across the conducting grid/s causing a break in the circuit (open circuit). Take a really good look at the grids on the window and see if you can see where it is scratched through. If you can find where it is scratched someone (I believe it is Permatex) makes kit that is basically a tiny jar of copper conductive paint with a brush and a cardboard stencil with to make lines (like the lines on the defroster grid). You essentially paint on and restore (close) the circuit. I bought some several months ago from a privately owned auto parts store as when I explained it to the AutoZone and Kragen folks they just scratched their heads. Meaning you might have to look around for it a little. I no longer have the card/bubble pack it came in but I am 90% sure it was made by Permatex.
I believe it cost aroud $8.
I did a search= Permatex 15067 Quick Grid Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit
To view the pic: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ

well guys I think I have found the servo but not sure. also there is a black cover on the drivers side with what looks like relays under it and a inline fuse but there is no fuse in it and regular glass fuses do not fit and the euro fuses do not fit. does anyone know what it is and/or what it is for? I can take a picture if needed.
thanks. I have read somewhere that someone referred to it as a Sugar fuse?

Honestly, if you want - just replace the potentiometer/rheostat. Yes, it's an expensive part, but it takes 20 minutes to do (start to finish) with the majority of your time spent getting that darn speedometer cable re-attached.

It may be just me, but there is something better about fixing something right, and not mickey-mousing it for the short term. That's just me - I can see why people just jump the two terminals of the rheostat; it's an expensive part!

Anyhow, that's my two cents on that. Don't let someone tell you to use wire hangers or tools to pull out the instrument cluster from the front, either. That's on a W126/124. Just push it out from the bottom.

Also, use caution when removing the oil pressure gauge/sensor line from the back of the gauge cluster when you're removing the cluster. Use two wrenches - a 10mm and a 13mm, I believe.

odd thing is... the problems im having are just about the same as yours! rear defroster & dash lights. i need to get on this...

Have you tried fuses that look like this -

http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/P200973820OES.JPG

(image from FastLane)

Sixto
87 300D

How often do you turn your working rheostat off of full bright??? :D:D

Haven't yet!

Sorry man, OCD-like tendencies strike again. I can't have a mickey-moused jumper wire in my rheostat, it has to be PERFECT! :)

I have tons of those fuses and also tried the old glass fuses none of them will fit in there. I can not find anyone that knows what it is. this friend of mine wants me to take it to the Mercedes shop and have them fix it. Ok so I drive a Mercedes that doesn't mean I have a ton of money to pay someone for something I can try and figure out for myself. :smartass2
But I do Love my car it is Awesome OH does anyone have a passenger side Sunroof rail they are getting rid of? Mine is GONE I have what I call a Double sunroof.:D guess Im special!:P Naaaw just means Who ever drives with me on a rainy day gets the bonus ride of a Shower

You have the Type II ACC system in your car. It was made with the Chrysler servo, a real PITA.
There was a vacuum harness that ran off the servo, under the battery tray and into the vehicle. If the battery leaks, acid will end up in the harness and fumes do their thing to vacuum pods controlling central locking, ACC and engine shut off.
In most cases the servo fails and the end result is no heat.
Do a search for Type II ACC, there have been extensive articles written in this forum about this subject.


OR....if somebody knows how to contact George Murphy, he has written articles for STAR magazine how to repair Type II and Type III ACC.

Ok I broke down and went to a benz repair shop and of course the only thing they would tell me without charging me $65.00 an hour was that my heater valve was broken and that they would have to bring up the wiring diragram for the fuse/sensor that is empty and it is located by the AC relays sheesh Do i look like i walk around with $$$$ falling out of my A$$?????

Can comeone tell me if the little pipe is suppose to be *Closed* a water hose from the heater Valve goes to it but we took it off and either it is Very corroded or it is suppose to be closed can someone let me know?

thanks

Clarify what you mean by a little closed pipe.

George Murphy's phone number can be found in a number of posts on this forum.

It could easily be your servo. Start looking for a used one or start saving $$. There's an aftermarket computerized replacement that runs around $600. Performance Products sells it.
New servos are priced at $1600 at Performance (I think). Rebuilts are available. Perhaps from George Murphy.
Typically the original servos crack their plastic bodies and leak.

Ooops the picture hadn't opened for me. Where does that come from? I don't recognize it.

in the picture the bigger pipes are for the heater hoses and then the smaller one connects to my heater valve and it is sealed shut or corroded not sure if it suppose to be sealed or not.

I tried to circle the little one in red but you can barely see it.

Where on the car are these pipes located? I don't recognize them as the kind of configuration associated with the servo cars.
Does your car have manual climate control or automatic climate control? Is the panel which holds the climate control buttons and wheel square or just rectangular? Do you have a blue/white/red temperature wheel?

If you take a picture of your underhood configuration we can tell if you have the servo or monovalve or manual system.

it has the wheel but no matter what the air conditioner runs when i turn it on even with the air button turned off

ok i tried to take a picture the one with the copper tubing spliced in is where the heater valve was because it was leaking. if you look towards the firewall thats where the other pipe is. also I took a picture of the EVIL servo at least i think thats what it is. let me know please.



heres a picture of my $600.00 300D 123/130

I don't think that line should be sealed. I will look on my 78 tonight and see, but I doubt it.

Ok after trying to fix the heat I have figured out that when ever i push the buttons on the climate control the Air conditioner runs no matter what setting it is on. Any ideas where I should start to look for this?

Still cold but at least im still in FLA and not NC yet... :>