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View Poll Results: What to do with the 1992 300D??
Sell it...and get a more suitable tow vehicle! 2 20.00%
Sell it...and put a hitch on the 1999 E300td! 0 0%
Keep it...and run it into the ground! 0 0%
Keep it...and fix the differential already! 8 80.00%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 02-03-2008, 03:49 PM
jotunheim's Avatar
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1992 300D 2.5: Keep or sell?

After acquiring a 1999 E300TD, I now have 2 diesel cars. This in itself is not a problem, especially since I like to do my own work where possible, and allows me to keep one car tied up for more involved repair work.

The problem is the 1992 has a bad read differential, with an estimated cost to repair somewhere between $2800 and $3500, depending on who does the work. The noise coming from back has been stable for over a year and more of just a loud annoyance. The car has already had a lot of work done to it, including the typical AC/evaporator rebuild and a much upgraded sound system, and has no other major deferred maintenance. BUT, in the last few years, there are 3 noticeable spots of rust on the '92; a 2 inch scab on the upper part of the driver's side A-pillar, and a much smaller spot above the windshield and on the passenger door.

I would probably make the investment on the rear end, but with the rust, I am thinking it is not worth it anymore. The 1992 does have a trailer hitch, which I need for a utility trailer (and am not keen on putting one on the 1999), so I would need to get something else to tow with, which would typically be 2000 lbs. or less. I am considering getting an older, 1997-1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5, as it would be a much better tow vehicle, offer good reliability and keep the E300 in the garage for the sloppy, winter days. Opinions?

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  #2  
Old 02-03-2008, 04:18 PM
2.5Turbo's Avatar
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If the bad diff is the only thing making you sell it, I would go to a pick-and-pull and see if a used diff could be scrounged up for cheap. MB diffs hardly ever go bad, so chances are one you find at a pick-and-pull will be good. The 124 2.5T is a great car, as you probably already know...good fuel economy, decent power, and the solid 124 chassis. With that mileage I would also consider having the rust repaired. A number of people on this forum have 2.5T's that have gone double the miles without opening the engine...so yours has a good amount of life left in it.

That sounds like quite a lot for a rear diff replacement...but you're probably dealing with new parts there and I would bet a new MB diff isn't cheap.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2008, 06:52 PM
Monomer's Avatar
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mine has 421K



KEEP IT!



find a good used and do it yourself
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2008, 11:17 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 142
your 92 300D 2.5 turbo

Hi, you mention that you have a trailer hitch on this car. I know in Germany many MBs have a hitch as a factory option. Looking at installing one on my
W124 and wondering which make you and how easy the installation was.
TIA for some info

TE=jotunheim;1751776]After acquiring a 1999 E300TD, I now have 2 diesel cars. This in itself is not a problem, especially since I like to do my own work where possible, and allows me to keep one car tied up for more involved repair work.

The problem is the 1992 has a bad read differential, with an estimated cost to repair somewhere between $2800 and $3500, depending on who does the work. The noise coming from back has been stable for over a year and more of just a loud annoyance. The car has already had a lot of work done to it, including the typical AC/evaporator rebuild and a much upgraded sound system, and has no other major deferred maintenance. BUT, in the last few years, there are 3 noticeable spots of rust on the '92; a 2 inch scab on the upper part of the driver's side A-pillar, and a much smaller spot above the windshield and on the passenger door.

I would probably make the investment on the rear end, but with the rust, I am thinking it is not worth it anymore. The 1992 does have a trailer hitch, which I need for a utility trailer (and am not keen on putting one on the 1999), so I would need to get something else to tow with, which would typically be 2000 lbs. or less. I am considering getting an older, 1997-1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5, as it would be a much better tow vehicle, offer good reliability and keep the E300 in the garage for the sloppy, winter days. Opinions?[/QUOTE]
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  #5  
Old 02-04-2008, 05:57 AM
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If you do decide to see, I may be interested. Do you have a price in mind?
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2008, 09:51 AM
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You're getting ripped off.... I replaced mine awhile ago. $75.00 for a salvged one with 120,000mi on it (they ranged between $100 - $200). Another $25.00 to have it sent from NC and $100.00 to have it swapped by INDY (which is an easy DIY) and another 12.00 for amsoil gear oil....$212.00 done, barely got my hands dirty.
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Last edited by pmari; 02-06-2008 at 11:36 AM.
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  #7  
Old 02-04-2008, 09:18 PM
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Wow

pmari: That's amazing! ...and changes everything, if I can find a used differential w/ the ASD, which was always the problem. We have a really good independent here in Milwaukee (Black Forest), and he has checked everywhere (including, ahem, Adsit) for one with no luck.

Fastline Phil quoted me a rebuilt and it was somewhere around $2400, so I tacked on a few hundred dollars for install. The dealer quoted $3500 for the entire job...no thanks .

So, I guess I should be patient and one will show up. Thanks for the info!

diesel friend: The local Uhaul in St. Cloud, MN put mine on...good quality but expensive. I think it was about $250 installed.
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:43 PM
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I want one... as soon as I get a bit more stable with the cars I have, and the finances I don't, I will be getting a 2.5T THAT would be a car for the DW to drive... IF you decide to let the car go, give me a chance to get it.
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2008, 10:59 PM
Unofficial wormcan opener
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmari View Post
You're getting ripped off.... I replaced mine awhile ago. $75.00 for a salvged one with 120,000mi on it (they ranged between $100 - $200). Another $25.00 to have it sent from NC and $100.00 to have it swapped by INDY (which is an easy DIY) and another 12.00 for asmoil gear oil....$212.00 done, barely got my hands dirty.
With or without ASD? I thought ASD was hard to find as most cars didn't come with it.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2008, 11:35 AM
pmari's Avatar
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Mine has no ASD. I recall there being at least one with ASD (at that time).
Do a google search for salvaged car parts, then do a parts request from a few different services. Here's another tip, find out where the part is located once one is found. Then look up the specific bone yard and call them direct, you'll save the jobbers fee from the service.

Update: just called my local buddy in the boneyard, He said he found one for $300.00, let me know if want his phone number and you can call him directly.
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1999 E300DT (131,800) 154,000 Black on Black SOLD

2006 CLK 500 coupe Capri Blue on Grey (zoom,zoom)
47,000mi

04 VW TDI Passat 80,000mi
(Techno)

How to eliminate oil dependency through market-driven approaches.
“We could cut oil use in half by 2025, and by 2040, oil use could be zero,”

The Sound of Diesel Speed
Ode to MB

Last edited by pmari; 02-06-2008 at 12:06 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2008, 10:27 PM
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pmari: IM sent...thanks for the info!
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2008, 11:32 PM
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It seems to me she's a good, but rusty workhorse. Keeping it for the sloppy days and towing is well worth changing the dif. 97-99 Toyota 4 Runners are way too expensive, imo, and are rarely taken care of properly.

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